ugh, again with 1g clutch engagement

[93AWDDSM]

I have replaced my 1g pedal assembly, new master cylinder, new slave and the master cylinder rod is adjusted on almost the last thread. I tested to see if I still had drag and did 1st gear and at like 6700 rpm it lurched forward.

How much threads should I have left to adjust on the Master cylinder? many? none? alot?

stuff I have yet to check, clutch fork position, if its leaning towards passenger side ill drop the tranny and inspect pivot ball and shim if necessary.

what other major things could be causing drag? worn pivot ball? old TOB?
almost looking at getting the extended slave rod so I can shift

 

[dsmcurse]

I absolutley promise you that your gonna have to pull the tranny and you'll find one out of the two "tips" of the fork to be broken off or bent. Look at how its twisted in relation to the slave rod

 

[93AWDDSM]

I absolutley promise you that your gonna have to pull the tranny and you'll find one out of the two "tips" of the fork to be broken off or bent. Look at how its twisted in relation to the slave rod

what are you talking about? if you are referring to that old picture. I just replaced my clutch/resurfaced flywheel, new transmission all within 1200 miles(had slave and master replaced like 5 months ago, but the master is leaking I guess)

 

[Boostdriven]

What he is talking about is what we recently had to do to his car. After replacing a new master and slave cylinders on his car we couldn't do anything to get the clutch to release properly. So after doing some detailed inspections I noticed that the fork didn't sit 100% square to the slave cylinder shaft. All said and done it turned out that one of the fork ends was broke off. The interesting thing was that the fork still appeared to be functional because only about a ½ inch broke off and the stubby end of the fork was still able to push on the TOB.

The fact that you have the pivot ball shimmed don't make any difference, you still get the same travel out of the slave cylinder. The only way you can have a problem with the position of a slave cylinder is if it was pushed out to far to begin with and in that case when you pressed on the clutch the piston would pop out of the cylinder. Very rarely does this happen and if it did I would say either the fork is severely bent or the pressure plate is broke. Good thing that's not you're case. If you shim the pivot ball you can only push that slave cylinder in so far and then it will bottom out. Looking at the picture that you have posted it looks like the fork is not square to the shaft. If you grab the end of the fork and try to more it up and down left to right it should feel snug all the way around. If you feel the end of it move up and down more than 1/8th of an inch then you might have the same problem. Also when you push the fork left to right if will have a very slight role, it's not much but if you look closely you can see it. Not saying that it's your case but it might be worth looking in to.

 

[93AWDDSM]

What he is talking about is what we recently had to do to his car. After replacing a new master and slave cylinders on his car we couldn’t do anything to get the clutch to release properly. So after doing some detailed inspections I noticed that the fork didn’t sit 100% square to the slave cylinder shaft. All said and done it turned out that one of the fork ends was broke off. The interesting thing was that the fork still appeared to be functional because only about a ½ inch broke off and the stubby end of the fork was still able to push on the TOB.

The fact that you have the pivot ball shimmed don’t make any difference, you still get the same travel out of the slave cylinder. The only way you can have a problem with the position of a slave cylinder is if it was pushed out to far to begin with and in that case when you pressed on the clutch the piston would pop out of the cylinder. Very rarely does this happen and if it did I would say either the fork is severely bent or the pressure plate is broke. Good thing that’s not you’re case. If you shim the pivot ball you can only push that slave cylinder in so far and then it will bottom out. Looking at the picture that you have posted it looks like the fork is not square to the shaft. If you grab the end of the fork and try to more it up and down left to right it should feel snug all the way around. If you feel the end of it move up and down more than 1/8th of an inch then you might have the same problem. Also when you push the fork left to right if will have a very slight role, it’s not much but if you look closely you can see it. Not saying that it’s your case but it might be worth looking in to.

that picture was from March 2013 before

I replaced everything new last month, transmission, clutch fork, pivot ball, oem TOB, clutch kit, flywheel resurfaced to spec.

and everything is good, shifts good, no grinds, no drag all way past 7300 rpm.

-problem is that the clutch pedal feels slightly sticking after its depressed and trying to return to normal position as well as it slightly looses pressure in higher RPM. I'm going to assume that is because of the leaky master sucking air in while clutch is pushed in/returned to normal position..
-slave is good no leaks

 

[killercolt]

If you take the clutch master cylinder out, make sure to make an extension for the push rod. Add about 1/2-3-4" and you will be fine. You can get a cheap 2g clutch master cylinder and hijack the push rod for your 1g master cylinder. I like the 2g push rod option because a generic 2g clutch master cylinder is pretty cheap. If your clutch pedal fells spongy or your clutch will not release correctly in your 1g, this is likely your solution.

As far as the shim for the pivot ball goes, I believe it is a waste of time. If you insist, put one the thickness of a head bolt washer behind it.

If you are using an ACT clutch, make sure you check the pressure plate diaphram. I bought a new ACT 2600 that had a broken diaphram. I did not fine out until I got it into the car and the car did not want to go into gear. Luckily I do my own work or would be stuck with a big shop bill.

 

[93AWDDSM]

I have a stock exedy clutch/PP with OEM flywheel resurfaced and everything is good except that the pedal sometimes feels slight sticky towards the bottom

top of pedal
-
-
-engagement
-slow return
-slow return
-
-sticky
bottom by floor

** fixing the master should help with the pedal feel and slow return correct? I told english racing I wanted them to put OEM slave/master and they just were like "no its ok we just use aftermarket slave/master"........ 4 months later and the master is leaking damn it.

 

[T is for TURBO]

that picture was from March 2013 before

I replaced everything new last month, transmission, clutch fork, pivot ball, oem TOB, clutch kit, flywheel resurfaced to spec.

and everything is good, shifts good, no grinds, no drag all way past 7300 rpm.

-problem is that the clutch pedal feels slightly sticking after its depressed and trying to return to normal position as well as it slightly looses pressure in higher RPM. I'm going to assume that is because of the leaky master sucking air in while clutch is pushed in/returned to normal position..
-slave is good no leaks

Since I read the whole thread...

Yes, you are correct. If there is a leak that allows fluid out, you can bet your ass that it's letting air in. Air is compressible and will cause a spongy, lazy pedal. Fix the master, and re-bleed the clutch

 

[93AWDDSM]

Since I read the whole thread...

Yes, you are correct. If there is a leak that allows fluid out, you can bet your ass that it's letting air in. Air is compressible and will cause a spongy, lazy pedal. Fix the master, and re-bleed the clutch

the bold underline part is pretty much spot on how the clutch pedal feels especially at higher rpm shifts.

-gonna start saving up for the OEM master, Ill repost back once is installed and bled.

 

[Boostdriven]

When you press the clutch in to shift in to gear, at what point from the floor would you say the clutch is starting to grab. Does it feel like as soon as your lift the paddle like 25% off the floor then it grabs or is it right about 50% from the floor? Properly adjusted master cylinder should start to grab right about 50% of the paddle travel.

About a month or so ago I replaced both master and slave on my 2G with an after market cylinders and so far it works great. The only problem I noticed with after market master cylinder is that the rod/fork assembly was about a 1/4 inch shorter then the stock one. I didn't catch that until I installed it and couldn't fully adjust the master cylinder, the rod would completely screw out of the fork, so I ended up using the stock rod/fork assembly and was able to adjust it property.

If you follow the adjusting instructions in Jack's video posted by xxNocturnalxx in post #4 and still have a problem with the clutch then its probably due to a fact that you have a leaky master cylinder in which case it should be replaced anyways. If you want an OEM master I think you can find one on eBay for a reasonable price.

Number of people seem to be having a similar problem. When you end up fixing the problem please let us know what the solution was so the next guy might have a better idea, thanks.

 

[93AWDDSM]

It did grab at about half way pedal up.

Update: master is getting progressively worse, the clutch pressure felt all over the place today. It didn't feel like it was holding consistence barely wanted to go into 5th/R and 3rd today was being slightly a pain, had to go from Gear to N and pump clutch once and into next Gear(damn aftermarket crap also I took a look and the adjustment rod was on the last thread, I definitely agree about the shorter length of the adjustment rod. the clutch is a stock exedy.....). This is my DD so I have to ride it out, going to order OEM master asap.