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Turboing my 92 nt

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dsmgearheadtune

10+ Year Contributor
73
0
Jul 27, 2008
witchita, Kansas
hey guys i ended up picking up a t3/t4 turbo, manifold, gm inline mass air flow sensor, a inter cooler, and a look alike hks bov, i was wondering if anybody knew were i could find the hook ups for the air sensor and a good place were i could get the oil lines for the turbo, and do i have to have a waste gate and what is the main purpose for them? any help is appreciated
 
I cant believe no body told this guy to read the rules and use the search feature yet..WTF
Haha, let me do it..**clears throat**Theres plenty of info on this site, it's been talked about a ga-zillion times and you need to search first.


What he means is that it fell off the back of a truck, ya know what I mean..:sneaky:

i would actually much rather you just not try and help me at all thru this build to be completely honest with you, all im doing is tring to get advice, and honest help from people that has done this before, not self centered pricks like yourself.
 
First off, good luck with your project and take it one step at a time it will be a great learning experience.

Secondly, we all have to start somewhere, no dsm wiseman just wakes up one day and knows everything there is to know about dsm's. You came to the right place for help, so take what you are offered here as top notch advice.

But please understand that this conversion is no easy task, and throwing some parts on will make it fast, etc. You need to set a goal (turbo your n/a car) gather your information (search) and go from there. The only reason you are getting comments like this is because your questions are immature for this project, no offense. There is a wealth of information on this site for what you are doing, you just have to search for it and read, and read a lot. Just jumping on here and asking these questions is bound to have this outcome.

In all honesty your turbo/manifold probably came from ebay, check ebay for pictures and compare to the one you have. Also no one in there right mind would sell a genuine t3/t4 turbo in good working condition for $100, with a manifold yet. Post up some pictures of it and we can help identify it for you.

Seems like you have a bunch of parts that will get you started, but you are still going to need some key components to get it going good.
Fuel
exhaust
tuning software
etc.

These are not parts you want to "put on later" either you gather all the parts you need and do it right and do it once, or don't put the stuff you have on until then, unless you would like to be without a car for a while (boost is contageous).

I also suggest getting a 14b.

Slapping on a big turbo on that motor isn't going to be "fast", at 10 psi your not even in the range of that turbo being efficient, a 14b at that level will be much better.

A blow off valve (BOV) is located on the intake side of your system, usually after the intercooler before the throttle body. It releases the air that is still in the system when the throttle plate shuts. (lay mans terms)

A wastegate is located on the exhaust side of your system, usually as close to the manifold collector as possible. It stays closed until a certain "boost" is achieved, it then opens and diverges exhaust gas around the turbo creating no more boost. (lay mans terms)

Please take what I say with no offense, just trying to help you along.

and thank you abaum565

your advice cleared up alot of unanswered questions, that is what i thought a bov and waste gate were, i just wanted a second opinion, I am getting a welboro 255 and i beleave 550cc injectors. ill be posting pics of my turbo and manifold 2mrw after i get home from work, as of today its alittle late and my car is actually under a tarp due to some kid decided to break into my car last night and break my window ofcourse
 
you might to build the motor up with Oem turbopistons.
I dont think your turbo will last very long man I am go through the same conversion except my setup I would like to believe is more efficiant
sorry about grammar guys I'm on my iPod
 
i took my turbo to the tuner shop here in town yesterday and they took a look at it, and they said it was in good shape, but the flange for the waste gate is a older tial 40mm 4 bolt, so im going to have to try and find a good waste gate that will fit my flange or cut mine off and weld an updated flange on, either way i wont be able to go cheat, which really doesnt bother me, i would rather spend the money and make sure its done right, im not just goin to slap it together and hope that it works right, and yes a payed only 100 for the turbo and the manifold, but i did check it out before i payed for it, and if the tuner shop here in town says that is in good condition im goin to beleave them. they very well do know what they're talking about.
 
Honestly i think your taking everyones advice as if we are trying to laugh at you. You ask for advice and everyone is saying your car wont last long with that turbo (maybe there right=O). We understand the fact that it was cheap and just a little fyi i got some cheap parts b4 that looked good and a turbo shop said my turbo was 100% fine...parts turned up bad, O ring in turbo was gone. We are just telling you that you cant take a n/t car and go get a manifold and a turbo and slap it on there and go. all we are trying to do is help you. and i agree with everyone that that turbo is a little/way to big for a starting turbo 14b turbo's are strong turbo's. btw im still a newb to all this and ive seen some of the people re-plying to you and they have posted on my threads befor too with GOOD advice and i thank god that i listend to them. Im saying you might want to also befor you go kicking everyone out of your thread saying not to help you basicly. Theres only so many wisemen dont lose em all by being mean to em. people remember pictures for later questions you might ask so be careful. sorry for grammer and spelling
 
i took my turbo to the tuner shop here in town yesterday and they took a look at it, and they said it was in good shape, but the flange for the waste gate is a older tial 40mm 4 bolt, so im going to have to try and find a good waste gate that will fit my flange or cut mine off and weld an updated flange on, either way i wont be able to go cheat, which really doesnt bother me, i would rather spend the money and make sure its done right, im not just goin to slap it together and hope that it works right, and yes a payed only 100 for the turbo and the manifold, but i did check it out before i payed for it, and if the tuner shop here in town says that is in good condition im goin to beleave them. they very well do know what they're talking about.

:thumb: Alrighty Then
 
Take pics of the turbo. its a junker it wont last long and could damage your engine when it breaks. I would say your going to need a good tunning device and a wideband so you can get the car tuned decent. I would also go with a smaller turbo for 10psi your block wont support more then 10-12 psi with the non turbo internals it will spool alittle nice then stock turbo ones beause of the 9.1 cr But the top of the piston has alot less meat and wont hold up to much. its up to you but id do it right the frist time.
 
TURBOCHAAAAARGE!!!!!!!!! Man, just look at turbo'ing your car this way:

Lets say you want to build a house. What are you gonna do first? Allocate the area, buy the property, make a basement. etc etc. What you are doing, on the other hand, is trying to move in before doing all of the above.

Research, my friend. Do some homework on your own and do some research.
 
TURBOCHAAAAARGE!!!!!!!!! Man, just look at turbo'ing your car this way:

Lets say you want to build a house. What are you gonna do first? Allocate the area, buy the property, make a basement. etc etc. What you are doing, on the other hand, is trying to move in before doing all of the above.

Research, my friend. Do some homework on your own and do some research.

im not tring to rush turbo'ing my car, i've done more and more research on it since i got the thought in my head, im first getting a 255 pump, 450 to 550 injectors, im switching the ecu's out, cams and upgraded fuel rail, and FPR. what else should i change, i know im leaving some things out.
 
do you have more air, a way to tune it, dsmlink, a wideband were not bashing you but were trying to help. do it right you can always upgrade as you go thats how i learned small things bit by bit and learning on the way. i agree a smaller 14b or 16 would be great start, youll have fun with it and enjoy it as your learning.
 
i picked up a GM mass air flow sensor, and i know a guy here in town that will tune my car, hes got all the programs. i was told also that when you switch over to the Gm mass air flow sensor that you have to get a box to hook up the pig tail from the GM sensor to the 1 g nt air sensor pig tail, if this is right, were could i pick one up at and if not then whats a good way to run it?
 
Since you are going to run a 255lph fuel pump,i would consider buying a FPR to control how much is going to the injectors,but i think 550cc is too much since you are only going to run about 7-8 psi on stock internals.turbo ecu and A/F gauge are also needed
 
i picked up a GM mass air flow sensor, and i know a guy here in town that will tune my car, hes got all the programs. i was told also that when you switch over to the Gm mass air flow sensor that you have to get a box to hook up the pig tail from the GM sensor to the 1 g nt air sensor pig tail, if this is right, were could i pick one up at and if not then whats a good way to run it?

I believe this is a maf translator.Hooks up to the Gm maf,and will run to your stock plug.
I see them sometimes on the classifieds.A whole system averages about 140 dollars(MAF+translator). Dont know the price for the translator itself
 
ebay, got mine the whole thing for a great price, cheaper than trying to make a kit, sensor maf, air filter, and the intake, oh yes and a palm pilot.
 
ok so would i need to put a knock sensor in, because if the turbo ecu will just hook right up to the n/t wiring harness then that means i should have the connection in my engine bay for a knock sensor, if im wrong correct me, but would it be wise to go ahead and put a knock sensor in?
 
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