turbo lag with out the turbo.

[99eclipse420]

That's the best way I can describe it. Turbo lag without a turbo. I have a 4g64 and when I started the car this morning, I put the car into first and attempted to go but the car didn't want to accelerate normally and a second later it would get back into normal acceleration. This happened going through all of the gears. Also i have been noticing my car kinda drags until it gets warmed all the way up. I have no mayor engine upgrades, the iacv is bad, i have a small oil leak T the oil pan gasket and a small exhaust leak before the cat. Any one have any ideas what the issue here is. The car has new oil pump, water pump, fuel pump, new belts and timing was recently done.

 

[miloolim]

So your bogging down on your acceleration? What have you tried?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Could be anything from a bad sensor, split air pipe, blocked fuel pump/filter/injectors could also do this just a few to check, has it thrown a code or even had it checked for any

 

[99eclipse420]

The only code its throwing is the code for the iacv. I run premium fuel, with regular fuel treatments and obtain boosters ( Lucas ). As of now I haven't checked anything im still at work and haven't had a chance to look at anything.

 

[miloolim]

First thing I would check is your mass and hose clamps. Might be something simple.

 

[finesse49ers]

The only code its throwing is the code for the iacv. I run premium fuel, with regular fuel treatments and obtain boosters ( Lucas ). As of now I haven't checked anything im still at work and haven't had a chance to look at anything.

Your 4G64 doesn't require premium grade gasoline and those fuel treatments and octane boosters are just another waste of money and could be part of your problem along with the mechanical issues you mentioned.

 

[Lou98GSX]

i agree you dont have to use high octane fuel on a car that doesnt rquire it . it may do more harm than good

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Intake manifold gasket? Vac leak?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I dont buy it that higher grade gas will do harm to a car that doesn't require it.

 

[TSI_93]

I dont buy it that higher grade gas will do harm to a car that doesn't require it.

The thing is that the ecu expects a certain grade of fuel, namely regular grade. It has no way to tell your using premium. Using premium in a car that doesnt need it can make it respond like a slug. I know the one time I put premium in my saturn it dogged out up everytime I went up a hill.

 

[Techmonster23]

Extended use of octane booster can leave a build-up on your plugs and foul them out. Might want to check that as well.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Extended use of octane booster can leave a build-up on your plugs and foul them out. Might want to check that as well.

It's made of toluene. Toluene is a large %in gas, mostly made of it. It wont foul anything or gum up anything it's highly evaporative. But I'm talking about premium grade, not octane booster products. There is no way it's gonna harm an engine .

 

[spoonman]

Using a higher octane gas (premium) will never have any effect on daily driving performance, especially on a NA vehicle that does not require it. It is not cleaner or "better". The higher RON rating is to reduce detonation.

Octane boosters are garbage. They add like .1 RON point per bottle. Don't not waste your money.





On to the OP problem, test your fuel pressure. Does it cut out during heavy acceleration?


Or it could be your coolant temp sensor, not the gauge sensor but the one that sends signals to the ECU.

 

[Lou98GSX]

we get tech bulletins from chrysler that says not to use high test on cars that dont need it you will have drivability problems . not saying that this may be your issue but you should eliminate this as a possibility . another thing that may cause this is a bad o2 sensor . try flooring the throttle to see if the car continues to bog or the problem goes away . the ecu doesnt look at the o2 when you floor it .

 

[WES_393]

This is a common and pretty old problem. There is a thread around here with even a wiseman or two suffering from the same issue. When the car is cold, you put your foot on the gas and nothing happens for a split second. It won't do it when it's warm whatsoever, only when the engine is bone cold.

If that's your symptoms, there is no known fix other than let the car warm up for a minute before driving.

 

[Lou98GSX]

ive seen this on cars and the o2 sensor did fix the problem . when they age they start getting a little lazy and don't respond as fast making the car run lean and bog .

 

[99eclipse420]

I thank you all for the reply's and tips. I checked all the hoses, and checked for fuel leaks, I found no cracked or damaged hoses and no leaks that I could find. What WES said is exactly what I am experiencing. New exhaust is coming in the next few weeks so I will replace the o2 sensors then, see if that helps at all. To the fuel grade and octane boosters responses. I notice nothing bad ever come of it, in fact when I use regular my mpg's go down significantly. I never have have had a bad spark plug I usually change them every 10-15k miles anyway. Too cheep not to do it all the time. I checked my plugs and I did not notice any fouling out or burn plugs. I guess I will just start changing out sensor after sensor until they are all new in hopes of fixing my problem.

 

[2gSpyder4g64]

sounds like an unpluges maf to me, if you car is wasting alot of gass too, that must be it, it happened to me once i did regular maintenance and left the maf a little bit unpluged, it was not pluged to the botom and my spyder(4g64) did the same thing , or maybe you need a new maf, also injjectores could be causing it,
a good clean should do the trick and dont use injecctor cleaner aditive haha

hope it helps and happy new year by the way

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Ive dumped 2 galons of straight toluene and a pint of xylene in my tank mixed with 92 octane. It worked wonders for det reduction. Didn't even boost oct that much by calculation only 1 ron octane point added so like 93.X octane. So you can get an idea how pathetic the octane booster bottles are, they are like 3/4
Of what i put in ( tolu, xylene) and only like 16oz. The only down side to that on a NA car would probably be drying out the fuel lines similarly to ethanol. Even then im not positive it would affect fuel lines as im running stock lines from tank to filter to rail. But back to the topic.. Lol

 

[turboglenn]

Higher octane only helps when it's needed for detonation (just to clarify) lower octane will burn faster and make more power (ever so sliughtly) when the engine isn't built with a compression ratio or such advanced timing that it requires high test gas... this is because of the way it burns and how easily it ignites... my motorcycle racing days taught me this, only run the highest octane you need to avoid detonation (now in a turbo car, the compression ratio is always changing, not the static one but the "effective one" as the compressed air is adding to the forumula) so in turbo cars more octane will always help with either more boost, or letting the engine with knock sensors advance in more timing

 

[elocneas]

Sounds like it could be a sensor.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Or clogged fuel filter

 

[Black-Out]

Higher octane only helps when it's needed for detonation (just to clarify) lower octane will burn faster and make more power (ever so sliughtly) when the engine isn't built with a compression ratio or such advanced timing that it requires high test gas... this is because of the way it burns and how easily it ignites... my motorcycle racing days taught me this, only run the highest octane you need to avoid detonation (now in a turbo car, the compression ratio is always changing, not the static one but the "effective one" as the compressed air is adding to the forumula) so in turbo cars more octane will always help with either more boost, or letting the engine with knock sensors advance in more timing

^^^ This ^^^ couple that with the way the combustion chamber is designed and it could lead to a significant drop in power output- Enough to feel the difference in the seat of your pants. although on most modern cars with fancy management systems won't be effected, earlier cars with more archaic management systems and more out dated combustion chamber designs will partially because the change in the temperature at which the fuel will ignite will also greatly effect flame front speed which in turn will effect bmep within the engine.......The shape of the combustion chamber also compounds this effect-

The older or more basic the engine is, the more likely the fuel grade being better than required will negatively effect the power delivery from the engine.

On to your car- Check the air flow sensor or map sensor, or knock sensor.....any sensor that may have an influence over ignition timing- That could be part of it- it sounds like the ignition timing is flat- meaning that it's not advancing as it should early on but it's close to where it needs to be as the revs climb towards upper limits. not sure what else to recommend to you out side that. Have you a scan tool to check actual values while driving so you can see if the computer is giving you full timing?

Will-

 

[ThunderChild]

not too mention when the car is cold, it could be adding extra fuel for warm up and setting max timing advance. so in other words, your putting in more fuel (of a higher RON rating, higher octane) so it is burning longer. if you ignite a slower burning fuel later, it will continue to burn longer, and after the piston passes a certain point in the cylinder, around 10* atdc, it is effectively wasting any burn process due to rapid expansion that combustion cannot over come.

just an idea.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Make sure your MAF is plugged in.