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Tuning question

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bjbaxter

15+ Year Contributor
115
0
Mar 19, 2006
parkesburg, Pennsylvania
Yoo Guys,

I have a 98 GST with a 1g CAS(adjustable) and I'm trying to get my timing done right. I am having a little bit of a problem because at idle my timing fluctuates anywhere from 3 degrees all the way up to 16 degrees sometimes. (doesn't matter how the CAS is turned, it always fluctuates) From what I've heard, you have to set a base time to do it the right way. Theres no grounding pigtail on my car like there were on previous models to set the basetime and I dont have DSMLink to to it either. Does anyone know of any methods to do this the right way?? I mean how ot garages and all do it if they don't have DSMLink??? Any bit of help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks:dsm:
 
You can set the timing on non 95s by pulling the fuel pump relay, unpluging the fuel pump, or disconnecting your injectors and shooting for 0-1 degree over base timing during cranking. In other words, shoot for 5-6* of timing while cranking the motor over, not while its running.
 
Yes it applies to your 98, it applies to 96-99's without the grounding port that the 95's have. Yes I have done it. I did it after my 6 bolt swap when I didnt have DSMlink. Then when I had DSMlink I grounded the timing and checked it, it was right at 5*, where it should have been.
 
well i still have the 7-bolt so i hope that works with it as well. if it does, i'll really be amazed. when you did yours, was your timing fluctuating?? mine at a idle, bounces from 3BTDC all the way to 16 sometimes. if all this is stuff that was happening to you and it worked for you, i'm definately going to do it. also, when you disconnect the fuel pump and all, i would have someone crank the car over and im trying to get it to hit 0-1 degree over base timing with my timing light up front?? if its not where i want it to be, all i have to do is fool with the 1gCAS a little to get it right?? if you can explain the whole process, like what exactly i'm doing and what tools i need to use, i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for taking the time out and helping me man, i really appreciate it.
 
well i still have the 7-bolt so i hope that works with it as well. if it does, i'll really be amazed. when you did yours, was your timing fluctuating?? mine at a idle, bounces from 3BTDC all the way to 16 sometimes. if all this is stuff that was happening to you and it worked for you, i'm definately going to do it. also, when you disconnect the fuel pump and all, i would have someone crank the car over and im trying to get it to hit 0-1 degree over base timing with my timing light up front?? if its not where i want it to be, all i have to do is fool with the 1gCAS a little to get it right?? if you can explain the whole process, like what exactly i'm doing and what tools i need to use, i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for taking the time out and helping me man, i really appreciate it.

Yes it will work for you...trust me.
When your cranking the motor over the ECU is not adjusting timing at all, thats why you can set the base timing this way. When your car is idling, your ECU is adjusting timing, which is why its bouncing all over and not letting you adjust it. When you do it the way im telling you to, it WONT bounce all over, it will stay steady the same way it would if you grounded the timing while it was idling.

Here are the steps
1. Disconnect the fuel injectors so the car wont start
2. Loosen the two nuts that hold the 1G CAS tight
3. Hook up your timing light to the number one cylinder
4. Have someone sit in the car and crank the motor over while you shoot the timing light at the crank pulley.
5. Read the timing with the light and turn the CAS forward or back(whichever needed) until you get the timing light to read 5-6* while cranking the motor over.
6. Once you have the timing set, carefully tighten the CAS nuts without moving it
7. Disconnect your timing light, reconnect your fuel injectors
8. Fire it up and be on your way :thumb:
 
Dude, you are the man!! Thank you very much for all your help with this, I was beginning to think there was no way to do it. I'm going to get that done that done this weekend and hopefully have good results. Thanks again man, if you ever need help with anything, feel free to let me know. Later
 
Dude, you are the man!! Thank you very much for all your help with this, I was beginning to think there was no way to do it. I'm going to get that done that done this weekend and hopefully have good results. Thanks again man, if you ever need help with anything, feel free to let me know. Later

Not a problem :thumb:
Let me know how it works out for you.
Oh and BTW, Bill is right about double checking the timing. I forgot that step.
 
just droppin' in to say thanks again for your help. I finally got around to doing it this weekend, and it definately worked. I was thinking all along that I was going to have to get DSMLink and all that but this is definately the key to setting the base time and getting the timing right. Thanks again man, I really appreciate all your help.:thumb::dsm:
 
just droppin' in to say thanks again for your help. I finally got around to doing it this weekend, and it definately worked. I was thinking all along that I was going to have to get DSMLink and all that but this is definately the key to setting the base time and getting the timing right. Thanks again man, I really appreciate all your help.:thumb::dsm:

Not a problem at all, I try to help out when I can :thumb:
 
Theres no grounding pigtail on my car like there were on previous models to set the basetime and I dont have DSMLink to to it either.

I also own a 98 GS-T...actually there IS a timing ground pigtail on the car (and there would have to be some way to check it)...it is on the firewall to the left of mid-way, you should see two (2) connectors(1-brown and 1-blue...IIRC) 1 would be for testing the fuel pump (put direct 12v and the pump will run) and the other is to run a lead to ground to "stabilize" the timing in order to verify the timing is within specs.
 
I also own a 98 GS-T...actually there IS a timing ground pigtail on the car (and there would have to be some way to check it)...it is on the firewall to the left of mid-way, you should see two (2) connectors(1-brown and 1-blue...IIRC) 1 would be for testing the fuel pump (put direct 12v and the pump will run) and the other is to run a lead to ground to "stabilize" the timing in order to verify the timing is within specs.

Thats news to me! I was under the impression that only the 95-96 models had the grounding plug on the firewall. Ill have to take a look next time Im in my egine bay.

I know your right about the fuel pump connector, because I used that method to empty my tank, but I never noticed the other plug you mentioned.
 
I could not find the cord for my camera last night...however, I went out and looked at the car...there is actually a blue connector that is open (for the fuel pump) and a black connector that has a "blank" connected so the connector doesn't ground itself out. The black connector is for the timing ground.
 
I could not find the cord for my camera last night...however, I went out and looked at the car...there is actually a blue connector that is open (for the fuel pump) and a black connector that has a "blank" connected so the connector doesn't ground itself out. The black connector is for the timing ground.

If you do some research on it, there is a misconception then that there is not grounding plug on the 97-99 models. I did research on it after my 6 bolt swap and all I could find is that the only way to ground the timing on the 97-99 models is with dsmlink.

Im def gonna look next time im in my engine bay.
 
If you look in the manual it states for the 97-99 that "you do not have to check the timing with a timing light since it is set "electronically" by the ECU" and of course during the install of the timing belt assembly.

I actually stumbled upon it when my fuel pump went out in 2000. During the "check" phase I found the blue connector as a test for the pump. Bundled with it was the black connector. If you're not paying close attention it could be mistaken for an ordinary "wire connection" joint as it has both male and female connectors, just one side is "blanked off" so it doesn't accidentally ground itself out.

I'll see if I can find my camera cord for a visual.
 
i've seen the black connector that you are talking about but someone told me it was for the tach or some bull$hit. i've asked a few people on here too and everyone says the same thing, the only way to ground timing is to use DSMLink, or do as "Spoolin" said and unhook the injectors. If that plug actually works, ill be pissed, cause it took me forever to even get help with the injector trick. if that definately works, you need to do a big write-up, because every person on here says, as spoolin already stated, that theres no grounding port for 96-99 DSMs.
 
i've seen the black connector that you are talking about but someone told me it was for the tach or some bull$hit. i've asked a few people on here too and everyone says the same thing, the only way to ground timing is to use DSMLink, or do as "Spoolin" said and unhook the injectors. If that plug actually works, ill be pissed, cause it took me forever to even get help with the injector trick. if that definately works, you need to do a big write-up, because every person on here says, as spoolin already stated, that theres no grounding port for 96-99 DSMs.

I did a ton of research on here and other forums too, and I came up with the same info.
 
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