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2G Tuning options

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Mugsy

15+ Year Contributor
89
0
Nov 16, 2003
Getting back into dsm's and alot has changed since I last setup my old laser. I now have a 2g eclipse with s-afc, my old school one. Question is what would be the best combo for tuning, if I get dsm link I'm assuming I would also need a wideband. Currently it look like I should probably get evoscan and a wideband with my s-afc.

Current mods are full 3"exhaust, boost cont, safc, fmic. Will be getting 650cc injectors with evo16 and fuel pump shortly.
 
the wideband is a necessity for any car you plan on making modifications too... EVOscan is much cheaper than link, and from what I've found so far, it works fine. i haven't found anything i need that it can't do yet.

my car also came with a SAFC, and i opted to get rid of it, and just use EVOscan
 
When you remove the s-afc make really sure the wiring is back to factory. I've seen far too many s-afc installs that looked like my 5-year old did it, if yours is installed like that take the time to make things correct before going further, it will save you massive headaches down the road.
 
When you remove the s-afc make really sure the wiring is back to factory. I've seen far too many s-afc installs that looked like my 5-year old did it, if yours is installed like that take the time to make things correct before going further, it will save you massive headaches down the road.

oh yea, ill make sure its back to factory before its running again. in the mean time, i just cut all the wires because it needed to be shipped out. and the car isn't running. LOL
 
^ or when the previous owner installs 2 SAFCs into your car. Solder the wires and fix it good! Bad wiring sucks!

all i know, is that i will never be buying a previously modified car again... unless i spend hour upon hour checking EVERYTHING.
 
Many people use those shitty fuse piggy backers when installing things like AFC's. When I got my 95' it had recently had an S-AFC cut out of it leaving a big mess. The power windows, chimes, and some other things wouldn't work and I had traced everything back to a single circuit. Sadly, this was pointing to the etacs as being the problem. After a couple days I figured out what was going on, the fuse piggy back things that had been removed bent the fuse holder blades outward. This outward bent fuse holder was causing only the powered side to be physically connected, when you probed with a multimeter it all looked good but in reality power wasn't getting to the etacs because the load side of the fuse blade was just floating inside the female holder.

I wasted HOURS and almost wasted getting a used etacs because of a damn fuse holder that was damaged from the damn S-AFC.

I should write a tech note about this finding but I'm not sure where to put that information on this forum.
 
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