ECMlink Tuning n00b looking for problems

[Shaggy_357]

I have a VERY rudimentary understanding of tuning so I'm here to get my learn on . I see greater than 3 degrees of knock at around 2k rpm and am trying to square that away. So I guess the basic questions are: Are my idle settings OK and what might be causing the knock to appear so early and then disappear as I get into the throttle. TIA.

I've included a log of a bit of cruising and idling down in the garage.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Eric

Edit: My wideband twitches between ~13.9-15.9 at idle, is this relatively normal? And by twitch, I mean it varies between those values as the idle stumbles. (not a crazy stumble, just your normal low compression motor type thing)

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I have a VERY rudimentary understanding of tuning so I'm here to get my learn on . I see greater than 3 degrees of knock at around 2k rpm and am trying to square that away. So I guess the basic questions are: Are my idle settings OK and what might be causing the knock to appear so early and then disappear as I get into the throttle. TIA.

I've included a log of a bit of cruising and idling down in the garage.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Eric

Edit: My wideband twitches between ~13.9-15.9 at idle, is this relatively normal? And by twitch, I mean it varies between those values as the idle stumbles. (not a crazy stumble, just your normal low compression motor type thing)

I'm going to have to assume that your log isn't really from 2003 . Yes, it is normal for your wbo2 to fluctuate between those values. The first thing you need to do before tuning is verify that every thing is good from a mechanical stand point, base timing set to 5* BTDC, no boost leaks, throttle cable adjusted, and BISS screw set. When you say low compression, how low are we talking?

That is a lot of knock, and at only 22% throttle. Once you verify that your timing is set properly, I think it would be safe to rule that out as phantom knock. Is your logged AFR matching what is displayed on your gauge? What octane gas are you using? Is it fresh? There is no way it should be detonating at a 22% throttle with 14.0:1 AFR. On the ALS/Knock tab, set your knock sensor control to 3000 RPM and 50% throttle to help get rid of PK. You can also try using the 2g timing maps as they are more conservative.

Your idle looks pretty good, you're holding pretty close to 0.0 CombinedFT's and .25 AirFlowPerRev's. I'm not seeing your ISCPosition on the log? Are you capturing it? Your idle speed is a little high, the ISC motor can't control it if it is outside of the 750 +/- 100 RPM range. Yours is 900-1000. I would lower your target idle on the RPM/TPS tab from 950 to 750.

 

[Shaggy_357]

Thanks for the reply. The gas I'm using is a mix of fresh and 5 months old, and it's 93 octane with "up to 10% ethanol added". Do I need to tune for the ethanol, moreover, how would I do so not knowing what percent is actually ethanol? I'm thinking I may have over tightened the knock sensor, so that's on my list of things to do today. I'll set the knock parameters as suggested and give it another whirl.

When I mentioned the low compression, I just meant the stock compression for the 1g. Most low compression/stock turbo vehicles I've run into have a slight stumble at idle. Speaking of idle, when I try to turn it down it seems like the motor stumbles harder, especially as it warms up. Maybe an adjustment of the BISS is due. Also, the majority of the baselines have been checked, I haven't had a chance to check compression, though. (It's a fresh HG, but you never know )

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Thanks for the reply. The gas I'm using is a mix of fresh and 5 months old, and it's 93 octane with "up to 10% ethanol added". Do I need to tune for the ethanol, moreover, how would I do so not knowing what percent is actually ethanol? I'm thinking I may have over tightened the knock sensor, so that's on my list of things to do today. I'll set the knock parameters as suggested and give it another whirl.

When I mentioned the low compression, I just meant the stock compression for the 1g. Most low compression/stock turbo vehicles I've run into have a slight stumble at idle. Speaking of idle, when I try to turn it down it seems like the motor stumbles harder, especially as it warms up. Maybe an adjustment of the BISS is due. Also, the majority of the baselines have been checked, I haven't had a chance to check compression, though. (It's a fresh HG, but you never know )

Pretty much all gas these days is at least 10% ethanol, I would't worry about it. Just make sure your globals line up and you should be good to go. Double check the knock sensor, and check if for "knock sensor goo" while you are down there.

I would try turning the idle down and readjusting the BISS. Assuming your ISC works (and there are no boost leaks on the TB or shaft seals), it should idle much better this way.

 

[Shaggy_357]

Forgot to add, my wide band gauge seems about one point off of the a/fest in Link. Is this an indication of problems or a variance to be expected using two different sources for one measurement?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

GotForuppsed it to 40% throttle and 3300RPM as that should be about the only time you would be expecting knock. Some have it a tad lower, some have it a tad higher. 1800ish RPM at such low throttle - I don't see you detonating there. Haha.

True knock will ping through above the values I stated.

Also those fuel values are awkward for me. I would try adding dead time as well as adjusting the global along with it. I'm just personally not used to seeing 0 deadtime.

 

[Shaggy_357]

I used Link's suggestions for EVO injectors, so I've been working around that. In what way would you suggest I adjusted the fuel? I warned you guys I was a tuning nub . I corrected my idle and had to adjust the MAF sliders for a jump in the airflowperrev. Here's a log post-adjustment:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

EDIT: The wideband is closer to the estimate in Link, maybe .5 off. So I'm thinking this isn't a cause for alarm .

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Idles nice.

As for the fuel, you may not have to do anything as what you're compensating for is the amount of fuel that the ECU is seeing. I'm just used to say... with my 850's I see somewhere around -42% global and 350 deadtime. With 550's I'd expect to see a mixture as well. 'shrug' I suppose as long as it works it works. From my time with Ostrich we had to compensate with deadtime adjustments opposed to a global slider.

 

[Shaggy_357]

Makes sense. I just want to make sure my base settings are correct before I try to head off into the wild blue yonder for a cruise/WOT tune. Would it be easier to adjust (if needed) to take fuel out with the global and add it back with deadtime in order to be more precise?

Another question: I'm using the AEM UEGO to both display the A/F and simulate narrow-band. How can I set it up in Link where I can see/log the A/F reading and not the narrow-band sim voltage? I remember trying to use the Wb for just monitoring the A/F, but I couldn't get the car to run right with Link simulating narrow-band internally.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Forgot to add, my wide band gauge seems about one point off of the a/fest in Link. Is this an indication of problems or a variance to be expected using two different sources for one measurement?

EDIT: The wideband is closer to the estimate in Link, maybe .5 off. So I'm thinking this isn't a cause for alarm .

The AEM wideband is known for being off when logged via ECMlink. The way I got it to log dead on was using the LinearWB function. To do this, chose LinearWB instead of AEM wideband on the ECU inputs tab.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Then double click on the logged value in the datalog and set it up like this as a start:

• Min volts: .31
• Min Lamba: .75
• Max volts: 2.50
• Max Lamba: 1.00

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This worked for me. You may need to make a few changes for your setup. If you make a log (capture or stream) and leave it on the live datalog screen, adjust the min lamba numbers and you will see the values change on the actual log, do this until the numbers match up with your gauge. The way I did it was I did a WOT pull, watched the WB gauge to see the leanest it went, and then when I looked at the log (still fresh on the live datalog screen) I adjusted the min lamba until the logged reading matched up with what the gauge showed.

Another question: I'm using the AEM UEGO to both display the A/F and simulate narrow-band. How can I set it up in Link where I can see/log the A/F reading and not the narrow-band sim voltage? I remember trying to use the Wb for just monitoring the A/F, but I couldn't get the car to run right with Link simulating narrow-band internally.

To view the WBo2 in Link you have to set it up on the ECU inputs tab. You've already done this and named it "Wideband o2" so just make sure you are capturing and displaying it.

To setup your wideband for narrowband simulation, go the the NB02 sim tab and set it up like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hope this helps! I also hope this doesn't overwhelm you. If you have any questions or need clarification, just ask!

 

[Shaggy_357]

Ok, so I took your advice Nathan and everything seems on the up and up. I cant get the value options for the wideband that you had displayed. All I could get was the voltage settings? In either case the airfuelest now matches my actual gauge. I went for a cruise and let the MAFcompadjust do it's thing, and went for a quick pull. (Not a full 3rd gear as it's raining and I prefer to do that on empty dirt roads) In the second log, the end is where I made the pulls and it ends with me blowing my coupler . On a bright note, whereas last night I was getting 22 counts of rawknock at WOT, I was only getting 9 counts at 98% throttle. Let me know what you guys think I can adjust. TIA

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.