trouble with engine dieing when come to a fast stop PLEASE HELP

[splashofgsx]

hey guys hows it going,first off i want to say sorry if there is already a thread about this, im new to the site but am in dier need of help.

i have a question about my automatic 1997 eclipse gsx. it has an ingen front mount cooler and an exhaust system. also it has a 16g turbo running at 7psi (a little larger than the stock) everything else on the car is stock


so i just bought it the other day and it has a problem dieing whenever it comes to a stop really fast. if you are easy on it when slowing down, sometimes it dosnt die.

also it has a over drive button that i dont know ANYTHING about, when the over drive is OFF, the car idles pretty high like even if you take your foot off the gas. when the over drive button is ON, the car will idle normaly (when you take your foot off the gas going like 20mph, it will go back to idle rpms around 1000)

the only things i could think of could be
-maybe i need a better fuel pressure regulator
-air control valve
-idle air control valve (i dont know if these are the same)
-and maybe the MAP sensor?

ANY help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED i reallly dont like my car dieing on me

 

[blkgst97]

i can exceed 2k rpms i took it on the highway yesterday and got it to 6-7. but i dont think it is a fuel cut, i honestly think it could be a vac leak or the vac sensor, but i am still going to do a boost test on it thought just to be safe.. just gotta get the tester, but in the meanwhile im gunna do minor maintenance, i might try and get bigger fuel injectors just to see if thats the deal

by the way, thank you to everyone taking time out of there day to consider helping me with my problem, i really appreciate it

Putting in bigger injectors is not your answer. You also can not just put bigger injectors in without a way to compensate for them. Get that blow off valve recirculated and run a boost leak test and report back to us. Well get this figured out!

 

[slickers111]

These guys are getting on you about the Recirculated BOV because it REALLY does cause issues.
Think about it. When your boosting, you have air going into your intake piped, and the MAF reads the amount of air going into the engine, and matches the Air, with the right amount of Fuel.
When you let off the gas, the BOV will open up, letting out all the air in the pipes.
So now, you have this extra fuel getting put into your motor, with no air to match it, causing your car to bog and even die.

Trust me dude. When I was new to the Turbo world, I never thought that it was the BOV. I didnt wanna get rid of the PSHHHH. But, it was harming my motor. Thats a no no. Heres a quick example, when your car is idling, pop the hood, put your hand by the BOV, and give it a little rev. When you let off the throttle, you will feel a decent amount of air coming out.

You can do a really quick check on the VAC lines. All your looking at is for cracks, splits, and disconnections.
If you cant do a boost leak test, go through your piping, loosen up the clamps, push the piping in all the way, and re-tighten the clamps.

These are just the basics of basic for the turbo diagnostics.

 

[Bishikid]

dude OP your overlooking how important it is to recirculate your BOV.....

MY car dies too when I come to a stop, and it'll die in between shifts if I don't shift quick enough... BUT my bov ISN'T free venting, I went taboo vacuum line routing, and EGR block off plate, so I know its a boost leak.

you MAY also have a boost leak or vacuum leak, but your bov free venting is making a lot of the damage. My car wouldn't even stay on when I was free venting mine.

RECIRCULATE YOUR BOV, THEN REPORT BACK TO US....

 

[splashofgsx]

okay my brother had a rubber hose lying around and my dsm is now recirculated,
so i retested it so possibilities of uncirculating it?
downside, it still did not fix my dieing problem when i come to a stop really fast.. i can still slow down normally and it wont die, im starting to think its the EGR vavle?

any ideas?

 

[AskDrStupid]

Just connect the BOV and the intake with a hose and clamps. The hose is circled here

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You can buy the hose from DSM Graveyard for $13 + shipping or you can use a generic hose from your local auto parts store and not have to wait (I hate waiting).

Just measure the diamater you need and buy the appropriate hose and hose clamps. Slide the hose over the BOV and secure with a hose clamp then slide over the intake pipe large nipple and secure with a hose clamp. Easy Peazy.

Your ECU has accounted for that air comming into the engine so if you vent that air to the atmosphere your engine gets filled with too much fuel which causes (in addition to stalling) uneven combustion and thus uneven engine wear which is not good in the long term.

 

[wdawson4]

Your next step is to perform a blt, so you will either need to make a boost leak tester or post in your local forum for someone to assist you in performing a BLT.

 

[splashofgsx]

okay my brother had a rubber hose lying around and my dsm is now recirculated,
so i retested it so possibilities of uncirculating it?
downside, it still did not fix my dieing problem when i come to a stop really fast.. i can still slow down normally and it wont die, im starting to think its the EGR vavle?

any ideas?

 

[wdawson4]

okay my brother had a rubber hose lying around and my dsm is now recirculated,
so i retested it so possibilities of uncirculating it?
downside, it still did not fix my dieing problem when i come to a stop really fast.. i can still slow down normally and it wont die, im starting to think its the EGR vavle?

any ideas?

what do you mean by that? If you do not have dsmlink+gm maf+gm maf cable OR gm maf +maft then your bov needs to be recirculated wether that was the problem or not so do not remove the tube you just installed.

 

[pur97tsifwd]

It sounds like to me you need to check your base timing and adjust your biss screw on the tb your idle should be at 750 warm no accessories on.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk

 

[splashofgsx]

ok, i am not going to be un recirculating my bov, it was just a thought.. im (really) new to this it sucks

i can take a look at the biss on the tb.. is it easy to get to? i know where the turn belt is but i honestly dont know where the screw is or what to look for

 

[wdawson4]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

"tb" stands for throttle body and the circled image is where the biss screw is. Oh and BISS stands for BASE IDLE SET SCREW.

 

[frostyzx]

I hate to say it man, but it needs to be said. It's time for you to read through the entire Vfaq site!

http://www.vfaq.com/


--
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk.

 

[splashofgsx]

hey dont worry about it, i have 1000 already answered questions right next to me to help me through what you guys are talking about .. i understand i know nothing, but i am definitly trying to learn.

thank you for the visual picture im gunna check that out, also what is the normal vac for these cars mine is 20 when going and 12 when stopped

 

[wdawson4]

Before i got cammed i think i was at -18hg at idle that was a little while ago but my memory is normally pretty good

 

[superpenguin]

my old automatic eclipse did this same thing. check the intake gasket and idle air controller. that's what fixed mine

 

[AskDrStupid]

You definately want to do a boost leak test and set your BISS. I recently had to do both of these for a front mount intercooler install.

BISS:
I found a thread somewhere discussing how to set the BISS. A very basic setting is to turn it about 3 1/2 turns from the bottom. Thats what I did and I have had no problems so far.
So get a phillips screwdriver and turn that plastic screw on your throttle body all the way to the bottom until it stops. Then watch your screwdriver and count 3 1/2 turns from the bottom. That should be sufficient for a while.

Boost Leak Test:
I got a compressor from Craigslist for $50, a hose and connectors from Pep Boys for $20, and a boost leak tester for $15 or so online. You will also need a coupler but I was able to use the one from my Dejon intake pipe. There is lots of good material on the internet to coach you through the process. Here is what I used:

(boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester)

Boost Leak Testing 201: Using the ToolBoost Leak Testing 202: Hair Spray).

With the boost leak test just be patient. Take the time to order correct gaskets etc from STM or Mach V and pay attention when you install them. I was impatient and just bought them from the dealership and I was ripped off.

Additionally, make sure your idle switch is connected. (The plug on mine got ripped off but I just soldered on a spade connector from ACE, wrapped it in E-tape, and now it works fine).

 

[Haytees]

This may sound stupid... But check your battery terminals.

On my old 1.8t passat i installed my amp kit for my sub and it kept making the terminal bolts loosen up
and when i would stop quickly or sometimes slowly it would shut off.
i had to re tighten like every two weeks

idk just my .02

 

[splashofgsx]

thanks for all the info guys, ive been checking alot of stuff like non stop since i havnt had work, but im gunna buy a new iac and see if i can have my brother try and help me install it.. ill keep you updated

also.. still havnt done the blt , but its on my list