transmission .. at the end of the rope :-(

[Alconchino]

I have a 94 nt 4g63 my 5th gear always had play in it when I am on and off the gas. It would move back and forth. kinda thought that was normal. .but until recently I seen it move more towards neutral when on the gas. And on Friday when I was driving in 5th gear it just popped off into neutral. It won't stay in 5th unless I hold it there. It will stay intill I accelerate. I watch it slowly pull itself to neutral. . Before this whole thing happened when I would go from 5th gear to neutral ,it felt like the clutch wasent totally disengaged. It was.. I researched on all the dsm sights. And it lead me to remove the side of the transmission. To see if that 36mm nuts were loose it wasn't. And I re tighten them down 110ft. ..put it all back together. And still same I am so lost and I cant find any parts for my transmission. Its like the 4g63Nt didn't exist :-(

 

[Tyeler18]

It sounds like your motor mounts are toast, and may have wreaked more havoc on the engine. The shifter moving back and forth when you're on/off the gas is a normal sign of engine mounts that are long past replacing. This will also cause poor clutch disengagement like you're stating as the trans and engine ill try and pull apart from each other.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Did you try a rebuild shop for part numbers? try shep, tre, jacks, aamco, nothing special try dealer for part numbers I have some friends there I can have them look it up if you need parts for a transmission.

 

[YUPOK]

Sounds like a syncro issue. I would see if you could find a good used trans.

Give this guy a PM and see if he can help you out, it's worth a shot. He deals with DSM parts,

1993eclipseGS

 

[luv2rallye]

Syncros have nothing to do with gear popouts. Here are the reasons for gear popouts: WC Engineering : 5th Gear Pop-Out

 

[Alconchino]

Yes thank you ..first one to agree with me. I didnt think it was a synchronizer to. So all my motor mounts are new. And shifter bushings and ok then sadly its bearings... is thsg something that can be replaced. If so how. If not. Were can I find a different trans..my junkyard already has most of these cars picked out nothing left in it... my problem is I can find the fwd turbo trans online. Or the 1.8 but not for the 2.0 nt...... I just want a running car

 

[donniekak]

Remove the transmission end cover, and tighten the 36mm state nuts, and re stake them. Or better yet, replace them with new ones.

 

[Alconchino]

I did yesterday. They were tight. I lossend them and re torqued to 110ftp
Still no luck

 

[pauleyman]

Way to read the thread. Yes bearings are replaceable but it takes a transmission teardown to do it.

 

[luv2rallye]

Before assuming it's a dreaded internal tranny problem (like bearings):

1) Make absolutely sure your anti roll motor mounts (front and back ones that prevent engine roll when accel/decel) are not excessively moving (even though you say they are new). Do this like so: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/433167-vibration-acceleration.html#post152945948

2) Make absolutely sure your shifter cables are not pulling it out of gear because their casings are not mounted to the tranny securely OR the shifter or bushings are loose (on either end of shifter cables and shifter plate). Any of this can pull it out of gear when engine moves.

If all this ok then the tranny most likely is the problem. You can rebuild/fix the tranny yourself (I have done mine) but don't let others on here fool you.

[Many on these forums will claim how easy it is and they did it in 1 afternoon or 1 weekend, bla, bla, bla - of course they don't mention that they have a car lift, tranny jack, 2 other helpers, have done a DSM MT tranny rebuild before, 12 ton press, bearing separator and pullers, all the tools professional mechanics have including tranny specialty tools, air compressor, 1/2 day access for every single new replacement part including every thickness spacer (aka shim) for bearing preloads/end play, worked non-stop, actually did do it all correctly and completely, have a time clock that runs 45 minutes/hour slow to justify their grossly exaggerated completion time, etc, etc, etc, bla, bla, bla, along with all their other lies and exaggerations].

The reality however, for the rest of us that want honesty, is it is not for the faint hearted, or those not VERY mechanically minded, or those without proper tools (including a press and bearing seperator), or have the factory shop manual, or willing to read tranny rebuild articles, or willing to spend the time and work SLOWLY (and it will take a LOT of time), or willing to do the bearing preload/end play measurements described in the factory manual and order proper spacers (shims) and willing to wait another week for them. And it will take you a week just to get parts every time you order (one for bearings and another for spacers which you won't know until after you install the new bearings and measure). It is very complex inside and the preloads/end play must be adjusted or you will be doing it again next year. For most people taking the car to a local tranny shop is the better way to go (or getting a used one if your willing to put up with it's unknown problems and reliability). [Beware I have yet to find a local tranny shop that actually does the bearing preload/end play adjustment due to the time involved and spacer unavailability!] Or you can send it to a quality tranny rebuild shop like Jacks, Sheps, etc but then you have to remove the tranny yourself, ship it to them, and wait a couple weeks for it to return, and reinstall it yourself. Here is an excellent article on rebuilding the turbo MT (yours is simialar) to give you an idea of the work involved: Dre. However if you do decide to do it yourself there's tranny experts on here to help.

 

[Sebba]

Syncros have nothing to do with gear popouts. Here are the reasons for gear popouts: WC Engineering : 5th Gear Pop-Out

Thank you!

Beat me to it.

 

[Hillala]

Before assuming it's a dreaded internal tranny problem (like bearings):

1) Make absolutely sure your anti roll motor mounts (front and back ones that prevent engine roll when accel/decel) are not excessively moving (even though you say they are new). Do this like so: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/433167-vibration-acceleration.html#post152945948

2) Make absolutely sure your shifter cables are not pulling it out of gear because their casings are not mounted to the tranny securely OR the shifter or bushings are loose (on either end of shifter cables and shifter plate). Any of this can pull it out of gear when engine moves.

If all this ok then the tranny most likely is the problem. You can rebuild/fix the tranny yourself (I have done mine) but don't let others on here fool you.

[Many on these forums will claim how easy it is and they did it in 1 afternoon or 1 weekend, bla, bla, bla - of course they don't mention that they have a car lift, tranny jack, 2 other helpers, have done a DSM MT tranny rebuild before, 12 ton press, bearing separator and pullers, all the tools professional mechanics have including tranny specialty tools, air compressor, 1/2 day access for every single new replacement part including every thickness spacer (aka shim) for bearing preloads/end play, worked non-stop, actually did do it all correctly and completely, have a time clock that runs 45 minutes/hour slow to justify their grossly exaggerated completion time, etc, etc, etc, bla, bla, bla, along with all their other lies and exaggerations].

The reality however, for the rest of us that want honesty, is it is not for the faint hearted, or those not VERY mechanically minded, or those without proper tools (including a press and bearing seperator), or have the factory shop manual, or willing to read tranny rebuild articles, or willing to spend the time and work SLOWLY (and it will take a LOT of time), or willing to do the bearing preload/end play measurements described in the factory manual and order proper spacers (shims) and willing to wait another week for them. And it will take you a week just to get parts every time you order (one for bearings and another for spacers which you won't know until after you install the new bearings and measure). It is very complex inside and the preloads/end play must be adjusted or you will be doing it again next year. For most people taking the car to a local tranny shop is the better way to go (or getting a used one if your willing to put up with it's unknown problems and reliability). [Beware I have yet to find a local tranny shop that actually does the bearing preload/end play adjustment due to the time involved and spacer unavailability!] Or you can send it to a quality tranny rebuild shop like Jacks, Sheps, etc but then you have to remove the tranny yourself, ship it to them, and wait a couple weeks for it to return, and reinstall it yourself. Here is an excellent article on rebuilding the turbo MT (yours is simialar) to give you an idea of the work involved: Dre. However if you do decide to do it yourself there's tranny experts on here to help.

It's spot on like the man said. I've worked on transmissions before, I have the tools to do whats needed... I also just got my c51ph back from Jack because it's NOT a walk in the park or a 2hour job like some say, It's very technical. If you do go with a rebuild I would say go with Jack (he's got crazy awesome customer service) but that doesn't mean there aren't others such as Shep or Tre. If you're staying around stock power then getting a good used trans, "IF" that's the issue, would be your best option.

 

[Alconchino]

I was going to go down the road of just buying a rebuilt one from john shep or jacks but they only have the 4g63t as a rebuild option. How can I rebuild the nt one. I am not like makeing crazy hp. Just stock. I just want to eliminate the transmission problems and get a new rebuilt one...my engine and body is still really strong. I hate to waste a perfectly good dsm just over a spotty trans

 

[luv2rallye]

For you I recommend driving the car to a local reputable tranny shop like Kennedy Transmission to get a free estimate. IMO they'll still lie about doing the bearing preloads/end play and/or claim it didn't need it (personal experience) but at least they will do it in a couple days and give you a 1 year warranty. I think it's your best option if you want it done quickly and don't want to do it yourself (or spend all the time, money, and effort to pull it and send it somewhere).