trans, t-case and engine.

[2gdanny]

hey every one i have a question regarding trans and t-case.
as im about days from getting my block from the machine shop, i alsready have the trans from dogbox and the t-case back from jacks.
the engine bay is ready for me to drop everything in,
my question is as i have the tcase and trans right now can i bolt them together then when i get the motor bolt the motor to it or t case showld go in last?

when i droped the engine t-case came out first, then droped trans and engine from the bottom then bothe came apart.
thanks.

 

[twicks69]

Install transmission and engine together, and install the transfer case last after you have the intake manifold, wiring, mounts, vacuum lines, etc. attached. This will make it easier to install stuff from underneath the vehicle, along with the driver-side halfshaft assembly.

Install the transfer case and driveshaft, then install the exhaust components last.

Makes life alot easier this way.

 

[2gdanny]

Ok thanks that sounds easy, also another question , I have the magnus intake manifold it's got 4 ports, can I use one for bov, one for the map sensor , one for the fpr, and just block the other one?
And is the intake manifold the best place to hook up the bov?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Yes it is find to run everything off of the intake manifold. It is always recommended to use it as your source.

 

[2gdanny]

Ok sounds good to me thanks alot guys I will post images as soon as I start taking this steps.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Feel free to create a build blog to post images and up to date information in. Build threads and progress threads are frowned upon.

 

[blade970]

When isntalling the driveshaft back into the transfer case, is there any grease or lube or anything you need to put on it when you slip it back in?

 

[2gdanny]

I have been putting together a image file, from the first day when I got the car till the day I stripped the car to mettal, got painted, ruberized the underbody,
powder coated subframes, control arms, end links and everything powder coated.
And befor Xmas my computer crashed and couldn't save anything.
Now I got a new computer but I don't have the images anymore, I only have images off the all braded lines and suspension installed, but from the last step off images I have I sure will make a build blog.

 

[twicks69]

When isntalling the driveshaft back into the transfer case, is there any grease or lube or anything you need to put on it when you slip it back in?

Shouldn't need to -- just keep the splines in the yoke clean, and same thing goes for the transfer case output splines.

 

[twicks69]

Ok thanks that sounds easy, also another question , I have the magnus intake manifold it's got 4 ports, can I use one for bov, one for the map sensor , one for the fpr, and just block the other one?
And is the intake manifold the best place to hook up the bov?

Don't forget about your boost gauge, boost controller and your brake booster vacuum line. The boost gauge can be Tee'd off of the AFPR or the BOV without any issues.

With the sources you mentioned and the two I mentioned, use one dedicated port for the brake booster vacuum line, one for the BOV, one for the boost controller (with the other line from the boost controller going to your wastegate -- keep this vacuum line as short as possible), and then one vacuum line from the SMIM to the AFPR with a Tee running a vacuum line to the MAP sensor.

This will result in less potential of erradic harmonic issues with the MAP sensor and will give you a smoother view of the actual boost pressure. Are you using DSMLink or AEM EMS? If you are using AEM EMS, you can have your MAP filter around 4-6 without any problems.

These should be the five things you would want to run from the SMIM vacuum ports. You can always run your boost controller off the compressor cover to the wastegate if you want, but it will be a reference pressure at the turbo, not at the intake manifold.

 

[JackM]

When isntalling the driveshaft back into the transfer case, is there any grease or lube or anything you need to put on it when you slip it back in?

Yes, put grease or oil on all seals before installing the axles, driveshaft or whatever. If you install a shaft dry on a dry seal it will burn the seal up and it can leak.

Jack

 

[blade970]

Any particular grease or oil you guys like to use?

 

[2gdanny]

First let me say Thanks to Jack, the t-case as been in and it looks great, thanks.

And thinking about it I'm not sure 100% if it's got 4 or 5 ports on the back, but I was thinking about runing every one individual, besides the fpr as I never senn it ther way besides t'd off.

As for the map sensor I have seen it strigh screwd on to the manifold so that was ### I was thinking about doing, unless there are other options that work better, or if there's a resons y I shouldn't do that?

As for the blow off valve I was running one boost source for it with no t off's.

And for the brake booster I was going to run it's own as well, the Reson beeing is becouse I think there is 5 ports and not for so I think it would look cleaner.

For boost controller I have the aem boost controller wich I have been tolled by some people I can run the boost source from the compressor housing or intake manifold, I want to know what my options and best one is?


Menagment will be with aem ems, dynateck.

As for the air temp sensor I still need to weld it on, what's the best position and place to weld it.

I know the closer the boost controller is to the w/g the better, and sens the aem boost controller as fittings I was going to bolt it stright on the w/g.

All of this is just still out on the open till the motor goes in, and I'm looking for ideas and the best ways possible.

 

[JackM]

Any particular grease or oil you guys like to use?

It doesn't matter. Anything is better than nothing. I stick my finger in the gear oil jug and just wipe the oil on the seals and shafts.

Jack

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Hi,

I do not have first hand experience with the AEM boost controller. Looks like your standard electronic boost controller. This means I would want to reference boost pressure from the intake manifold and not the compressor housing with this setup. This way you can match it up to your MAP sensor readings.

Also you mentioned that you want to mount the solenoid directly to the wastegate. I would not do this because of the possiblity of the solenoid getting too hot that close to the turbine housing/exhaust manifold/exhaust system.

Bill

 

[2gdanny]

ok guys after alot of reading and drawing and looking, i think i got it down on how i whant everything to go and ran, heres a pic i draw out really fast.

i think you guys will be able to make out what's what,

blue and red, fpr
navy blue boost gauges
black brake booster
orenge map sensor
grey bov
light blue boost controller
purple and black wastegate

all the greens you see that's all fittings as im running everything with braded line back to the manifold with fittings as well.

ps: if some one can repost the image regualr size, and if some one would like to change it on what he or she thinks would be the best way be free to, and thanks for every one help

 

[BrokenTsi]

I run a vacuum distribution block off the intake manifold. I run the FPR, break booster, and pcv valve to the intake (JMfab). The other port is for the vacuum block which provides vacuum to my boost gauge, map sensor, BOV, meth injection, and EBC.

I run a -3an SS line for my Tial BOV and Map sensor.

I use this:

Fast-Turbo Vacuum Block Honda Acura Nissan DSM Manifold:eBay Motors (item 120450052905 end time Jan-15-10 17:49:09 PST)

My SMIM only has 4 ports. I bought it used, or else I would have had more added. Nothing is tee'd.

 

[2gdanny]

well i feel like having it tee'd or with a block its the same thing,

i just whant to have everything reading as good as possible from the boost gauge to the map sensor, to the bov working proper, and having the aem boost control ready perfect as well.

 

[BrokenTsi]

A tee will work fine.

 

[2gdanny]

i found this would you guys say this is a good idea or not, this was the reson i thought about bolting the map sensor right on the manifold>.

Hey guys im not trying to bump, but after reading andcsesrching I still have some questions reguarding all of the vacuum lines.

The things I will be running, aem boost controler
map sensor
boost gauge
bov
fpr
brake booster
Theres vacuum sources on the manifold and one on the compressor housing.

The boost controller says to run it from compressor housing teed off to the wastegate and to the boost controller, then from the boost controller to wastegate.

My idea with that would be to run to manifol
bov alon to manifold

boost gauge alon to manifold
brake booster alon to manifold
fpr and map sensor to t , from t to manifold.
Is this a correct way?
Should I not use the compressor housing as a boost source.
Any help and hints are welcome.

ps:do i need a pcv valve between the brake boost and manifold, if so wich one, as at the outo parts store they actually have difrent pressure ones.

 

[2gdanny]

hey every i ended up going with a vacuum block and everything runs to the block, boost gauge, brake booster, bov, fpr and map.

i was thinking about running the boost source from the turbo inlet, as it was stated befor, i would get better reading coming off the intake where the map is.

can any one give me a insite on this?
or if any one has a diagram that will be able to show be the best way on to run the lines to the wastegate, having the aem boost selonoid hooked up on it as well.

 

[twicks69]

Well, if you want to do it that way, go for it.

Personally, I would rather know what is going on at the intake manifold for boost pressure.

 

[2gdanny]

And as for hooking up the aem boost controller.
Does it go,
from manifold to boost controller
from booste controller to waste gate?
Wich port top or bottom?
The other port left do I cap it or leave it open?