TRANS LOUD AT IDLE!! freaking out. help

[pandaswag]

i have my car in for a head gasket repair at the dealer i work at.. its been sitting with a blown head gasket waiting for repair. its a long story. Fact is though, the trans has never given me an issue.. when the gasket went though (oil coming out of the cylinderhead and such.. just everywhere) it seemed to be coming out near the trans?? idk!

ANYWAYS. i started the car today to hear the sound the mechanic was talking about and it goes like this..

when i started the car immediatly something was rattling really loud. i pressed down on the clutch and it stopped. let go.. more rattling and griding.. im already 1k in debt with the head gasket repair now i have to spend more on the trans??? Anyone know what could be wrong?

honestly sorry for the scrambled / hard to understand info its just im freaking out and i start work in a minute.. HELLPP

 

[laserspeeddemon]

That is incorrect. It's not that simple. He would have to do more work than that. He pretty much would need to completely remove the transmission.

**edit** Nevermind, I swore he was AWD***

 

[H@xtGSX]

Throw out bearing failure can be a pretty damaging event though. I have a Jeep Wrangler 4.0L that I did a lot of performance work on, and one day while driving it around in the sand dunes, the TOB grenaded. It took out the shaft it sits on, the pressure plate, a chunk flew through the plate opening hitting the disk and breaking part of it, and the flywheel was gouged up bad enough to have to replace it also. Gambling on a TOB can be expensive. I haven't had any problems with the TOB on my car yet, but I'm replacing it when I replace the clutch next week anyway.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Almost all clutch kits come with a TOB.

Re-reading the systems. I disagree that it is the TOB. It sounds like something is wrong with the clutch disc or Pressure plate. Both are expensive to replace and involve a lot of labor. Hate to say it, but if you are already $1000 in debt for the repair, you can't afford to do the rest of the diagnostic and repair for this type of issue. Removing the trans itself could cost around $500 in labor.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Just depends if they used an alignment tool to install the friction disk, and the disk was installed correctly. Its not really rocket science. But I am betting on TOB too. Bad clutch would get worse with the clutch engaged based on the pressure plate being pressed on at that point. TOB normally stops when clutch is depressed, and the pressure plate becomes an issue only when clutch is pressed in. Normally its a spring failure and or a misalignment of the clutch disk.

 

[dsmftw93]

sounds like a bad throw out bearing

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I have a transmission that makes noise like that when it's cold, and it's not the throwout bearing. I know it's not for sure because my other transmission doesn't make the noise.

It's pretty easy to tell which it is: Start car, hear rattle. Press clutch. Does the noise stop instantly when you apply pressure to the clutch, or do you hear the noise slow down and subside? Mine you can hear the internals slow down and stop turning when the clutch becomes fully disengaged. The throwout bearing would not slow down and stop rattling, it would just be rattling at a constant speed, and then suddenly become muffled or stop as if someone was rattling something, and suddenly put their hand on it to stop the noise in mid rattle.

Another indication: If I slowly lift my foot off the clutch, you can hear the bearings in the transmission start rattling again right at the spot where the clutch starts to engage, not at the spot where the pressure is fully released from the throwout bearing.

Cliff notes: Bad throwout bearing stops rattling near the top of the clutch travel, bad internal bearings stop rattling near the bottom of the clutch travel.