Tranny leak thoughts?

[kronus]

Well, I'm almost 100% positive that my input shaft seal went, because I've noticed a few drops of fluid under my tranny everytime I've parked for about 2 months now. But starting a couple of days ago, those drops became puddles, and sure enough the leak was coming from inside the bellhousing coming out of the clutch fork opening and puddling in the clutch fork boot. Now I know it is fluid from the transmission because of the smell, and the silvery 'shimmer.'

I had my clutch replaced in May by a shop, but they didn't replace the input shaft seal. So I figure since there's a good chance my clutch is now ruined, I was going to replace the clutch and pressure plate while I had the tranny out. A few questions now.

1. Should I use an OEM TOB or the one that comes with the clutch kit?

2. Should I use a parts store input shaft seal or OEM?

3. Anything I should replace while the tranny is out?

4. Any opinions about this clutch kit? http://impressiveimportperformance.chainreactionweb.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=33_210_211_443&products_id=3219

5. If I do need to replace the clutch, do I need to resurface the flywheel since it was resurfaced in May with the previous clutch job?

Thanks for the time and space!

 

[Boosted4]

Well, I'm almost 100% positive that my input shaft seal went, because I've noticed a few drops of fluid under my tranny everytime I've parked for about 2 months now. But starting a couple of days ago, those drops became puddles, and sure enough the leak was coming from inside the bellhousing coming out of the clutch fork opening and puddling in the clutch fork boot. Now I know it is fluid from the transmission because of the smell, and the silvery 'shimmer.'

I had my clutch replaced in May by a shop, but they didn't replace the input shaft seal. So I figure since there's a good chance my clutch is now ruined, I was going to replace the clutch and pressure plate while I had the tranny out. A few questions now.

1. Should I use an OEM TOB or the one that comes with the clutch kit?

2. Should I use a parts store input shaft seal or OEM?

3. Anything I should replace while the tranny is out?

4. Any opinions about this clutch kit? http://impressiveimportperformance.chainreactionweb.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=33_210_211_443&products_id=3219

5. If I do need to replace the clutch, do I need to resurface the flywheel since it was resurfaced in May with the previous clutch job?

Thanks for the time and space!

If it needs to come out, then it needs to come out. Pulling a tranny on a FWD car is very easy. If you have a few tools and a jack there would be no reason why a somewhat competent person cant easily do it. Personally I use all OEM and I would suggest it to anyone. The seal is cheap from the dealer, and it's not that big of a deal to go and grab it and have that extra bit of assurance that you bought OEM. I would also suggest you check over your clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder while you are down there, if they arent leaking then you are good to go. The other thing that you are going to need to have done is have your flywheel resurfaced, no you dont HAVE to but its highly suggested, and make sure its done right. Check www.VFAQ.com under the drivetrain section and it should tell you everything you need to know ... or visit www.roadraceengineering.com. As for that clutch, ACT is always a good choice. I run an ACT 2900 kit on my AWD and I like it. Go for it, its a nice kit. Just use the throw out bearing that comes with the kit. It will be fine. Good luck and if you have any other questions just PM me.

good luck.

Brandon

 

[kronus]

Oh, I read some warning that the 2900 leads to not being able to walk straight because the left leg becomes so much larger than the right, . Is that right? And thanks for the info.

 

[hewhoisknot]

I drive with a 2600 and yes it hurts but you get used to it after a while, but you never adapt to traffic in the thing. But (no offense) seeing as to you being N/A I do not see the need for you to have some an extreme clutch. I would just say oem everything. Though resurfacing your flywheel is a good idea.

BUN

 

[kronus]

Well I wasn't planning on a 2900. I'm just gonna get a 2100 since the kit is so cheap. And I went through the OEM one kinda quickly. Started to slip before the leak. But that's IF I need to replace it, hopefully I won't.

 

[kronus]

Crap. Someone just mentioned that I'd need to tear apart my tranny to get to the input shaft seal. Is that true?

 

[kronus]

EDIT: Finally started to pull my tranny yesterday. Great news: Cracked transmission case. And when I pulled the drain plug, not a drop came out. So I'm looking for a used transmission now. The only problem is that it's getting a little cold to venture out to the JY to grab one. So does anyone know where I can get a good used transmission? And for cheaper too. I'm not looking to buy an imported transmission or anything, just a cheap effective replacement that'll last up to 6 months.

 

[hewhoisknot]

Gary at the mitsu graveyard, he's a sponsor on here.

BUN

 

[kronus]

Ah ha. Thank you much, didn't even think of him.

 

[kronus]

Quick question for anyone that knows. The VFAQ states that I should remove the transmission mount from the transmission for easier installation. Would you guys recommend removing the mount while the tranny is still in the car, or after it has been removed from the car?

 

[Mike1992]

Quick question for anyone that knows. The VFAQ states that I should remove the transmission mount from the transmission for easier installation. Would you guys recommend removing the mount while the tranny is still in the car, or after it has been removed from the car?

It's a 2-piece mount, one side bolts to the frame and one side bolts to the tranny and they're held togeather with a though bolt. Remove them both and drop the tranny out the bottom. Might wanna pull the reverse switch out also, they tend to get hung up on tranny removal and break easy.