The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Tools I Need To Paint My Car

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KaLo

15+ Year Contributor
51
0
Feb 12, 2006
Leamington,
hey guys...

I want to paint my car myself but I have never done it before...I want to know all the tools I need....and what sandpaper to use to sand my car so I dont see marks after the painting...also if you guys know whats a good paint gun out there ... i want to know all this stuff...and how to paint the door jams ...thx
 
what shape is the body in?what kind of paint?single stage,base coat/clear coat?what color?
 
i have a 1G talon..i want my paint black...with a nice gloss but not too much...and i want to paint my door jams..the shape of the body is in stock condition..and theres no dents
maybe a little bit of rust..but im not asking for a estimate..i want to know what tools i need.....thx again ... oh yeah and i aslo want to put something to protect my paint....what do i need?
 
ok here it goes..
1.DA sander
2.a big air compressor
3.an air file
4.a garage with ventilation
5.220,320,400,600 grit sand paper
6.bondo
7.masking tape and paper
8.gravity feed paint gun
your best bet is to go to a auto paint store and they can tell you everything you need to know otherwise we will be here all day LOL.
 
if YOU are painting it black.. prepare for dissapointment, as a decent black paitn job is hard to do.
 
This link has been floating around for quite sometime, but here you go.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=13&vc=1

Paintjob on a budget, it's not for everyone, but some people have had a lot of success using this technique. You could paint something easy first, and see if you like the results. You don't need nearly as much equipment like in one of the previous posts. Let us know what you end up trying!
 
True... black is a hard color for beginners. You can see every mistake you made. The best thing to do is to find an online article somewhere on how to paint your car and just follow directions as best as possible.

Just one tip though, get a slower reducer for your base coat; take your time and don't rush.
 
first off, how bad is the car that needs painted? and there is a reason people go to school to learn how to do this... its not cheap nor easy... but if you stuck on doing it... with the tape and paper, i woudl get a making machine or something like it, thats what we use at work... but just like others said, black is a Biswatch to make look good, we have had to repaint stuff b/c of stupid color and weird german colors... and the whole paint booth thing might be a problem unless you have the money and space to build one...

and some more sand paper like 2000+ for color sanding, then all the buffers and polishes ect for afterwards... there is alot of money to be spent...

takerEz
wade
 
This thread is really helping me out, I am soon to paint my front and rear bumpers. Not to hijack but instead of starting a similar thread this might help the original poster since we are both painting ourselves and using black. Question to people with painting experience, so you say black is more difficult not because the color might be off, but because it will reveal errors and what not much easier? Also is there a reason to buy for example the mitsubishi paint code black vs just the regular auto base black that I have seen sold? (I have to match my stock black)
 
a random black will be a different shade than the OEM black..
Just because its black doesnt mean that there is no variation.
 
thanks, I guess ill have to search around some more then. Im surprised because a lot of people said straight jet black is the easiest color to match to a factory black.
 
If your new to autobody, i would suggest taking your car to a shop for them to throw down the paint... especially if this is your first time spraying paint... Im restoring my Talon right now, and im just gettin it prepped for paint. Gettin it all straight and flat, then prep. Then all the shop has to do is clean, mask and sprayyyyyy... way easier and cheaper for you. PLus then u get some warranty too...:thumb:
But as for sandpapers.. drop down to like a 80 for some quick bondo work then 180. I always do 80- then 180 then orbital 320.. then finish with wet sand 600. It goes quick. And shes good to go...
 
If you spray the entire car with 2k urethane primer before hand it makes sanding really easy, and not only that but you dont have to wet sand, just use the 320 to make it a little rough then wipe it clean with KARSOL and you are ready to go. Make sure when you are cleaning the car off right before painting you use a non oil based solvent, as oil causes fish eyes in a paint job.
 
Lazer RS said:
But as for sandpapers.. drop down to like a 80 for some quick bondo work then 180. I always do 80- then 180 then orbital 320

For body filler, I like to use 80 to 150 to 180. Sometimes going from 80 to 180 leaves very small scratches that 180 can't seem to sand out and primer surfacer doesn't cover up. Just from personal experience. I don't use 320 unless the body work is a little wavy, then I go to 400 then 600 using a hand sanding block on the flat surfaces, a DA on the curved surfaces.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top