Toasted stock FWD clutch with EVOIII, need sugguestions.

[truwarrior]

Toasted stock FWD clutch with EVOIII, need sugguestions on which clutch to go with. I'm thinking of having AMS install my new clutch but they only sell the ACT 2100...(I don't want the higher 2600 for CW reasons) I've heard to many horror stories about the ACT spings that I don't know if I wanna go with that clutch.

I'm also probably gonna have a LSD installed at the same time.

HELP!

Launched at 3500rpms...rev limit 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th,...I'm out of gears and the berreta is like 1 car infront... pull over shut the car off...some smoke out the hood, after about 5 min turn it back on and the clutch barley engages all the way out. Barley made it home.

 

[2g_spyderturbo]

yes i would go with the 2100 its a great clutch,my buddy has one and i have driven it and i must say i love it,with the spring thing iv only heard that if its installed wrong that will happen like i said my buddy has had 3 and never any prob with any of them,and a few of hes buddies have them also and no prob


but just to let you know defiant is going to lock this thread because of your little story and also keep the the races for the track we dont need any more people dying from street racing that already are

 

[tickets4days]

canu help me

 

[2g_spyderturbo]

^^^^

sory but i dont know anyone with what your looking for

 

[Sotarts]

Toasted stock FWD clutch with EVOIII, need sugguestions on which clutch to go with. I'm thinking of having AMS install my new clutch but they only sell the ACT 2100...(I don't want the higher 2600 for CW reasons) I've heard to many horror stories about the ACT spings that I don't know if I wanna go with that clutch.

I'm also probably gonna have a LSD installed at the same time.

HELP!

Story...raced some mexican guys in a beretta smoked him twice from a roll...like 30 car lengths (no kidding, Im running 20psi from creep)....next stop light...he caught up...launched at 3500rpms...rev limit 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th,...I'm out of gears and the berreta is like 1 car infront... pull over shut the car off...some smoke out the hood, after about 5 min turn it back on and the clutch barley engages all the way out. Barley made it home.

Who told you that AMS sell only 2100? 2600 will simply last longer. I doubt you'll have crankwalk on your FWD Beretta warrior. Make sure all transmission dowel pins are in place when transmission is bolted back in place for proper alignment and the clutch will be fine.

 

[truwarrior]

That's what's on their website...

 

[Sotarts]

That's what's on their website...

Says who? Maybe you should check out their website sometime?
I recommend ordering a new clutch kit elsewhere, somewhere online where you will get free shipping and pay no taxes (although AMS will charge you more for labor if you bring in your own parts)--AMS sells them for more and you'll pay taxes on everything, even so, you'll end up paying few bucks less if you get your clutch elsewhere. Look into getting an ACT clutch kit with ACT flywheel--you'll love the combination. DO get the actual Mitsubishi throwout bearing, one included with ACT clutch tends to make noise--mine does.

 

[truwarrior]

It couldn't be anything else can it? It enages if I'm all the way off the clutch barely...when it grabs if I boost even a couple psi it appears to slip and the rpms go up but car doesn't move.

 

[Sotarts]

It couldn't be anything else can it? It enages if I'm all the way off the clutch barely...when it grabs if I boost even a couple psi it appears to slip and the rpms go up but car doesn't move.

Yep, your clutch is dead. If you keep driving, you'll wear down the disk to bare metal, reaching the point where your car won't move at all. Happened to me.

Your flywheel is probably going to be pretty beat up as well. I recommend getting an ACT Street flywheel with new ACT clutch.

 

[AMS Eric #2]

Toasted stock FWD clutch with EVOIII, need sugguestions on which clutch to go with. I'm thinking of having AMS install my new clutch but they only sell the ACT 2100...(I don't want the higher 2600 for CW reasons) I've heard to many horror stories about the ACT spings that I don't know if I wanna go with that clutch.

I'm also probably gonna have a LSD installed at the same time.

HELP!

Launched at 3500rpms...rev limit 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th,...I'm out of gears and the berreta is like 1 car infront... pull over shut the car off...some smoke out the hood, after about 5 min turn it back on and the clutch barley engages all the way out. Barley made it home.

I dont recall the springs breaking on ANY ACT clutch we've installed, leaving me to believe it caused from installation error or just plain over abuse.

 

[daren_p]

Im going with the centerforce dual friction clutch/xact streetlight flywheel combo for my evoIII setup, & this is what I would recommend. Has better holding compared to the 2100 and puts slightly less pressure on the thrust bearing (to help prevent cw). Only thing is you have to make sure you break them in correctly.

 

[truwarrior]

Ok I got the ACT 2100 and ACT street lightened flywheel installed. about about 30 miles, I noticed the clutch feels to slip around 10psi when just testing it driving around. Is the normal until it breaks in? Also seems to engage a bit high off the ground but that shouldn't cause the clutch to slip would it? I think I just have to mess with the clutch adjustment for that issue. Just not sure about that slipping. I havn't gone past 10psi and let off as soon as it felt like something was slipping.

 

[andymoraitis]

You're slipping the clutch because it's not broken in! If you continue to do that, you'll glaze the disc and you're screwed yet again. I would strongly advise that you reference the ACT website and look at their information on break-in period. For whatever that time is, usually 200-300 miles, lay off the boost and keep the car below 3500 RPM.

Hope that helps,

Andy

 

[truwarrior]

You're slipping the clutch because it's not broken in! If you continue to do that, you'll glaze the disc and you're screwed yet again. I would strongly advise that you reference the ACT website and look at their information on break-in period. For whatever that time is, usually 200-300 miles, lay off the boost and keep the car below 3500 RPM.

Hope that helps,

Andy

I never took it past 4000rpms. Just wanted to boost it a little and see if it would hold so I could get back home.

I also got some side motor mounts installed and front/rear sway bars so the whole car is feeling stiffer. Just wanna make sure that clutch will handle the evoIII once it's broken in and doesn't continue to slip at all. Roasted the heck out the stock clutch on one hard launch.

 

[Sotarts]

You're supposed to take it very easy on the clutch for 300-500 miles (the more easy miles, the better). EASY DRIVING. No boost and low RPM's. The disk needs to seat properly against the flywheel. You can't "make sure it will hold" until the new clutch is properly broken in. You don't need to boost to see if you can get back home.

I have a feeling that you will destroy this clutch much too soon. Maybe then you will learn.

 

[AMS Eric #2]

No way that clutch should slip under a 10 psi pull, even 2 minutes after it is installed. Sounds like the clutch adjustment could be way off causing the clutch to be pre-loaded by the throw out bearing pushing on the pressure plate all the time. I would highly suggest taking it back to whoever installed it and have them check the adjustment. Slipping with a new clutch is never a good thing.

 

[Attack Eagle]

AMEN to the above.

you have a 99 according to your profile... no crankwalk issues to be concerned about. (revised block)

Disconnect the clutch start switch if you are paranoid.

I personally am going with an ACT 2600 and street disc with a fidanza flywheel (I like the replaceable surface concept for $50 if I really kill a clutch.


I NEVER managed to kill the OEM clutch until I let a friend borrow it who was jsut learning to drive stick... apparently he was slipping the hell out of it cause after he drove it it lasted less than a day. I have felt as though it was not as SOLID as some previous cars I have owned under hard acceleration, thus the ACT 2600.

I wish you the best of luck in resolving your issue...

 

[Turbo Talon DL]

I have a feeling that you personally should have done the clutch install. I have the ACT 2100 as well, it never slipped on me when I drove my motor with 0 miles on it. I got out of the driveway and went wot till about 5k and NO slippage at all. I did a kinda hard break-in. My cluch never slipped and I would do 2nd gear burnouts.

 

[truwarrior]

Well I think I found out the problem. The clutch had an ok feel at first but then the pedal had no free play at the top and felt stiff to push instead of easy like the first 5-7 shifts. So I messed around with the adjustments and got it to fully disenage all the way on the floor, start to enage a little bit off the floor, then have free play at the top. Seems like I almost have to much free play now, but I only backed out the pedal stop switch one full turn.

I havn't tried to boost yet but it's working ok now from what I can tell. It's constantly engaging a bit off the floor but not right off the floor. I'm going to continue to break it in. It didn't slip much at all before. As soon as I felt the wierd vibration I let off so I'm hopin everything will break in good.

I was helping out the guys doint the swap since I havn't done one yet. I'm pretty confident we did everything correctly. Just the adjustments were being a pain.

 

[Turbo Talon DL]

Oh bro...my clutch does the same thing..engages right off the floor...im gonna try to fix that by using SS clutch line and extended slave cyl rod. The clutch fork might be an option as well, dsmotorsports recommends replacing them anyhow. You may not have bled the clutch properly either, or your slave cyl could be going

 

[truwarrior]

What’s the proper way to bleed the clutch? I just had someone push the clutch down and I opened the bleeder valve, closed it, then had the person pick the pedal up and do it again. I made sure the fluid always stayed full.

I wouldn’t say my clutch engages right off the floor, but pretty close. I should give it a tad more lift before it engages though and I have enough rod to adjust for it. I just want to make sure that clutch is engaging all the way for the break in period because I know the adjustment wasn’t right for the first 50 miles and slipped once or twice under 10 psi and 4000rpms.

 

[roaringsx]

Hey Jack,

It's Rich the guy that installed the clutch. Dont bleed the clutch until you get a steelbraided clutch line. We noticed that the existing fluid was dirty but due to time constraints we left it as is because you were going to get the line in the near future.

Hopefully the car feels stiffer going around the corners and well the clutch just make sure you break that puppy in before doing a serious pull.

Rich
97 GSX -----> Crankwalked
90 GST daily terror

 

[truwarrior]

Hey Jack,

It's Rich the guy that installed the clutch. Dont bleed the clutch until you get a steelbraided clutch line. We noticed that the existing fluid was dirty but due to time constraints we left it as is because you were going to get the line in the near future.

Hopefully the car feels stiffer going around the corners and well the clutch just make sure you break that puppy in before doing a serious pull.

Rich
97 GSX -----> Crankwalked
90 GST daily terror

Hey Rich, you guys rock (hope you caught up on some sleep )

Since adjusting the rod some more everything seems to be working good but I'm still breaking it in. Took it up to 8-10 psi and it didn't slip but I havn't gone WOT yet.

My friend actually called me today and he has a spare 2G clutch line. We might install it this weekend or next. What's the best way to pump all that old clutch fluid out? Just keep bleeding it? Should the engine be on to keep the bearings oiled?

Sways bars are working good. Feels like it has a slight oversteer now. Seems like where I steer the front of the car points, I think some springs/struts would help A LOT though. Up for a spring and strut install this "spring"?

Thanks again!

 

[roaringsx]

No prob man. I'm glad that you are happy with the car. Remember stay away from the heavy foot till the 500 mile mark.

Changing the clutch line is easy just take out the old and put in the new line. To bleed the system is straight forward. To drain the old fluid out leave the car off and just pump the clutch pedal till it runs dry. Install the new line, fill the line and blead it till there is no air in the system. You will like the results.

Now for the suspension, my garage is always open and you are more than welcome to swing by to do some work on the ride.

Sleep what is sleep, when we work on a car it always seems to be an all-nighter no matter if it is just a spark plug change .

Anyway keep me informed on how the car is going.

Rich
97 GSX ------> Crankwalked
90 GST Daily Terror

 

[fourgsixty3]

Jack,

This is Mario. Before you begin, check that the slave and master cylinders are not leaking. Look under the dash at the master. There should not be excessive fluid coming out of it. On the slave side, pull back the slave cylinder boot. If fluid starts pouring out, replace it. If all checks out, you're ready to bleed the system.

There is no trick to pumping out the old fluid. Open the bleeder screw on the slave and step on the clutch pedal repeatedly until the fluid no longer comes out. If you have access to a "Mity Vac" you can use that from the bottom instead of stepping on the clutch. Keep the engine off. You're not engaging the clutch when the bleeder is open.

[OT] Don't worry about crankwalk since your car is a 99 and you have a light pressure plate. Disabling a clutch switch is a good idea in any car with a manual transmission since most of the bearing wear happens at start up during which it takes a few moments to build oil pressure. Adding a heavy pressure plate to the equation only makes things worse for the bearings during startup.

If you can get a hold of some ATE Blue and ATE Gold brake fluid, it will make it easier to tell when the old fluid is out during brake or clutch bleeding(Pretty nifty; one is blue and one is yellow). Basically, if you have yellow fluid in the system, you would use the blue fluid during the next change and vice versa.

Bleeding is simple if you've bled brakes before. Bleed the system until no air is visible. Then press in the slave cylinder by hand while opening the bleeder screw to remove the air that may be trapped in there. Repeat the system bleeding until you're confident it's air free. Also note that opening the bleeder screw too much might actually suck air from the outside past the threads back into the system resulting in, "What the hell? I've used up 2qts of fluid but I still have air in there. WTF "

Hopefully this will cure your problems. I hope it's not the ACT QC problem I keep hearing about. You can rule out assembly error. The clutch fork and ball are new.

Let me know if you need any more help.

Mario

BTW, the fog was nasty and you drive slow.