Timing, Voltage Spikes, Now Can't idle. Stumbling

[Chuck98TSI]

Little precursor

Car Profile: http://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/bixley.12223/

I was getting a loud whine from under the hood and noticed the timing belt with shiny spots starting. So I change the full timing set along with water pump and adjustable cam gears. helluvah time! But it got done.

I start the car and let it warm up.. things are looking awesome but horrendous whine is still there. Also now, the voltage is at 12.0 - 12.1 with the car running. I suspected the alternator but juggling Power Steering Pump and Alternator only with engine running, the PS pump was definitely the source of the whine. Alternator also had some play in the bearing but minor whine.

I did a voltage drop test
+ = 0.08
- = 0.06

Ok. So Must be bad alternator. I find a used PS pump from a guy parting out car.. and he tosses in an alternator for me for 20$. Unknown condition hence why so cheap.

I get the items and and install. I start and warm up the car.. things are good! No whine (PS pump quiet).. Voltage is at 13.8-14.2. Awesome. I finally after 3 months get to pull the talon out of the garage. I go for a short spin around the area.. about 1KM from home my headlights flash really bright. Thought it was a trick seeing the fog was out.. but it started happening more and more often. I start heading home immediately and it's spiking, belts squealing, people think I am flashing them. Finally limp into garage but by then the car was stumbling badly.

Quickly check voltage in ECM link.. it was spiking 18v. Shut it off immediately.

Got another alternator from Junkyard this time. Pop it in. Car is idling horribly but good news, the voltage from this alternator is solid 14.2. No spiking. But something has been damaged. She will not stay running without me stepping on the gas and even if I do, it sounds like not firing on all cylinders.

I checked primary coil. little high but was like this last year. same reading
Standard: 0.5-0.99 ohms. Reading: 1.3 ohms.

Secondary Coil:
I can not get a reading off it at all. So I have ordered one.
Would the car run at all with no reading on the secondary coil?

I visually checked the ECU. There are no black marks or signs of anything blown / leaking / melted. It's pretty shiny in there. ECM Link Connects and is showing proper values for coolant so sensor ground is good.

Again, the car ran fine till spikes. So something got nuked. Is there something I may be missing?

ECU > PTU > COIL

The snow is flying and I still have to get the car to storage. If the Coil doesn't fix it. Tow to storage. Sucks.

Anything else for me to check before I give in and put her away broken? Thanks in advance.

Thanks in advance.

 

[lee98talon]

That's odd. I would assume if the secondary coil resistance tested out bad with no ohms reading will mean the coil pack is dead. Which will mean no spark.


If you suspect a misfire issue that is causing your car to run bad, you can narrow it down by starting up the car and unplugging a spark plug wire one at a time and listen to see if motor runs rougher or the same. Just don't pull the spark plug wire all the way out of the cylinder head. If the motor runs the same then that's where your misfire is coming. Also, I believe Ecmlink should detect the misfire if the motor ran long enough. Maybe check to see if you if have any CELs code that might of came up.

 

[Chuck98TSI]

Found the problem.

Adjustable Cam Gears. Intake Cam Gear Adjustment Bolts loosened. Re-centered. She idles like a champ.

Thanks all. Just happened to be a unrelated to spike in the end!! hate relationship over. I'm in love again.