timing marks wont align after new timing belt install

[nicklesmack]

Ok so im try number 4 and every time i put it back on the cam gears are always off by one tooth im using the jay racing kit and i cant get someone please tell me what i doing wrong

 

[aajj1987]

I actually just did a timing belt on mine cause I heard tensioner flopping and caught it before it jumped time... I lined my timing marks up top for taking it off. I painted the belt and gear what rib came off each gear intake and exhaust. I then took old belt to new one and painted new one to match old one. but on the reinstall I had to have someone come out and move the exhaust gear cause the lifter was moving it back a hair so it wouldn't line up perfect. I had a friend hold both steady in line while I matched up painted marks and installed no problems on running. my experience may be different but just trying to offer advice.

 

[nicklesmack]

I have the jay racing alignment tool so the gears are locked in place after i take it off and do a quarter counter clockwise turn i bring it back to the crank mark bit then the gears are off

 

[DSMDEMON93]

There is usually a specific order in putting on the belt, because when you tension the belt, the gears will shift. I believe it is on the dsm graveyard website.

 

[Cdc1221]

Vfaq dude.

 

[nicklesmack]

I printed out the vfaq its right next to me

 

[Tyeler18]

Your belt is too tight 90% of the time. What's the gap between the tensioner and the arm?

 

[1Gina2G]

make sure your keeping track of which way the cam gear tool goes in, just 1 way to be correct. make sure the cams are actually aligned when you lock them in place, use a strait edge to match the marks alignment, which the flat surface of the head, the part that meets with the valve cover.

 

[erkitner]

I know this sounds repetitive, but only trying over and over is the only way until you get it right.

Try this.

With the valve cover off, just use some adjustable wrenches to hold the cams in place. Of course, keep the lines... aligned. Usually the intake cam will stay in place when set in place by hand. The exhaust WILL need a wrench. Eyeballing the lines in-line at the same level of the top of the head is how I do it.

After all the routing is done, leave the belt off the RIGHT idler pulley. While juggling all these, use a flathead screwdriver and put it behind the timing belt. Then pry it over the idler pulley. Hardly any effort required for this. If you have to strain to get the belt on, you're doing it wrong. (And you're gonna have a bad time, Lol).

As the belt slides off the screwdriver it'll slip right over the idler.

Cycle the engine and verify timing!

Happy trails, and good luck.

Hope this helps.

 

[ScuzziOne]

I'm not familiar with the kit you're using, but the "old school" solution to this problem was to use a couple of large metal "binder clips" like you would get from an office supply store to securely clamp the belt to the tops of each of the cam sprockets while you position the belt over the rest of the gears below. What happens is that the belt gets slack over the CAM gears as you work the other gears and one of the CAM gears tends to want to slip a tooth when it gets a chance. Clamping it down keeps this from happening... just make sure you pull the clamps off once you're done!

Also make sure to double check your tensioner gap after turning the motor over a number of times to verify that it is still withing spec. This is usually where I end up having to re-tension a number of times until I get it just right!!

Best of luck!!!

 

[nicklesmack]

It was the oil pump sprocket i used a wench to put some tension on it and everything lined up after that

 

[Brian O Conner]

I am having a bi*** time with mine.

 

[gprix1]

I'm not familiar with the kit you're using, but the "old school" solution to this problem was to use a couple of large metal "binder clips" like you would get from an office supply store to securely clamp the belt to the tops of each of the cam sprockets...

Edit: Just noticed you did figure it out. I'll still leave this though for others benefit.

Do as ScuzziOne stated. I would suggest starting by laying the belt over the intake gear and then clamp (with the binder clip) it in place. Next use two 17mm wrenches to hold your gears in the proper position (dowel pins up) while you pull the belt over the exhaust gear (an extra set of hands is helpful here). Now, clamp the belt to the exhaust gear.
The timing marks on the gears should now face each other and be level with where the head meets the valve cover. From here on out you only really need one wrench on the exhaust gear to pull the two gears (now connected with the belt) as needed to keep them inline.
Next, while keeping the cams aligned, begin installing the rest of the timing belt starting from the intake cam and working down. Wrap around the idler pulley and then the oil pump gear (aligned if you have balance shafts still, otherwise doesn't matter). Once around the oil pump gear keep tension on the belt and wrap it around your (aligned) crankshaft sprocket.
Now just pop it over the tensioner pulley and you should be good.
All that is left is to set your tensioner, spin the motor a few times, double-check and button it up.

 

[pauleyman]

Do as ScuzziOne stated. I would suggest starting by laying the belt over the intake gear and then clamp (with the binder clip) it in place. Next use two 17mm wrenches to hold your gears in the proper position (dowel pins up) while you pull the belt over the exhaust gear (an extra set of hands is helpful here). Now, clamp the belt to the exhaust gear.

Funny thing is this is nearly verbatim from every factory service manual including using binder clips. It's the way I've been doing it for 20 years. Guess where I learned it. Hint, forums didn't exist in 1992.

 

[2slow4now]

I always liked using zip ties instead of clips. If you zip tie the intake gear in the proper position then wrench the exhaust to the correct position and zip tie it alot of times they will hold each other inline then. The only problem is taking them off you have to clip them but oh well they did their job.

 

[gprix1]

I always liked using zip ties instead of clips. If you zip tie the intake gear in the proper position then wrench the exhaust to the correct position and zip tie it alot of times they will hold each other inline then. The only problem is taking them off you have to clip them but oh well they did their job.

Ya, I too have used zip ties, and even two pairs of vise-grips (clamping lightly to not damage belt). Anything that can hold the belt on (without damage) will do.