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Timing belt woes (Exhaust cam off slight, crank off, and tensioner troubles)

Posted by squid267, Apr 3, 2013

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  1. squid267

    squid267 Proven Member

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    Doing my first timing belt job, aswell as 6 bolt swap. I have numerous VFAQ, and other tutorials and I just want to confirm a few things

    1) My exhaust camshaft is off by the slightest bit. It was lined up as seen here

    1364961033877_zps870d221a.jpg

    Rotate crank 6 times and this is how it looks

    IMG_20130403_005714_zpsf5755ea9.jpg

    Is this the exhaust natural tendency that the faqs and tutorials were talking about or something else?

    2) My crank after 6 rotations.

    IMG_20130402_235223_zps9d1e3c7e.jpg

    is off or am i being too ocd

    3) The hydraulic tensioner after 15 mins does not raise that much. and i can still push a grenade pin thru. some faqs say its okay, some dont. whats the correct answer here :confused:

    Thanks! hope to get back on the road asap
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  2. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

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    In the first pic it seems as of both need to be turned in 1 more tooth! It does look slightly Off but its not a whole tooth out from what I can see
     

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  3. xxNocturnalxx

    xxNocturnalxx Proven Member

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    You are off at the cam gears, both need to rotate in one tooth.
     

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  4. pauleyman

    pauleyman DSM Wiseman

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    I concur, both cams gears appear off one tooth. exhaust needs to go clockwise one tooth and intake counterclockwise one tooth.

    BTW you'll have a much easier time with the belt covers if you remove the studs on the motor mount.
     

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  5. born2tune

    born2tune Proven Member

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    that plastic guide is upside down face flipped. basically the cam marks will line perfectly if you have the plastic guide installed right, which in the first pic, it is not.
     
  6. squid267

    squid267 Proven Member

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    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014
    TermTrky likes this.
  7. pauleyman

    pauleyman DSM Wiseman

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    The plastic piece is not wrong in the first pic, teh cams are just not in the right place. The orientation of the tool was correct. As for this latest pic rotate six times, line up the crank dead nuts (hint: don't look at the came at all) and then look at them. They should be dead nuts also. My guess in that last pic if you're very slightly off on the crank mark so it appears it's off when it really isn't. Basically, I think you have it right.
     

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  8. 97grnrs

    97grnrs Proven Member

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    removal of the leaves and oily residue would be a good idea. i learned the hard way
     
  9. xxNocturnalxx

    xxNocturnalxx Proven Member

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    So you are all good now? It looks good to me.
     

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  10. Dsmkauai

    Dsmkauai Proven Member

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    So non of your pics show the cams in the right position. Imagine a straight line or better yet get a ruler and use it as your guide. The cam marks should go straight across and pretty much should go straight across where the valve cover meets the head if your looking straight on ( hope that makes sense). You need to redo your timing till its dead nuts on everytime you rotate and check. Get the cams perfect with the plastic cam tool then wrap the timing belt around over the idler then oil pump them crank pulley then tensioner pulley. Do you have the other tools for the timing kit? What are you using to tension the tensioner. If this isn't done right you will mess up your engine no way around that bro!!
     

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  11. Cdc1221

    Cdc1221 Proven Member

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    Not necessarily. Mine I redid three times, started the engine, had idle surge, then did it again. I couldn't get all four timing marks to lay out straight. At all. It just seems like its a half-tooth off. But technically it can't be. You want to rotate the exhaust can to where its already starting to push two valves, then rotate the intake can back so that the marks align, then use the belt with two clips to hold the tension while you route the belt as described above.
     

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  12. Dsmkauai

    Dsmkauai Proven Member

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    You only need to worry about the two inside marks lining up perfectly straight. Which in the o.p's situation hasn't happen yet from what I see. But in all honestly all 4 should make a straight line like in this pic.
     

    Attached Files:

    Drag Race Build 810  2

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi
    fwd · automatic · 2G DSM

    6K  0

    1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
    13.7 @ 101 · Galant VR-4

    4K  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    12.408 @ 112.930 · 2G DSM

    2K  0

    1998 Eagle Talon TSi
    manual · 2G DSM
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  13. Cdc1221

    Cdc1221 Proven Member

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    Yea that's what kept making me reset mine. I could get the two inside marks to line up, but then all four wouldn't be in a straight line. But you're right. By the the first set of pics, ex can was retarded one tooth. Couldn't see the second set.
     

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    · 1G DSM
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  14. squid267

    squid267 Proven Member

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    All set guys. Here some tips for other people in this situation

    1) Even with plastic tool you may need to rotate exhaust, and possibly intake inward a little bit (Depends on how exact your tool is)

    2) Ziptie both exhaust AND intake cams, so the slack is between exhuast cam and tensioner pulley

    3) if there slack between oil sprocket and crank you will be out of phase when you tension the pulley.

    If you're having issues just come back it later, you wont get perfect first try. Took me 3 days!

    Good Luck!
     

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