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timing belt slipping during install

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Gerg

Proven Member
124
4
Dec 19, 2012
Cheyenne, Wyoming
I'm in the middle of changing my timing belt. I have used the fsm for guidance however I'm having a problem with the belt wanting to slip off. After installing the belt around all the pulleys, and tightening the tensioner center bolt with a special tool the fsm says to turn the crank a 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then back clockwise until all the marks line back up. When I go to turn the crank counter clockwise the belt just wants to slip off and make the engine go out of time. I just want to make sure im not making a stupid mistake that ends up destroying my motor.
 
Could you take a picture of what your set-up looks like? But sounds a little weird with the belt over the top to cam gears, then in between the tensioner and idler pully then to the crank. That's all it should take to stay on.
 
Could you take a picture of what your set-up looks like? But sounds a little weird with the belt over the top to cam gears, then in between the tensioner and idler pully then to the crank. That's all it should take to stay on.

Let me upload a couple photos real quick, but that's what I would think too but it seems like there is resistance from the cams. Like the cams dont want to turn while the crank does, and this causes the belt to get too much slack in it.
 
I had this problem not to long ago and it was driving me nuts. It sounds silly but the bolt for the tensioner arm had actually come a little loose. Always the silliest things.
 
I had this problem not to long ago and it was driving me nuts. It sounds silly but the bolt for the tensioner arm had actually come a little loose. Always the silliest things.

Hey thanks I'll check over everything again and make sure its all tight. Hopefully it is something small, Im having trouble trying to upload pictures at the moment.
 
The way I do it is wrap the timing belt over the cams, around the idler, oil pump, crank, tensioner pulley, then there will be slack at the end so I made sure my exhaust cam was half a tooth higher then the intake cam. Make sure you ziptie the belt to the cams then pull the grenade pin. Wait about 15 minutes check it....I feel like I'm forgetting something though
 
The way I do it is wrap the timing belt over the cams, around the idler, oil pump, crank, tensioner pulley, then there will be slack at the end so I made sure my exhaust cam was half a tooth higher then the intake cam. Make sure you ziptie the belt to the cams then pull the grenade pin. Wait about 15 minutes check it....I feel like I'm forgetting something though

According to the factory service manual your forgetting quiet a bit. The way I did it was:

Put belt over cams and lined up the intake cam and exhaust, checked with a straight edge then clipped the belt by the marks on the outside of the cams.

Then I routed the belt around the idler pulley, and set the oil pump sprocket one tooth back. I put the belt around the sprocket and it moved one tooth forward as I put the belt around the crank.

I put the belt around the tensioner and then put pressure on the pulley using a tool with two small pins. The pulley ended up with the two holes vertical like this : I tried to tighten the center bolt while applying pressure.

In the fsm it states to turn the crank counter clockwise a quarter turn. I followed this step and this is where the belt wants to slip off the crank as I turn. The belt is really loose right now.

I'm going to recheck all my bolts and make sure they're torqued right, I feel like such a noob but I would rather look stupid and ask questions then ruin a good engine.
 
The way I do it is wrap the timing belt over the cams, around the idler, oil pump, crank, tensioner pulley, then there will be slack at the end so I made sure my exhaust cam was half a tooth higher then the intake cam. Make sure you ziptie the belt to the cams then pull the grenade pin. Wait about 15 minutes check it....I feel like I'm forgetting something though

I always use binder clips, two each cam, one on each side. Quick and easy.
 
So the problem is that the valves are really bent. I moved the pistons to the middle of their stroke and then tried to spin the cam. I would have to put quiet a bit of force to move the cam and then it would spring forward.

This is unfortunate however I only bought the car for $350. It has/had quiet a bit wrong with it, but I also have another wrecked 1g that I've been able to get a lot of parts from. I guess this means I'll be swapping out the motor next.

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Well the exhaust manifold is off doesn't that relieve pressure from the exhaust side? I'm almost positive the valves are bent.

Removing the spark plugs will relieve pressure.

Edit: my fault I am thinking relieving pressure when spinning the crank, yea spinning the cam gears takes a bit of force.
 
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