1G Timing belt question

[Sbgriffin]

So I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the right forum, but the topic seem to fit the best. So here it goes.
So I'm starting to second guess my timing belt install on 1 point. I've actually been in there twice now. Because I didn't replace all the seals, and the balance shaft seal was leaking. Both times it was the same. I'd work the timing belt around how it says on the vfaq's and my manual. Also using a cam gear lock, so I don't question those marks. Working it over the idler pulley, oil pump sprocket, crank, and last the tensioner pulley. To this point all is lined up perfectly.
So I move to adding tension to the belt as the manual says. Checking my work on each step. But always after adding tension. My crankshaft mark is off just a slight bit, with everything else lined up. And I mean it still real close. It's just on the edge of the notch. So is this normal after adding tension? I would think if I was a tooth off it would be much more noticeable? Another reason I'm second guessing myself is my car's vacuum in/hg is borderline low(15-16). And I've done many boost leak testing/fixing. So basically Im needing others feedback to justify tearing it back apart? Thanks in advance.

 

[Sbgriffin]

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So I just went and tried something. I pulled the cam gear lock tool, then rotated the crank back just a hair (less than a degree). And all is dead nuts now, or at least I think it is? I really don't think it can be any closer.

Like someone has already stated. If your head has been excessively decked that can play a part. I know this head has been milled twice, so maybe that's all it is?

Also there's a pic of my harmonic balancer, it's starting to separate for sure. But I'm thinking it has a little life left in it. What your thoughts? Unfortunately it's gonna have to wait. I'm pretty strapped right now, trying to buy my first house.

 

[Sbgriffin]

Is the crank timing disk snug, not loose is it or wiggly? Other than that, if you move it one tooth it sure looks like it will be way off. I looked back at my build pictures and mine are almost dead on. And your crank keyway is perfectly straight?

And yes the plate is solid. And keyway is straight up. Pretty sure it's all good there.

 

[pauleyman]

Your way over thinking this. If the tensioner is correct you're done button it up

 

[luv2rallye]

Your way over thinking this. If the tensioner is correct you're done button it up

Agree.

 

[Sbgriffin]

Alrighty, back together again. So one the biggest reasons I was concerned is having low vacuum at idle (16in hg). So I've been on a quest to find out why? So I've done a recent compression test (156-158 across), I've boost leak tested (all is well), & now confirmed my mechanical timing is correct. So what else could it be?

 

[ChessmoDSM]

Seriously brother, running with a bad HB is just hand grenade waiting to happen, that being said, how does it run/idle sans the low vacuum? Is that the reason you did the timing belt job or is the low vacuum a result of said job?

 

[GST with PSI]

That's perfectly fine. 99% of the timing belts I've done are off a bit like shown in your picture. I would have cleaned up some more of that oil, but you'll be good to go. Put it back together and run it.

Make sure you check your base timing at some point.

Regarding the low vacuum, what cams are you running?

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[Sbgriffin]

Oh it idles fine, but acts a little sluggish off idle til about 2500rpm. Then it pulls pretty hard. Could just be turbo lag I guess. And I originally did my timing belt about 8 months ago. I bought the car after it had a timing belt failure, and it bent all the exhaust valves. It was proof of why not to go with cheap timing components. Took me several months of work to fix everything.
This go around, I was just checking my work after second guessing myself. And I had everything nice and clean, oil free. Had replaced all my oil seals on the front. But for some reason the crank seal is still leaking just a hair. It's kinda frustrating. But I'm just gonna run and enjoy my car for awhile.

 

[Sbgriffin]

That's perfectly fine. 99% of the timing belts I've done are off a bit like shown in your picture. I would have cleaned up some more of that oil, but you'll be good to go. Put it back together and run it.

Make sure you check your base timing at some point.

Regarding the low vacuum, what cams are you running?

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Just stock cams, and I have my base timing set@5 btdc.
The residual oil in there im kinda frustrated with. Had it all spic and span and few months back. Replaced all the oil seals on the front. But the crank seal is still leaking just a dab. Never even leaves a drip on the concrete. So I've given up for now on that. I'm guessing the crankshaft has groove wore into it, although I didn't see one. Or maybe I botched the seal driving home.
When I have a little more money, I'm gonna pull my engine. Freshen up the bottom end. Make it exactly how I want.

 

[pauleyman]

Just out of curiosity how is your boost gauge plumbed? Did you use the nylon line that usually comes with a gauge?

 

[Sbgriffin]

Just out of curiosity how is your boost gauge plumbed? Did you use the nylon line that usually comes with a gauge?

Yes It is, is this not good practice? And it's tee'd off the FPR vacuum line. I've been kinda suspect of the gauge it self too. I've never had experience with a Stewart Warner gauge before. Are they any good?

 

[pauleyman]

Nylon leaks. Ditch that crap. Run a solid one piece rubber line directly from fitting to fitting.