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Timing belt jumped way off when cranking I think

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Kalisko

15+ Year Contributor
267
0
Mar 19, 2008
Lawrenceburg, Indiana
So today I ran out of gas when I moved my car from one parking spot to another. I noticed it did run a little sputtery and when I came out after my shift it wouldn't start :sosad:

My gauge said quarter tank LIAR
I had to walk home and I am sad panda
I was wondering why that tank of gas lasted a little longer than usual.

Who wants to give me a ride in the morning to dump some fuel in my car ? :hellyeah:
 
So last night I ran out of gas (I thought).
My gauge read quarter tank.
So I went down to the station and got 3 gallons of fuel.
Went to my car and dumped it in.
I tried to start my car for about 10 - 15 minutes (not full time, just cranking for 6-10 seconds every 1-2 or so minutes.)

I've now ruled out that my gas ran out, but rather my fuel pump took a poo.
I Doubt it's the filter because I've only ran premium gas and I put a new filter in last year.

Does anyone else concur, my fuel pump went pooie (stock fuel pump from a 2g gsx).
 
My AWD did the exact same thing at 1/4 tank it was empty and at 3/4 it was full. I switched out the sending unit with another one and all was good. On mine there was a wire broken that sends info to the gauge. It only takes about 30 minuted to change on an AWD.
 
We don't know that. We're not psychic. Putting gas in the tank verifies absolutely nothing except that you now have gas in the tank. Check for fuel, spark, compression, and timing.
 
Timing jumped -_-...

Well it wasn't fuel. I got back down to my car in the daylight, and checked timing.

WOW it was way off. this pic is at TDC too.... I'm hoping it didn't wreck anything. My only thing that might save me was I think it jumped time when I went to start. It almost started then sputtered and quit.

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Supposedly the two VFAQ Methods are a little different.

The 1g method is explained a little better than 2g, and I used the 2g one when setting timing last week. I hope all is good
wish me luck! pulling it apart tonight.
 

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Sigh..


Another DSM died from poor maintenence.


:ohdamn:

Your head is more then likely toast, by the way.

Thanks for the "helpful" tips.


Look, I'm not the perfect person, but I know I set timing right. And the only thing I had questionable on the setup was with the tension.

Below Is pics on how I set it up originally. Now correct me if I'm wrong but they all look lined up to me, except the exhaust cam which is pushing off the springs due to not having the belt on at this second.
 

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How funny would it be if he is looking at the wrong notch on the intake side, notice how the exhaust side has that nice white notch and the intake has a clear notch, both notches should be white but thats just me and its 4am at work.
 
well the one on the intake cam that I highlighted was the part that's supposed to line up with the head at 3'oclock.

There's two per cam guys...the lighter one is supposed to match the other cam's light one when at TDC.while the clear one is on the other side. I just highlighted that one because you could see it better. the other notch was below the timing belt cover.

I made a mistake when setting tension, and I realize that now. the manual really doesn't give you a good explanation when setting tension, thus I messed up. It said "Move the tensioner up/right. not ROTATE.

But anyways..I got it tensioned correctly last night. :thumb:
 
Yeah at first I used the 2g vfaq. But when I went to set tension I couldn't follow as it told me to rotate it counterclockwise.

So I went to the manual I had, which said Move it up/right(not rotate). between the two I got really confused and I didn't know what to think.

This time I used the 1g, which made life a little simpler when setting tension.

Thanks

It's timed right now....buut..I'm so mad. :(


Compression test follows

1 2 3 4
0 70 110 135
 
Well guys. I pulled the head.

This is my findings. Do you think my pistons are ok? The cylinder walls still look great and nothign is scorched. Still very glossy from the rebuild. The only thing I think is questionable is the top of the pistons where the valves hit.


Piston 1
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Piston 3 and 2
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Piston 4
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Do you have pics of the head how do the valves and guides look? The previous owner of my 1g skipped a tooth cracked all of the intake valve guides and bent 1 valve. I got a reman head for around 350 with shipping worked out great. Also the grooves in the pistons are there stock for valve clearance if they did hit there might be imprints next to the groove from the valve...there was on mine:notgood:
 
The valves are pretty much wrecked. I'm in process of getting a reman from slowboy racing.

I have another post on it. This was a post about how I thought I ran out of fuel, until I pulled my timing cover. :ohdamn:
 
I bet you've got a gangsta lean like me now.
 

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Guy I bought my car from had this problem and never fixed it, so I took it off his hands, in the beggining I was just gonna swap the valve and do a valve job, but then I found cracked valve guides, if you have cracked valve guides dont try to press them yourself they are a PITA, machine shop will likely charge a lot for this job, check out some used head prices on ebay/junkyard/or classifieds before you even start tearing into the head it may end up being cheaper for you.
 
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