Timing belt issues

[99 gst spyder]

Put new timing belt on. When car is on, the cam gears are wobbly from right to left. Belt is also moving a little to the motor side, belt is rubbing against something slowly be slowly. This is the second time I've done this and second belt.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

you have adjustable time gears or stock?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yes are they stock or aftermarket? They shouldnt move.

 

[Fitzi722]

OP, did you buy just a new belt, or did you get a kit with pulleys and a new tensioner?

I did the same thing when I first did the belt on my 1G. I must have set it 4 times before I realized my tensioner was shot and wasn't putting enough tension on the belt. I went out and bought pulleys/tensioner after that. Reset the timing for the 5th time and it worked like a charm.

Those little auto-tensioners are a b*tch if they aren't working right.

 

[99 gst spyder]

you have adjustable time gears or stock?

I have stock cams gear and cams.

 

[empie1]

I have stock cams gear and cams.

You didnt answer the question. Did you replace the tensioner and tensioner pulley?

 

[99 gst spyder]

OP, did you buy just a new belt, or did you get a kit with pulleys and a new tensioner?

I did the same thing when I first did the belt on my 1G. I must have set it 4 times before I realized my tensioner was shot and wasn't putting enough tension on the belt. I went out and bought pulleys/tensioner after that. Reset the timing for the 5th time and it worked like a charm.

Those little auto-tensioners are a b*tch if they aren't working right.

I bought just the belt. The cam gears are not moving just the belt. Looking at it, you can see that the belt is swirling from left to right a little bit. Which tensioner are you talking about? The arm or the blue tensioner in the middle?

You didnt answer the question. Did you replace the tensioner and tensioner pulley?

Sorry I didn't get the tensioner and pulley.

 

[empie1]

I bought just the belt. The cam gears are not moving just the belt. Looking at it, you can see that the belt is swirling from left to right a little bit. Which tensioner are you talking about? The arm or the blue tensioner in the middle?



Sorry I didn't get the tensioner and pulley.

The hydrolic tensioner and tensioner pulley should be replaced. Clearly you dont have enough tension on the belt other wise it wouldnt walk like that. When looking at the pulley, the two holes where the tool goes in will be at aprox 11 and 1 oclock. Also, if you have proper tension, the grenade pin or nail that you have in the hydrolic tensioner should be able to be removed and put back in with no resistance if you have the proper tension.

Not that the hydrolic tensioner is the piston looking thing under the arm that keeps the arm in the right spot.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Do it once or do it again, get all timing components if you dont you may regret it late with a new head job. Parts are cheaper than a new hg, and new arps alone or stock bolt so get the new parts.

 

[99 gst spyder]

The hydrolic tensioner and tensioner pulley should be replaced. Clearly you dont have enough tension on the belt other wise it wouldnt walk like that. When looking at the pulley, the two holes where the tool goes in will be at aprox 11 and 1 oclock. Also, if you have proper tension, the grenade pin or nail that you have in the hydrolic tensioner should be able to be removed and put back in with no resistance if you have the proper tension.

Not that the hydrolic tensioner is the piston looking thing under the arm that keeps the arm in the right spot.

i'll recheck that 11 and 1 o'clock thing. the hydrualic tensioner pin hole is higher. cant put a pin through it no more. should the pin hole be allign when done and shouldn't the pin hole be higher after backing off the tool for the tensioner to rise.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Youll be sorry when something fails sooner than later, were here to help.

 

[red_talon]

you should of have replace the timing belt tensioner along with the balance shaft belt as well. these things are somewhat expensive but is worth it. check the belt location on the pulley and make sure you line up every mark correctly. check your oil pan bolt because if the bolt is in the wrong position, it will rubb against your timing belt.

 

[empie1]

i'll recheck that 11 and 1 o'clock thing. the hydrualic tensioner pin hole is higher. cant put a pin through it no more. should the pin hole be allign when done and shouldn't the pin hole be higher after backing off the tool for the tensioner to rise.

No. The hydrolic tensioner is not what is actually used for tensioning the belt, it is actually technically a "back up" tensioner so to say. The belt is tensioned by you setting it with the pulley with the two holes in it. Like i said in my other post, if you have the tension set properly, the pin will be able to freely move in and out of the pin hole. Even if you have drove the car for a while. If its not lined up either you set the tension wrong, or did not tighten the pulley bolt to the proper torque spec...or the hyrdolic tensioner is shot.
You need to set the timing with the pin in the tensioner. Once timing is set and you have the pulley belt torqued down, the pin should freely move in and out. Remove it, and turn the engine over by hand, i believe its 6 rotations before all the marks will be aligned again. Double check to be sure its still timed, than let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Check to see if everything is in the same spot and if its correct the pin hole will still be lined up.
You need to replace the tensioner and pulley. This really isnt something to cheap out on. Tensioners fail over time.

 

[99 gst spyder]

No. The hydrolic tensioner is not what is actually used for tensioning the belt, it is actually technically a "back up" tensioner so to say. The belt is tensioned by you setting it with the pulley with the two holes in it. Like i said in my other post, if you have the tension set properly, the pin will be able to freely move in and out of the pin hole. Even if you have drove the car for a while. If its not lined up either you set the tension wrong, or did not tighten the pulley bolt to the proper torque spec...or the hyrdolic tensioner is shot.
You need to set the timing with the pin in the tensioner. Once timing is set and you have the pulley belt torqued down, the pin should freely move in and out. Remove it, and turn the engine over by hand, i believe its 6 rotations before all the marks will be aligned again. Double check to be sure its still timed, than let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Check to see if everything is in the same spot and if its correct the pin hole will still be lined up.
You need to replace the tensioner and pulley. This really isnt something to cheap out on. Tensioners fail over time.

i will recheck everything that's said here. really great info. hope i'll have it figure out.

so when backing off the tool from the tensioner arm after tighten the tensioner pulley to spec, the arm shouldn't move up from the hydrolic tensioner right? so then the pin hole should still move freely in the pin hole in and out. if so then i guess i must have tighten the tensioner pulley too much, b/c now, the pin can not go in freely through the pin hole anymore. the rod in the hydrolic tensioner moved up more after taking the pin out.

 

[empie1]

i will recheck everything that's said here. really great info. hope i'll have it figure out.

so when backing off the tool from the tensioner arm after tighten the tensioner pulley to spec, the arm shouldn't move up from the hydrolic tensioner right? so then the pin hole should still move freely in the pin hole in and out. if so then i guess i must have tighten the tensioner pulley too much, b/c now, the pin can not go in freely through the pin hole anymore. the rod in the hydrolic tensioner moved up more after taking the pin out.

Actually given the fact the belt is flopping around, that would mean you didnt tighten the pulley enough. The hydrolic tensioner piston moved to compensate, making the pin hole no longer lined up.
Likewise, if you over tight the pulley, it will actually compress the hydrolic tensioner piston just enough so the pin hole will also fail to line up.
Basically, the pin will only freely move when the exact amount of tension is on the belt. Its kind of a cool little "test" to ensure proper belt tension. I dont even use that stupid threaded rod. I just turn the pulley with a ratchet and the tool while wiggling the pin ( i actually have 2 of the grenade pins they come with, the ones that are a cirle on the end). Once the grenade pin feels super loose, i tighten the bolt. One more thing i might add, usually when i am torquing the pulley bolt, it will make the pulley move just enough where it adds a little more tension. This used to be obnoxious because than the grenade pin wouldnt move freely and i would have to start over. To compensate, when i find the proper tension, i back off just a bit, than hand tightn the bolt. This way when i torque the bolt, the pully moves to the exact position it supposed to be in...kind of like finding the "sweet spot". Like i said, the holes in the pulley should be at aprox 11 and 1 o'clock. Hopefully this didnt confuse you. Its not hard once you do it a few times. You will see what i mean.
I cant stress enough though, that you really should replace that tensioner. You could have very well set the tension properly and the hydrolic tensioner or pulley are shot. If your tearing it down already, you should just spend the $150 and enjoy the peace of mind.

 

[99 gst spyder]

ThaHks empty1. That was very helpful. I'll take a look and let you guys know.

 

[empie1]

ThaHks empty1. That was very helpful. I'll take a look and let you guys know.

Lol..no problem..and its "empie1"

 

[cantgo2fast]

Im having issues with this too. I have a brand new tensioner (no pulley) My tensioner rod is all the way out as well.

If I can get the pulley holes to 11 and 1 o'clock and the hole in the piston rod is lined up am I good to go? timing correct obviously. Where do you find that funny pulley tensioner tool if i need it? Ive just been using my hands/small prybar to move the pulley around.

 

[slacker83]

You will need to order the tool either from miller or jay racing, I have the miller one and have bent the prongs that go into the pulley. I have heard people using needle nose pliars to do it but I have always had the tool.

 

[empie1]

Im having issues with this too. I have a brand new tensioner (no pulley) My tensioner rod is all the way out as well.

If I can get the pulley holes to 11 and 1 o'clock and the hole in the piston rod is lined up am I good to go? timing correct obviously. Where do you find that funny pulley tensioner tool if i need it? Ive just been using my hands/small prybar to move the pulley around.

Yeah as long as the lines are lined up and everything is torqued. Did you read anything I wrote? I pretty much explained the whole process several posts up..
Go to jay racing or miller for the tool.

 

[cantgo2fast]

Yeah as long as the lines are lined up and everything is torqued. Did you read anything I wrote? I pretty much explained the whole process several posts up..
Go to jay racing or miller for the tool.

Read every bit of it, just double checking.

 

[DSMTyson]

Um, you need this stuff.

Timing Belt
Balance Shaft Tensioner Bearing
Balance Shaft Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner Bearing
Timing Belt Idler Bearing
Hydraulic Tensioner Adjuster (casting #533)
Tensioner tool

Bold is if applicable.

I always get my timing components at www.partsdinosaur.com , he has the best prices.