Timing belt issues..very depressed

[Deadly BlaZe]

Ok I need some opinions on what you guys think is going on.

I had my timing belt changed by my friend's mechanic (he did it for free for me). I got the car back, test drove it, and it drove like ass. The car hesitated really really badly consistently. Obviously he put it on wrong. So they took it apart again and put it on again. My friend said it was off 1 tooth the first time. This time my friend helped the mechanic put the belt on since he is more knowledgeable and I trust him. Anyways, I got the car back today and there are still problems with it and they are:

1. Idles some-what rough, although not horrible.

2. Vacuum jumps up and down from 15-20 inhg on idle. Before they touched the car, it stayed at a steady 18-20. Which is what it's supposed to be at.

3. On deceleration, the vacuum jumps around from 19-21 inhg, before they touched the car, it stayed at a steady 25 inhg. Which is about what it's supposed to be at.

4. The biggest issue is the turbo spools like ass. Will barely reach 5 psi by 3k rpm. Before they touched the car, it would reach 15 psi by 3k.

5. On the upside, the car does not feel like its "pulling timing" (meaning it doesn't hesitate) this time. But it's just so slow cause of the shitty lag.

My friend is confident that the belt is on right, nothing is damaged, and that the timing just needs to be adjusted.
My main worry is that I damaged valves cause the vacuum is not what it should be. What do you guys think? Any input is appreciated.

 

[My1GLaser]

First thing I would do is a compression test to put my mind at ease. If you have bent valves you will know right away and it would be obviously low.

Is there any chance that they took off the CAS for some reason & it is inverted?

Do you have adjustable cam gears?

If your ignition timing is off it will give you some of these issues.

I am not sure about the vacuum fluctuation except for vacuum lines not being hooked back up after the t-belt replacement. Every mechanic is different and there is no telling what he disconnected to do the timing belt.

Do you have an AFPR? Mine is on the dr side and the vacuum line would be in the way for a t-belt replacement.

 

[Deadly BlaZe]

Well the car is all stock, except for a boost gauge at 16psi, intake and exhaust. But yeah i'll have to check compression. And hopefully it is just the ignition timing.

Anybody else have any ideas?

 

[webconnect]

Those are all symptoms of boost leak. Perhaps something got budged. I have to tighten my clamps down every morning because texas is cold in the mornings and very warm in the daytime.

 

[1ghaaaaaw]

yeah id start simple,,, do a compression check, just to be safe, and if thats fine to a boost leak test, sounds to me like your leaking somewhere killing spool up, good luck tho.

 

[Defiant]

Your free timing job was worth every cent. He got it wrong.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

Your free timing job was worth every cent. He got it wrong.

sad reality.

 

[Deadly BlaZe]

Your free timing job was worth every cent. He got it wrong.

Gee, I wonder how you came to that conclusion.

sad reality.

How about some actual useful advice?

And no it doesn't look like a boost leak. I checked all possible hoses and nothing has been disconnected.

 

[blackGSX2g]

How about you run out and check the timing marks. Pull the upper belt cover off and turn the engine over by hand until the white notch on your crank pulley lines up with the big T on the timing belt cover. Then see if the lines on the cam gears run perfectly straight. If you can take off the lower timing cover yourself to be 100% sure it would be way better, but assuming he put the crank pulley on right this way will at least tell you if there is something grossly wrong.

 

[Deadly BlaZe]

How about you run out and check the timing marks. Pull the upper belt cover off and turn the engine over by hand until the white notch on your crank pulley lines up with the big T on the timing belt cover. Then see if the lines on the cam gears run perfectly straight. If you can take off the lower timing cover yourself to be 100% sure it would be way better, but assuming he put the crank pulley on right this way will at least tell you if there is something grossly wrong.

How exactly do you turn the motor over by hand? Sorry i'm a noob

 

[elfroggo]

By turning the crank

 

[blackGSX2g]

Stick a 1/2" breaker bar or socket wrench into the bolt that holds the crank pulley on...it's the big bolt right in the middle.

 

[Deadly BlaZe]

Stick a 1/2" breaker bar or socket wrench into the bolt that holds the crank pulley on...it's the big bolt right in the middle.

K thanks

 

[MountainDew]

I think it should be a law that every DSMer works on their OWN car.

 

[92eclipsered]

OK i have some info and need some info i have a 92' automatic non-turbo 2.0(don't laugh). Tranny went out so i had it replaced (with a jdm one) they said the timing slipped and i needed to pay them to have it corrected basically, so yesterday i go to pick it up, start it and it sounds like crap and when i put it in gear it dies unless i keep my foot on the gas at all times, and when stopped i have to keep one foot on the brake and the other on the gas to keep the rpm up so it doesn't drop too low and die and THE IDLE JUMPS A LOT. Drove it right down the road to a mechanic shop cause the tranny guy says he will pay for it if he did it. The mechanic says he thinks it might be the cas (crank angle sensor). I know the timing was off a little while i was driving it before and noticed a lot more power driving it to the shop yesterday. My guess is the cas was off with the timing off and all that needs done now is the cas to be adjusted. what do you think

 

[spyderturbo007]

K thanks

I know I might be a little late, but make sure you turn the crank clockwise. If not, you might jump the belt.

 

[DSMsOwnYourV8]

I think it should be a law that every DSMer works on their OWN car.

Agreed, or take your car to a reputable mechanic. I've always worked on my own car, or took it to jack when I didn't have the time.

 

[MountainDew]

Agreed, or take your car to a reputable mechanic. I've always worked on my own car, or took it to jack when I didn't have the time.

Yeah I just hear so many horror stories from people taking it to a shop or mechanic that isn't very knowledgeable. They probably work on the N/Ts all the time and think "oh it can't be much different.."

Honestly with this website and all the others, it's very easy to do some of the most tedious work on your car by yourself. Then again I've pretty much read every tech article on here while I'm bored at work.

 

[92eclipsered]

when you adjust the timing you pretty much have to adjust the cas or else have a bad idle
rite?

 

[MountainDew]

when you adjust the timing you pretty much have to adjust the cas rite?

You need to do both regardless, but the timing belt procedure is way different and way more complicated then setting the base timing on the CAS.