Timing belt is off half a tooth and won't line up, please help.

[t3t4turbo]

I just got done bulding my new 6 bolt motor and relised the t belt on the exhaust sproket seems to be about half a tooth off. It is up half a tooth compared to the intake side.

I have been told to leave it this way casue I may be able to recive some performance incresse on theses stock cams. Is this true and safe? Dont need to do another valve job casue I just got done with one tonight.

Every time I try to realine the marks it ends up allwese the same, about half a tooth off at TDC. I have tryed it lke 30 times now and same result every time, I even tryed puting the mark a tooth forward thinking maybe it would drop back and aline up but it didnt, it just stayed one tooth forward.

 

[halligoo]

I had the same problem. I had to take 2 rubber trigger type squeeze clamps and hold the belt on the cam sprockets. 1 for each sprocket. The Manual explains to use two open end wrenches and hold the sprockets, but unless you have a helper, forget trying that.

 

[t3t4turbo]

I had the same problem. I had to take 2 rubber trigger type squeeze clamps and hold the belt on the cam sprockets. 1 for each sprocket. The Manual explains to use two open end wrenches and hold the sprockets, but unless you have a helper, forget trying that.

I tryed that and its fine right affter I put the belt on, but as soon as I turn the crank over a full rotation is is off again.

Thanks for the help though

 

[t3t4turbo]

have the crower valve springs and retianers, and yes, the cam sprokets are bolth the same.

I checked the tention all around the belt and it seems to be good, the tentioner is brand new and seems to have full pressure.

You think it could be the extra tention from the afftermarket valve springs?

 

[halligoo]

The only thing that comes to mind is if you have the plunger type tensioner and you aren't waiting long enough for the plunger to extend fully onto the mating surface of the tension pulley before cycling the crank. My first one took me about 2 days to figure out. Now
it is about a 2 hour job.

 

[t3t4turbo]

The only thing that comes to mind is if you have the plunger type tensioner and you aren't waiting long enough for the plunger to extend fully onto the mating surface of the tension pulley before cycling the crank. My first one took me about 2 days to figure out. Now
it is about a 2 hour job.

I tryed that, still wont line up, I even tryed pulling the t belt forward one tooth with tention on the belt and it still will go back to being one tooth off.

Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, any ideas what I am doing wrong here?

 

[BUCK]

- My 2 cents on Tension Setting - latest revision.

- Set Sprockets & Balance Shafts per VFAQ - EXCEPT....

-May be necessary to BIAS = Mis-Time Exhaust Cam Sprocket ONE Tooth Clockwise - Belt Tensioning process will roll it back into time.

-Don't forget to apply Soft Loctite or RTV to Tensioner Fasteners & apply Final Torque.

-Run ALLTHREAD Tool in until Tensioner Arm Bottoms against Tensioner Body.

-Basically you preload the Eccentric Tension Pulley enough to achieve the correct Gap between Tension Arm & Tensioner Body - So...

-PRE-LOAD the Eccentric Tension Pulley & snug Pulley Bolt (I used soft Loctite on this Bolt too) - My favorite Tool to apply the Load on the Pulley is a Square Shanked Screwdriver that lays on one of the Water Pump Bolt Heads nicely for leverage.

-Back off ALLTHREAD TOOL a few Turns letting the Tensioner Tension the T/Belt.

- This is a good time to Spin Crank 6 Turns so Timing Belt can take it's initial SEAT in Sprocket Grooves.

- Stop at TDC & check Belt Timing Marks - This is where you may see that you have to regroup on initial Timing Belt installation & Bias the Belt as I said at First.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If gap is too large you have UNDER TENSIONED BELT.

- Don't forget you have ALLTHREAD tool is there to help you hold what Tension you've got SO RUN IT BACK IN TILL IT TOUCHES.

- IF UNDERTENSIONED put MORE LOAD under Tensioner Pulley with long Screwdriver & SIMULTANEOUSLY loosen Pulley Bolt, putting more Tension on Belt & Snug up Pulley Bolt while applying Load.

- Now DON'T forget to back Allthread Toll off a few turns so Tensioner can apply Tension.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If Pin checks Sat apply Final Torque to Tension Pulley Bolt & RECHECK TENSION SETTING .

- If Gap is too small you have OVER-TENSIONED Belt - Back off Tension Pulley Pre-Load a little.

- Install just enuff Belts & Pulleys to run Water Pump - attach Battery charger & run Motor with NO Timing Covers & no Alternator.

- Immediately when you get it running Check Oil Pressure & Reset Base Timing & Idle as it comes up to Full Running Temp - Start off with CAS at middle of adjustment - Check for Coolant & Oil Leaks - Check your new Water Pump & Water Pump O Ring, etc, etc...

- After a good hot idle or 2 re-check Tension with Grenade Pin & Button up Covers if all is SAT - Expect to see one good stretch as Belt heats up & sets in & one good re-setting after initial idle.

Love, Buck