timing belt help

[thesmartestyet]

i just replaced my head gasket and now im trying to put my timing belt back on but im having trouble. do i need to replace the hydrolic tensioner in order to put the timing belt on? if not what what can i try

 

[tfoti]

You don't HAVE to replace it but you SHOULD. If re-using it because it is new, you have to slowly compress the rod in a vice and put a very small allen key into the hole to keep it compressed. Then you remove it when the belt is on and timed correctly. Follow the vFAQ. VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions

 

[thesmartestyet]

alright thanks thats what i needed to know

 

[BUCK]

alright thanks thats what i needed to know

Actually that's just the START of what you need to know...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

 

[rb25det510]

Keep putting tension on the pulley until you can feel the grenade pin on the auto tensioner begin to loosen up (because you are now pushing down on the autotensioner arm). This is generally accepted as the "safe" tension for the belt. DO NOT use this as a sole judgement as to how tight your belt should be. You need to measure the tensioner gap between the rod and the auto tensioner body.

Once you get the grenade pin to spin freely, go ahead and take a wrench or socket wrench and tighten the bolt down to 35 ft/lb. At this point you want to verify that all timing marks are still on point. One thing to check is if the cam timing marks are still straight. If they are not, you may want to rotate the exhaust cam one tooth to offset the "natural" movement.


to add to what was stated in this part of the explanation when you get to the point where the pin spins at a slippy loose point you then tighten down the 14mm bolt on the tensioner pulley. after that you let it sit and adjust for a few minutes and at that point the pin probly won't spin freely and you will have to loosen the 14 mm bolt and reset the tension on the pulley. you do this process until it spins freely when you come back from letting it sit / adjust. i learned this part from a highly respected master tech at a mitsu dealership that i worked at. that is how you correctly set the tension of the belt.

 

[thesmartestyet]

do you have to have the pully tool?

 

[Splitpi]

user name chbuzz on ebay sells the pulley tool. Fast shipper too.... if your interested.

 

[rb25det510]

do you have to have the pully tool?

in order to do it the way i explained it yes.

 

[klipschaudio]

I've done 2 tb changes on a 1st and 2nd gen with no special tools, reusing the tensioner (not leaky) and had no problems. If this is a 1G check out the other (I believe balancer) belt behind the timing belt, they do break, and are twice as narrow on 1G. Also, when putting the timing belt back on, remember to point the arrow on the oil sprocket up and see that it falls CCW, if you do it CW, you WILL have vibrations over 4K rpm, and you will have to redo it. Good luck.

 

[rb25det510]

I've done 2 tb changes on a 1st and 2nd gen with no special tools, reusing the tensioner (not leaky) and had no problems. If this is a 1G check out the other (I believe balancer) belt behind the timing belt, they do break, and are twice as narrow on 1G. Also, when putting the timing belt back on, remember to point the arrow on the oil sprocket up and see that it falls CCW, if you do it CW, you WILL have vibrations over 4K rpm, and you will have to redo it. Good luck.

well those special tools are used if you choose to replace the tensioner.

if you do leave it so the gear falls clockwise then you will have vibrations at any rpm and it get progressively worse as they go up. you can also pull off the 14mm nut on the back of the motor and insert a screw driver in and if your 180 degrees off the screw driver wont go in all the way. and if it doesnt go in all the way it will only go in about an inch maybe less it will go in about 2 1/2 or more if you have it turned right.