The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Timing belt and the crank sprocket

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Outdorsman

Proven Member
338
0
Oct 17, 2012
Las Vegas, Nevada
Everytime I try and tension the damn belt the crank sprocket moves getting the car out of time. I've followed the vfaq to no avail because it really only applies to 6 bolts when I try to follow it. The timing marks on the vfaq are completely different from my 7 bolt. Pretty much gave up unless I can find out whats wrong. Last thing I want to do is call a mechanic but the way things are going, its going to happen :/. I followed the vfaq but when I get to tensioning, everything goes to hell and the car is put out of time again and I have to restart. I've attempted it at least 20 times yesterday and today. Any ideas? Am I just retarded?
I don't want to resort to putting a breaker bar on the sprocket just to keep it still but if thats how to do it I will haha.

I've followed 4 different timing belt guides and none have produced results.
 
ECMTuning, Inc.


this one is for the 2g. I bought a manual when i timed mine it was straight foward for someone at the
time who had no car experience.

ecm link? Isn't that for tuning not timing belts :p?

I read it may be from the slack betwee nthe oil sprocket and crank but I've tried to fix it but it still does it. Or am I just tensioning it too much, I'm using pliers.
 
When you time it, how many teeth does the crank sprocket jumps?.

You are doing something wrong,,,,,, However, lets say you are right, If you are doing all right, then fallow this.

Just count the teeth off alignment and reduce it from the crank marks, Let's say, if the crank sprocket jumps 2 teeth forward when you finish timing it, then align the mark 2 teeth retarded, so at the end the timing mark will end up on the right spot.

Hope this helps.
 
When you time it, how many teeth does the crank sprocket jumps?.

You are doing something wrong,,,,,, However, lets say you are right, If you are doing all right, then fallow this.

Just count the teeth off alignment and reduce it from the crank marks, Let's say, if the crank sprocket jumps 2 teeth forward when you finish timing it, then align the mark 2 teeth retarded, so at the end the timing mark will end up on the right spot.

Hope this helps.

Bout a half to 1 tooth.
 
Just keep trying, usually I have to offset the cam sprockets a little so that when its tensioned it all lines up. It's all about seeing how far the marks go out of alignment when you tension it, then go back and install the belt again knowing how the marks will move and by how much. Once you get it perfect they will all line up after you put the tension on. I ran into this too the first timing belt I did and didn't catch on till the 5th or 6th attempt.

Make sure you rotate the motor by hand a bunch after you install the belt and you think you have it, then check the marks, then let it sit for 15 minutes and do it again, if its all lined up after the second time turning it over then you are good to go.

ECMTuning, Inc.


this one is for the 2g. I bought a manual when i timed mine it was straight foward for someone at the
time who had no car experience.

This is for timing it, but its not needed.

Unplug the injectors and have someone turn over the motor, then time it while they are attempting to start it. This will keep the ecu from adjusting the timing since the car is cranking.
 
Your right about the slack between the crank and oil pump. try to put the crank 1 tooth advance or retard (depends which way its turning) ahead, Then work the belt on going in the same direction. I believe its 6 times you rotate the assembly were it should come back to how it was. Sorry if its alil unclear. Hard to explain with out being there haha
 
After 4 hours today and 33 attempts, I finally got it :D I'm ####ing done. Hopefully whjen I start it my car doesn't spontaneously catch on fire, blow up and leave me with a broken car again. I'll turn it by hand to make sure i'm not hitting valves.

I took out the grenade pin and am waiting 15 minutes before measuring the distance. Following Paul's guide to make sure I didn't screw up.
 
Please read it carfully. You still have to rotate it. I think I made it clear. You should be 100% certain things are right before you ever turn the key. If you aren't certain then you didn't read what I wrote.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Rotated it 6 times, did it again just to be safe. Measured the tensioner using the drill bit method, all checked out. Ihave the balance shafts deleted, timing marks line up with the crank sprocket marks. I'm still a little iffy about it since its my first t-belt job so I'm double checking everything.
 
Once you've rotate it and the tensioner checks out all that is left is the marks. They are right or they are wrong. No in between. If they are right they are right. Nothing to be concerned about. I've never once been nervous about firing up a car that I had just changed the belt. Why should any of us be?
 
Thanks man! Your words of wisdom are very much appreciated. I'm sure I have everything timed correctly and adjusted. ALl timing marks line up, I didn't hear any metal hitting so valves are fine. And I finally got the stuck oil filter off with the hammer and screw driver method.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top