Timing Belt advice..

[Dave Chan]

Canada eh?

Hehe had to say it. Good luck man!

Anyhoo wow i have a story here...It's pretty long!! hahaha

i took it to like the only machine shop nearest to me and he was looking at the head and he said "yeah it doesn't look to bad" and he told me to leave it with him for a day so he can further inspect it to find out the "real" damage and he quoted me at about 400 or so with the rebuild. So he says "alright i'll call you tomarrow morning and tell you what the damage is".

Tomarrow rolls along and no call... so i go to the place around 4pm and he's like oh i haven't took it apart yet, give me an hour so i can check it out, so i said okay. Then I come back and he starts saying.. I got all the prices and shit and WOW your head is gonna be expensive to rebuild! more than audi or mercedes benz heads. Then he took out his "sheet" with all the prices.

Apprently i need all 8 intake valves replaced and ACCORDING TO HIM each intake valve is $88 and then i need 4 exhaust valves replaced and he tells me the exhaust valves are 62 bucks each. THEN he tells me i need all my valve guides replaced and he tells me there 42 bucks each!!!! so like we calculated all this crap plus labour and its gonna cost me like 3000++ dollars to rebuild the head!! along with replacing lifters and port polish as well as some more things. Like what the F#$@# i told him i can get this stuff on the net for WAY cheaper. Then he goes on to tell me OH WHERE? so i tell him the website partsdinosaur.com and he has a pc there so we go on it! and he CLEARLY sees that the intake valves are liek 7$ and the exhaust valves are 8$ and the guides are only $2.50!!!!
This is the funny part... he stalls for a little bit..but then he goes on saying OH these are for chrysler parts though! you need mitsubishi parts!! thats why my quotes are expensive
your car is an import!! i'm not getting you that cheap chrysler stuff!! then i said what the hell are you talking about?? my motor is 420a it's techincally a chrysler! and hell!! when you went on the damn website it cleraly says MITSUBISHI PARTS!! and you clicked on MITSUBISHI 420a but i guess that doesn't matter right?
Then he says well if you don't want to do it with me i'm gonna charge you 200 dollars for my 1 hour of labour for taking your head apart. then i go on to say did you even take my head apart?? let me c it~ then he goes on to say i can't let you in the back shop! so i say then go get it let me see it! and he says there's too many parts laying around so it's a hassle. I pretty much told him off and i left and yeah he was some old bastard~

All in all... my cousin managed to find me a 420a motor in the states for $750 it's from a 99 eclipse with 103,000 miles and free headers, so i went ahead and purchased that!! my cousin is coming on march 30th from conneticuit so i'll have it then!! i couldn't find ANY 420a motors around my area plus the surrounding.. called many junkyards and nothing!
you guys in the states are lucky! u have easy access to mitsubishi parts and all.. well better than me! so tomarrow i'm gonna pull out the bottom end to get it ready and next week i'll be putting the new motor in! on the new motor i'm gonna do the timing and a few other things ^__^

that's my story and sorry for my rant! hahah and YES he still has my head! and he's never called me back to tell me to come get it! i think i'm just gonna leave it there and save up some money later and buy a new head on ebay or something.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Go get it. He can't charge you for taking it apart if he doesn't prove that he actually did it, and had you authorized him to do so, it shouldn't be back together unless you specifically told him you were going a different route with it and wanted it back. You can still sell it even if you don't use it. Or use it as a spare to build and throw on the eclipse when the time comes.

 

[Dave Chan]

Hello all!!
well i've finally put my new engine in and it starts... kinda hahaha
we fired it up with a little bit of hesitation probably from no fuel in the lines yet but eventaully when i tapped the gas a bit it started out okay...
it was running on idle fine for liek 4 seconds and eventually it just started going weird on me....1100rpm to like 200rpm up and down.. and my engine is choking bad...the exhaust smoke doesn't come out smooth it has erratic putts and its not really pure white smoke its just hazy...
and the car feels like it wants to die but the rpm's will just shoot back up to like 1300 or so then idle around 1000-950 making the erratic sputtering.. for a few minutes.. then drop to like 100rpm and at that time my car sounds liek its gasping for air badly.. then the rpm will shoot back up.. when i turned the heat on.. my car idled perfect!! but eventaully after 10 minutes it started bucking but not as badly with the heat off.. so i took it out for a drive and it drives fine ^_^ but when i come to stops in netural sometimes it will drop to like 100rpm and sound like its gasping for air... then shoot back up in rpm.. or i can just tap the gas to raise it...
the spark plugs and wires and coil pack are fine cause it was from my old engine and it was running awesome until i bent valves.. everything else that came with the engine i left... like the intake manifold, injectors. and the sensors...
i did a search and most people say its the Idle air control or thorttle position sensor??
but any imput would be really appreciated!!

thanks a lot guys!! you've all really helped me a lot this far!!
OH and before i put the engine in.. i installed a new water pump and did the timing belt.. i very positive the timing is not off because everything was aligned correctely before we put the T-Belt on.. and me and my dad checked it sooo many times before dropping the motor in.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

Try swapping your MAP sensors and seeing if that makes a difference. I would say it's some sort of a sensor problem. Just have to start swapping things if you have them from the other engine.

 

[Locke]

I agree with Mike. Also, make sure the IAC is nice and clean.

Any backfires or anything else not right with it that may help us be more specific?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

You're sure all vacuum lines are secured in their correct places?

 

[Dave Chan]

hi all!! thanks for the replies!!

today i swapped throttle bodies with the sensor's on it too, with my old one.. since i know that works and i also cleaned it and the IAC.. i changed my fuel injector harness andn i ran fuel injector cleaner. the sputtering still remains -_-
it's actaully a little bit better then before.. it starts up fine... i drove it today quite a bit and it didnt die on me.. it just would "somtimes" drop rpms fast when i came to a stop fast..
the idle is around 850 - 750rpm (my old engine had a steady rpm like this) and the needle on the speedometer stays steady it just makes the constant sputting noise like a muscle car on idle.. no backfires.. no white,blue black smoke.... at times on idle the rpm would jump to like 1000-1100rpm and go back to 800rpm then it will somtimes go down to liek 300rpm and make that noise like it's gasping for air then shoot back up..

so pretty much i changed my TPS and IAC sensors and cleaned the IAC motor and swapped throttle bodies and cleaned that too. Changed my fuel injector harness... but not the injectors. Changed my spark plugs as well with correct gap.
i noticed the HG on my vacuum gauge reads like 9-10hg on idle but i remember my old car it was around 15hg... im pretty sure anyways... and on my S-AFC my intake manifold pressure at idle reads at about -233 but on my old engine the pressure at idle was about -470
I'm pretty certain the vaccum lines are all in place but i'm stumped..

 

[Locke]

10 is low vacuum. Try a compression and leak down test to determine why the vacuum is so low. Your new engine may need some work.

 

[Dave Chan]

i changed my map sensor and the air temp sensor (i think that's what its called heheh)
and the idle is good! its smooth but it just makes a fart type pulsating noise like from the headers it sounds just like my cousins GSX haha
but yeah the idle is smooth now.. the only problem that's left is the low vaccum and we;re gonna try and tackle that this weekend.. but other than that the car drives fine~
im not sure what mods the previous owner had done on this.. it just came with unknown headers with the down pipe and high flow cat and a unorthodox underdrive pulley

i'm getting a check engine light.. but i heard about this keydance thing and many ppl doing it.. how is it done? i've tried searching

 

[adammethner05]

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=PCM Error Codes

Here you are good sir. This should contain everything you should ever need to know about keydance. I've used the keydance before and it worked for me, so hopefully it'll help you determine what problems your engine is having. Good luck

 

[totaleclipse_05]

I'm glad the MAP sensor helped a bit. I would definitely figure out what that CEL as it might be the culprit. It says you have a 98 on your profile and I'm not sure if the keydance works on 98-99's. Give it a try and if it doesn't work, stop by an Autozone or another autostore in your area and have them pull the code for you.

I also don't remember reading, but have you swapped in a new O2 sensor at all yet?

 

[Locke]

I cannot say for others, but the keydance does not work for my 99.

You may have burned valves or seats, if the vacuum is low and sounds odd in the exhaust. I still recommend a compression and/or leak down test.

 

[Dave Chan]

hi all thanks for the replies!!
I did the key dance and the check engine light did not flash at all.. then i disconnected my negative for about 5 minutes and when i started my car.. theres no check engine light anymore!! its gone now~~

as for 02 sensors i still have my stock front and rear on.. but it worked well on my other car so i don't think that could be the problem... ill try swapping them out if i can order a new one

also i have to get my car e-tested for my licsence plate sticker renewal.. they did not preform the test because they say i have a bad exhaust leak... could that be causing my low vaccum?

the car has headers and a downpipe with high flow cat~~ and i can smell the exhaust fumes bad... its not gassy or anything its just that carbon monoxide smell...
and i noticed that near where the downpipe is going to connect to the manifold there is some kind of sealant and we took it to a muffler shop and he says the leak is probably there...
i'm bringing it to the muffler shop tomarrow so they can check it out more better since i took it to them when they were about to close~~

 

[Locke]

Exhaust leak will not cause low vacuum. Low vacuum will be caused by super bad rings, bad HG or cracked head/block, worn valve seats, damaged valves, incorrect cam time, plugged exhaust, or a large intake leak.

A fluctuating vacuum at idle would be something cylinder specific.

Where are you checking the vacuum? It may be a bad line.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

The CEL will come back. When it does, take it to a place to get it pulled to see what it is. I'm sure it will help out with your problem, don't unplug the battery to get rid of it.