Timed 7 times is this ok

[Kalisko]

Hey guys I recently swapped a new head and new everything for the top end, and I am in the process of finishing it up.

I timed my car about 7-10 times last night triple checking EVERYTHING.
However, I can only get it this close no matter how many times I do it.
With the cams in time perfectly, my balance shaft is perfectly on time, but my crank sprocket is off by a hair. it is still in the boundaries of the "V" notch, but barely.

I just wanted some assurance if this is ok.

Thanks

 

[TFFC]

Yeah, Looks good, you have let it sit for at least 15min and checked your tensioner height? Also spin it over 6 times and make sure they line up agian, if you feel any resistance. STOP!!!!!!! your prob hitting a valve, If all clear and everything lines up. Shes good.

 

[snowborder714]

As long as your dowel pins are at 12 o'clock on the cam gears, I'd say it looks good!

You made sure the oil pump is in time, correct?

 

[Kalisko]

Yeah I did the vfaq method for making sure the oil pump was in time regarding the balance shaft being in phase.

I had a vibration for almost a year that the shop that installed my motor didn't know what it was, even though he's done "over 100" 6-bolt swaps. .

But yeah I threw the timing mark at straight up and it fell towards the timing mark,



You're still going to feel resistance, right? I didn't hear any pinging, but I did have a little bit of resistance here and there (spark plugs are out) and then it got easy for half a turn or so, and then built up small resistance again about half a turn later, etc.

 

[snowborder714]

Yep, the small resistance is normal when the plugs are out.

 

[Kalisko]

Ok tffc spooked me a little ..Thanks I'll update you guys later and post pics on how much more clean my engine bay looks

 

[Red97Eclipseboy]

I just did mine last summer, and I'll agree with everyone else. Looks good.

 

[1SickAuto]

looks good to me as well, but the crank gear looks like its a a half tooth off, but it could be the camera angle too. good luck.

later
jesse

 

[b00stedtalon2]

Yeah your fine. Start it up!

 

[snakeyes711]

I concur Doctor. The patient should make a full recovery. Let us know how she did when you get her off the operating table.

 

[Kalisko]

Just about done!

I have to wait for my valve cover gasket which arrives tomorrow..
But!
Here are some before and after photos! Enjoy.

 

[Kalisko]

So it runs!
I think it has a vacuum leak, cause it sputters at idles a little bit.
on throttle it's almost perfect.

Well I pinpoined the hose that's leaking but I ran out of time and I gotta hit the sack in a few, but i tried to get it to stop leaking (unused hose that the shop had the MAP sensor hooked up to)

it's idling at around -9 or -10 mm Hg
I think it used to idle at around -18 to -20mm Hg

I'm stoked, my headers are turning gold too it looks real nice.

First head swap done!

I'd post a vid, but my phone video camera only takes quicktime format vids.

Thanks to DSMtuners, I've gotten plenty of advice, help, and answers to my many questions. Without you guys, I don't think I would've even thought about doing these major things myself.

To all of the members!

 

[toofast82]

Congrats!
Get the vacuum issue sorted and you'll be good to go.

Hopefully finishing this job will give you confidence to continue to attempt things on your car you haven't tried before.
Now lets get some feedback on the Cyclone intake

 

[tsiAWD91x]

just so you know and to be absolutly certain, run a string across your cam gears from exhaust to intake they should be completely strait UNTILL you get to the OUTER notch on the INTAKE cam (outside notch facing the firewall) it will be 1/2 tooth off UPWARDS i have done a million timing belts and that is the trick that will get it dead on ever time:.FYI they its impossible for them to be 100% even because of how some fall between tooths and some on tooths, also if you dont have ballance shafts the oil pump dont mean jack #$% just the cams and crank markers if you a tooth off it can scew your engine up over time and produce a shit load of carbon build up

IF YOU WANT A PICTURE ILL BE GLAD TO POST or call me

 

[kahl23]

I saw a few things in the "after" pic. One, you are using worm-drive clamps. Those are sh*t, t-bolts can be found very easily and are 100x better than those worm drives, I would replace those ASAP. Two, you are using a rubber hose to connect the compressor outlet to the LICP, not only is that not the best from a performance standpoint, but you're running it right past the exhaust manifold, with no method of shielding it from heat. I would be very surprised if that lasted for more than a few hundred miles before melting. The exhaust manifold gets glowing hot when you go WOT for any period of time, and you're routing a rubber hose right past it. Also, there will be a lot of heat transfer from the manifold to the charge air, which is just ineffecient. Can I ask why you decided to route your piping that way? It looks like you're using a 16G-style turbo, why not run a J-pipe?

 

[Kalisko]

The original intercooler that the shop welded together wouldn't fit. I'm going to take it to an exhaust shop and get a full pipe connected. I just don't have the means to put it on a trailer right now. Basically it'll be on there long enough to get a full pipe re-fitted around my new manifold.

But for now, it' should be ok. I used it for about a half an hour last night and it wasn't even phased by engine bay heat yet. The hose is good for up to 30psi and very high temperatures.
Today I'm going to finish building my boost leak tester so I know if it is actually holding pressure or not, that's my main concern til i can get it to a fitting shop.


As for the cyclone intake, I'm tying it open until I get the means to throw on a wastegate actuator. It should be within the next month's time.

 

[Kalisko]

Well, I found the vacuum leak culprit I think..

Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: Mitsubishi :: DSM :: Do It Yourself Parts :: Gaskets :: 1G & 2G Magnus Intake Manifold Heat Barrier Gasket

I don't know how I didn't see this when I torque'd down my intake..but lookie here! I'm no expert, but that looks like it's a good spot for an air leak to me. I checked the rest of the intake, and except for that corner, the gasket sealed fine.

What can I do to fix this...any sealant that'll hold temperatures and a good vacuum?

I really don't want to pull this thing apart because I bought a more expensive gasket that didn't fit right..

 

[snakeyes711]

J. B. weld! It fixed a intake leak just like that. I used the 5 minute stuff. It sealed it right off, and will withstand heat.

 

[kahl23]

That deflection of the thermal barrier is normal, it is probably not your leak. Mine does it and it definitely doesn't leak.

 

[Kalisko]

I'm mid-process of buildling a boost leakdown tester so hopefully I'll figure it out soon . Just got back from the store with the parts Updates soon

 

[Kalisko]

Well I cranked the PSI to 5-15 PSI. My mechanical boost/vacuum gauge doesn't even move during this, I guess because I have that much escaping air....

I do have a good amount of leak coming from the driver side intake manifold to head area...
I don't know why It's getting that much of a leak. Everything is torque'd to spec and the gasket sandwiched perfect.

Getting 150PSI with a compression tests yield it's not the head gasket
Also it is at TDC while this leak test was occuring.
I think I'm going to start this leak testing in sections, Barring off the end of the IC piping, and testing it til i wrinkle out the leaks, then put it through the whole system to figure out the intake area leaks.

Now that My rubber hose band-aid really won't hold pressure. Where's a good place to pick and buy intercooler piping kits? I'm only going to need to fit in halfway to the inlet on the intercooler, so I will need maybe 5 to 6 sections of pipe including the jpipe

Thanks

 

[juanpac0]

Make sure none of your valves are open during the BLT or else all the air will escape past them.

 

[snakeyes711]

Yeah, I was going to ask about that too. Rotate the cams so that the intake came time mark rotates facing the engine. Thats about where it needs to be at when the valves will be closed. Also work back start with the tester at the throttle body. Fix leaks found on the manifold. then work back to the turbo to fully test for leaks. It may help a bit to test one area at a time for leaks.

 

[Kalisko]

Alrighty!

It's been a week or so but I've found the culprit!
The car runs great now .
It was all this one nut I didn't torque down all the way. Clumsy me. It left a very small amount of room in the intake gasket to head mating surface.
Idle is now at 18-20 mm Hg!
I did a boost leak test to find it, but i do have a small leak coming out of the compressor housing. Where would I Just find a flange for the turbo compressor outlet. The one that bolts to it.
I need a flange that just sticks out about 1-2 Inches so I can hook up a coupler and get some real intercooler piping for that section where I put the radiator hose for now. My flange isn't a perfect circle any more, from where the shop welded it to another pipe ( It bent it ).

Edit: my turbo is the small 16g. 14b/16g Flange is what I need. THanks
Here's the bolt that wasn't torqued me.

 

[snakeyes711]

Good news. I found a bunch of leaks after I installed my front mount. The j pipe had bad leaks where I welded the flange to the 180* pipe, and I sealed it with some black high temp, and a newly cut gasket.

I still need to redo a boost leak test because I could hear a small one but not a bad whistle like it was sounding. Also my logger trims say low trims is 95.5% the high trim is the same. I may do that some time this weekend.