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2G Throttle Position Sensor bad?

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SPEEDY

20+ Year Contributor
614
0
Apr 7, 2002
OK... I just had my computer scanned for a check engine light that kept coming back on everytime I reset the computer thinking it was because of my test-pipe. It said the TPS was bad. So... now as I type I'm on the hunt down for one, but anyways the question that I have is, what is the effects of continuing driving the car with TPS being bad? Will it hurt anything severe or what? Thanks!!!!
 
I got the top (upper facing) clip off with my knife but I can't get to the bottom one with all the electrical harnesses and the fuel rail in the way. There is a bottom one right? :confused:

Edit: Ok, I'm stupid. I just stuck a paper clip under the clip on the side facing the rear of the car and popped it out. Fell down onto the tranny though, but I got it back with a magnetic screwdriver.
 
how do you properly adjust the TPS??? my car is having some wierd idle and driving problems. the idle oscillates between 1500 and 1000 rpms and unless your always accelerating, the injectors will shut off untill it hits a lower rpm, or you give it alot of throttle. it threw a CEL and it was code 14. TPS or the harness or the closed throttle position switch. i'm going to replace it, but how do you properly adjust it?
 
mitsubluetalon said:
how do you properly adjust it?
On a 1G you adjust the TPS until it outputs about 0.5v on pin 2 (spec is 0.48 to 0.52v). That's the same as reading 10% on a datalogger. The IPS shouldn't be adjusted unless somebody have messed it up. You should check that it has continuity to ground when the throttle is closed and not when the throttle is slightly opened.

On a 2G the TPS is adjusted by where the internal IPS opens and closes not by any specific TPS voltage.

If you search you find a post where I explain why you can't set the TPS by resistance as suggested by the aftermarket manuals and the VFAQ site.

Steve
 
my car is now ding the same thing. it only starts doing it when the car reaches 213 degrees. at that point the car bucks and goes crazy over 1500 rpms. while still, i push the gas and the car fluctuates from idle to about 1500 rpms all the way to full throttle. At that point is when the car throws the P0120 code. my logger shows that the tps isn't regsitering. Again it only does this when the car's temp reaches 213 degrees. before that the car runs fine. while cold we unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the car started acting the same way. so thinking that was the problem i got a new coolant temp sensor but the problem is still there. i have tried everything and am at a stand still with this car. i have put another tps on there too with no luck. help!!!
 
well i have tried most of that and it still does it. something is telling the computer to do that at 213 degrees but can't figure out what. if i unplug the coolant temp sensor it will do it instantly so i replaced that with no help. still has the problem. so for now, just so i can drive the car until i get it fixed, i took out the thermostat. that way the car won't reach 213 degrees. seems to be working fine now
 
Hello,

I just had my engine rebuilt.
I have 1 Gen. While I was driving it home the other day, the throttle stuck.
I pulled it over and lifted the hood. I moved the throttle and it went a little stiff and made a click noise. It went back to normal. The throttle then moved fine.
I started it back up and went home. Then the check engine light came on.
I read the code and it says that the TPS unit is faulty.
The engine ran ok but rose up to 1100 rpm then down to 700 rpm back and forth then black smoke and it misfired.
I changed plugs and it runs ok again but I know that the mixture is off.

To change the TPS on a 1 gen, do I have to remove the fuel rail or not??
And why can't I just mark where the old one is and install new sensor.?

Is there any place (like VFAQ) on replacement?? (not just to adjust it).
I have searched the internet. I wish VFAQ had a complete article on TPS replacement.

BTW, I may go get a used one. The new units are $$.

thanks -

Ikeyrs92
 
I did mine the ghetto way...I put the TPS on, loosened the bolts, manually pushed the throttle body cable so it's at WOT, and rotated the TPS as far counter-clockwise as it could go, then tightened them up. I figure doing this, when the car's WOT, the little things inside are going to rotate the moving part of the TPS all the way...could be wrong, but it stopped throwing a CEL. Haven't gotten a logger on it or anything to confirm that it's at 100% at WOT.
 
The ECU really doesn't care much if it reads 100% at WOT or 90%. There are very few checks for any absolute voltage and most of those are in the fault routines for the TPS.

On a 1G the correct adjustment is so that the TPS outputs 0.48v to 0.52v when the throttle is closed. This will show up as about 10% on a datalogger.

On a 2G the TPS output voltage has a wide specification because the critical adjustment is where the IPS internal to it opens and closes.

The specifications for the TPS also allow for a wide range in total resistance. This is one of the reasons you can't set the TPS to some fixed resistance contrary to some aftermarket manuals. The correct resistance with the throttle closed will depend on the total resistance of the TPS, so unless your old and new TPS are identical they may be in different positions when adjusted.

You can change the TPS without out removing the fuel rail but it's a real PITA. Reaching the bottom screw is a problem.

Steve
 
Thanks Guys,

I replaced the sensor without moving the fuel rail.
I hooked up to the meter and did the adjustments and runs good now!

It was a real tough job and I hope that I never have to change it again!


Thanks for all the info.

very useful.!

-ikeyrs92
 
My car throws a CEL only when the throttle is closed. Once I press the throttle is goes off, and then about 5 seconds after I lift off of it, the CEL comes back on. Will I just need to adjust the TPS on there, or should I just replace the sensor?
 
hey my buddie has a 2g that had the same problem with his check engine light. kept throwing that tps code, he was venting his greddy bov and i told him to recirculate it then clear the code, and he hasnt had a problem since. He recently took his rubber hose off and is venting his bov cause he likes all the attention but now his check engine light is back on and it is the same tps code.
 
Im throwing code 0014, but its only when cruising, anytime i go WOT the CEL goes away... But I cruise and the light comes back on all the time, everytime I use DSMLINK to see the DTC, it says Tps circuit malfunction 0014. TPS is good, wiring is good. Im wondering what else could do this... Ecu is good. Its getting annoying, because Im running 12.4 at WOT when it flickers on. Its destroying my tune, and potentially my engine. Any suggestions accepted as gold!
 
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