Thoughts on if these clutch items need replacing

[stud3737]

Backround: installed a new 2100 competition clutch and light weight flywheel. I have a bit of clutch drag around 6300rpm. I bled the system a few times and adjusted my assembly 2 times. I looked at the rre pic of if you need to shim the pivot ball but the pic compared to what I have sort of confused me. Also my pedal assembly is ok and I can get into every gear no problem. Feel dumb posting this but I need you guy's help since ya'll have dealt with this more than me...
Master cylinder

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Clutch fork

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the angle on this photo is goofy

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I am guessing my slave has never been replaced and I am not sure about the master. Should I just replace my slave and master or does it look like my pivot ball needs shimming? I have a decent gap left between the hole in the transmission and the clutch fork when I push my pedal all the way in (if that even makes sense). My slave rod doesn't come out all that far

 

[97gsxIA]

Ok as far as replacement clutch parts, there is some consideration to be made.

First you should put your car up on jacks stands, and perform a clutch drag test, and properly adjust your master cylinder rod (your master cylinder is not leaking from the boot, so it looks to be in good shape) If your engagement area for your pedal is anywhere but 2-3" off the floor, and your on the edge with your master rod threads or still having clutch drag.. pay extra attention to the next area I will talk about.

Look at your clutch fork without pressing the clutch pedal. It should be towards the drivers side of the rubber boot it sticks out from. Over time, your pivot ball, clutch fork and flywheel step will wear (which is what the little adjusting valve in our master cylinders adjusts for) When it goes beyond this window it will cause clutch drag issues, and you must either replace your pivot ball and clutch fork or add a washer or two to your current and worn pivot ball.

As your photos indicate, your clutch fork is pretty spot on in the middle. Which is common to see, but not ideal. You want it a little more to the right.

I would recommend shimming your pivot ball, but others might say you could be fine with a master cylinder rod adjustment (personally I think is band-aid fix since its not really fixing your clutch fork problem, but rather compensating for it and putting wear on your synchros)

So IMO, either shim your current pivot ball, or replace your pivot ball and clutch fork.
And always readjust your master cylinder rod after replacing clutch components.

ALSO, NEVER try to fix this with a longer slave rod.

Which brings me to you slave cylinder: it looks old, you could replace, but it most likely wont fix your issue (perhaps help a little)

For clarification on your clutch fork position see the image below:

 

[stud3737]

Thank you for all your help! Do you think I should try my slave first and if no change I will do my pivot ball and fork.

I'll get a new pivot ball, then there is no shimming required, right? Since its a different clutch than stock I want to make sure, I DON'T want to be taking the tranny out again.... Also, do you think I should get an oem fork or a competition clutch forged one?

 

[97gsxIA]

You will have to pull the trans to swap out the clutch fork and/or pivot ball.

You can try a combination of replacing the slave, and adjusting the master cylinder rod, but i would recommend the following:

Pull the trans.
Since you're pulling the trans, you can also pull the clutch off and check your flywheel step height. (Which is what I would do just for peace of mind)

You should be just fine with replacing the pivot ball or shimming the one you have.
I replace clutch forks as peace of mind as well. No point in taking it apart to have to do it again 2 months down the road.

The whole idea of doing this is that if the clutch fork is not in the right position, THE ONLY sure way to fix it is by decreasing the amount of travel the clutch takes to engage the flywheel back to spec (i.e new pivot ball, shimming the pivot ball, flywheel with prop step).

Either way if you choose to shim or replace, you still need to bolt the trans up and check the position of the clutch fork. If its not in the right spot, shim the ball and recheck. Then put it all back together.

 

[stud3737]

Okey doke, I will be getting a new competition forged clutch fork that includes the pivot ball. Since the flywheel is brand new when I got it and has only about 1000 miles on it, wouldn't the step be ok?

 

[97gsxIA]

Okey doke, I will be getting a new competition forged clutch fork that includes the pivot ball. Since the flywheel is brand new when I got it and has only about 1000 miles on it, wouldn't the step be ok?

Most likely. But did you check the step when you first put it in?

 

[stud3737]

No, I did not check the step. I assumed it would be correct since it was brand new and put my trust in the company I guess

 

[luv2rallye]

Okey doke, I will be getting a new competition forged clutch fork that includes the pivot ball. Since the flywheel is brand new when I got it and has only about 1000 miles on it, wouldn't the step be ok?

Should be but I've occasionally seen it wrong. Sometimes mixing different venders parts (flywheel, PP, disc, fork) causes fork to not be in proper place in window (as does resurfacing flywheel) so shimming pivot ball may be necessary.

Getting the new fork is good - the fork is what wears (where it rides on pivot ball) way more than the pivot ball does. That's why many people just shim the pivot ball as an easy fix rather than buying a new expensive fork.

 

[stud3737]

Thanks for the info man! I've been using the same brand for all my parts (competition clutch). I think I'll just dish out $87 for a new competition forged clutch fork and it comes with a pivot ball. Then I don't have to worry about if I shimmed it correctly the first time. Get it done and over with and then new parts dosn't hurt anything either

 

[boostback]

much easier to do the replacement now then have to do it all again in a few months

 

[stud3737]

much easier to do the replacement now then have to do it all again in a few months

Exactly why I want to get all new parts