Thinking about this for years..now i'm ready but have much to learn

[turboglenn]

Well..like i said. i've been thinking about this for years.. AUTO, but not the "stick it in "D" and go" auto either (i love rowing the gears of a manual box through a set fo turns)

But due to my leg and back injuries and reconstructions, i can't seem to shift "coordinated" as i use to, and also end up in pain from the clutch at lights and such or just long daily drives and need a "recovery period" after a night cruising the 2600

This is i want as many gears as possible (prefer 4 + locking converter) but i THINK i'm limited to 4 counting a locking converter on a 2 g (and 3 with no locker on 1g)

can both the 1g and 2g autos be equially built and is there an advantage to one over the other?

THis is because i want something close to a "full manual valve body" but wonder about this line pressure mod i hear about and if you can turn that on and off at will from a switch?????

I have a nice paddle kit built for the stock wheel that fits like OEM (sorry can't see it till i bring it out cause some one will run it before me if so )

Are these things possible? (maunal valve body and switchable shift line pressure?)

My other sickness in the mind of me a gearhead is i no longer want AWD.. I wanna set my sights on being one of the fastest FWD 2g cars with AC and power steering still intact.. Idon't mind riding around in a gtted tin can (i hope to afford a new and kept stock DD in the next year or two and keeping this forever as a track car/toy as i've fallen in love with the DSM platform over 13 years) as well as the challenge and "fight" to drive a fast FWD on public roads safely (eventually it will be complete tube frame converted since FAB work is my hobby and living)

I know how to take an auto apart and do clutches. have installed stick shifts, and even know how to make my haltech control the converter lockup. what i dont' know is how to setup the 5speeds to shift at high RPM the way the big three guys seem to be able to with bearing preloads and such. But i've rebuilt many manuals including some DSM ones.

I have the quaife LSD in my TRE 2.5 trans and could drop that right in my auto and I already have slicks and rims for my FWD DSM. Now although I said i wanted an HY-35, i have to be honest, the more i drive this new turbo i'm loving this PT6776RS on the street with a manual like a kid with a new toy. But, i'd love to be cliking WOT no lost boost and no clutch/shift timing or pressure on my reconstructed left leg and injured back, no drive train disengagment of any kind.. I just have to learn from you all how to get them off the line quickly without nitrous every time (if that's possible) And what else i need to look at learnging is something i need to know

I figure i'll keep my 5spd TRE or sell it sans diff to buy what i need for my special auto setup (for those of you who have a mental picture when i say "clutch flight" you'll know where i eventully want to take this, but for now i have to learn all the standard ways of launching)

PLEASE HELP ME.. (also with what things i will need to change other than the trans and CV axles cause i have never messed with an auto DSM further than just maintenance repairs

 

[-red97rum-]

Damn Glenn, you're on the rampage with posts lately.

Well I can't say too much about the 2G tranny's as I've always had 1G's. But basically the auto transmissions (awd or fwd) can take most of what you can throw at them in relatively stock form. Run synthetic fluid, lube guard additive, fresh end clutches, full line pressure shifts, good size cooler, restalled converter and maybe a shift kit. With that turbo you're currently running you're definitely going to have to use nitrous to get up on the converter.


I converted my 5 speed car to automatic earlier this year and it's been pretty good to me so far. I don't even run a TCU and have the gear selector wired up straight to the solenoids (kiggly manumatic) and use a hurst ratchet shifter for gears 1-3 and a push button switch for O/D. This means my car shifts with full line pressure every shift and I actually have to shift the gears. If you ran a tcu, (throw it in D and go) you'd have to run the "blue wire mod." Which basically stops the tcu from being able to control line pressure without pissing it off enough to make it go into limp mode. You most certainly can hook this up to a WOT switch of some sort so the trans will shift with full pressure.

Shit the trans in my car now had 114,XXX miles on it. I did the end clutches, threw in Valvoline ATF+4 sythetic, put in a decent cooler, run full line pressure with a restalled converter and it's been solid. I drive my car on the street quite a bit too. Now there's no real way to get off the line fast without stalling it up and building some boost. That makes you miss the 5 speed on the street sometimes. It also tends to feel even more sluggish from a stop with the higher stall converter. Nitrous makes a damn big difference though

Now I'm not sure with the swap on a fwd car.. but with my awd car all I needed was: The front/rear rollstop motor mounts, trans mount, flexplate, crankshaft bushing and the auto rear end. The 5 speed axles worked fine with the auto trans. I honestly don't know if the LSD insert would work.