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thinking about getting a new bottom end

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dffusion20

15+ Year Contributor
91
0
Aug 24, 2007
Irmo, South Carolina
I am thinking about getting a new bottom end. I have broken something in the block and and have been told that I should look for a new one from my mechanic. A friend told me that a 2.4 liter bottom end out of a spyder is a good idea. I just need some help in guiding my decsion. Also, just courious, will a srt4 bottom end fit in our cars? I saw a similar post, just for a nt. Thanks guys.
:cry:
 
A stroker motor has 20 percent more torque and will spool a turbo about up to 500 rpms earlier but they have a redline between 8000 to 8500 rpm.

If you are intending to rebuild your current block just purchase a stroker kit. It isn't a cheap thing. Besides the stroker kit you might want to go your block hone and ported as well as your head.
 
I am thinking about getting a new bottom end. I have broken something in the block and and have been told that I should look for a new one from my mechanic. A friend told me that a 2.4 liter bottom end out of a spyder is a good idea. I just need some help in guiding my decsion. Also, just courious, will a srt4 bottom end fit in our cars? I saw a similar post, just for a nt. Thanks guys.
:cry:

What "broke" in the bottom end? Spun bearing? It may not require you to replace the bottom end, but just rebuild your current one. Depends on what you want, 2.4s will spool turbo's faster, and have more tq, but will redline lower than a comparable 2.0. Other options include a 2.3 (2.4 crank on a 2.0 block), or a 2.1 (Not that common, very high revving engine though, 2.4 block with a 2.0 crank). And no, the SRT motor will not work in turbo cars, there is no engine compatability between 420 DSMs and 4g63 DSMs. I would say figure out what you want to spend, and what you want to use the car for, then search around and come back. Hope that helps.


PS-It's "grammar" not "grammer" :coy:
 
Thanks, for all the info, I believe it is a spun bearing but I am not sure. Grammar (LOL) The only reason I am thinking about replacing the bottom end compared to rebuilding it is that it might be cheaper. I have a great mechanic who I believe will cut me a break so rebuilding might be an option. Thanks again.
 
I have a 2.3L stroker, and my stock tach shows that 7000rpms is redline. Wouldnt that make the strokers redline around 6500?
 
I have a 2.3L stroker, and my stock tach shows that 7000rpms is redline. Wouldnt that make the strokers redline around 6500?

The stock tach doesn't have anything to do with a rebuilt stroker performance engine. Most often or not 8000-8500 is the limit for a stroker whereas the limit for non-stocker rebuilt engine can running anywhere from 8500-10000. I don't how or who built your stoker and if he's reliable.
 
I have a custom made 2.4L 4G64 bottom end from a '98 Galant (same as the 2G Spyders). It has a stock crank, Wiseco 9:1 compression pistons, and Eagle rods. It's been blueprinted and all the rotating assemblies have been balanced. I only really want to put 325-350 HP (maybe 400!) through it, tops, since my car is FWD. It's a hell of a motor to start with, but there's a few things you need to understand about it. For one, the decklid's higher, so you need different front covers and your stock oil return will be too short. Do some research- it's a good starting point. I spent a bit extra to overbuild the motor and understress it for reliability reasons.
 
There's not that much custom about running a 2.4 bottom end as long as you keep it mild, the 2.3 and 2.1's are definitely much more involved though.
 
There's not that much custom about running a 2.4 bottom end as long as you keep it mild, the 2.3 and 2.1's are definitely much more involved though.

It uses a different crank, rods, pistons and it'd be best to use a blueprinted and honed block. I'd call that custom. It's a lot of work.

You either have to build a stroker yourself and buy one already built from a performance shop.
 
I may be wrong but from what I have heard 4G64 does not get crank walk. Which is a plus. I have a 4G64. (stock 2G spyder) 4g64 runs in to a few problems. some parts look like they fit and they dont. Everything from pulley issues to fly wheel issues. Belts dont match up. its little things. Everything becomes 3 and 4 trips to the parts store. Even my Trans shop told me hes never seen a car where no ones parts fit.
 
It uses a different crank, rods, pistons and it'd be best to use a blueprinted and honed block. I'd call that custom. It's a lot of work.

You either have to build a stroker yourself and buy one already built from a performance shop.

Sorry, by "mild" I meant "stock". Not the best option by far, but people have done it before.
 
These numbers seem extremely exaggerated

I remember reading peak rpm efficiency of the 4g64 rod ratio

In stock form, your redline will be best kept below 7200 before the engine begins to work against itself

building the motor (lightening and balancing) would enable you to go higher, but there really is no point since you should tune for your power band

Just get a stock, low mileage 4g64 bottom end and slap a 16v head on it. There is more involved but that is the easiest (and most dependable) solution. You want to do it better, consider new pistons

--Mac
 
I may be wrong but from what I have heard 4G64 does not get crank walk. Which is a plus. I have a 4G64. (stock 2G spyder) 4g64 runs in to a few problems. some parts look like they fit and they dont. Everything from pulley issues to fly wheel issues. Belts dont match up. its little things. Everything becomes 3 and 4 trips to the parts store. Even my Trans shop told me hes never seen a car where no ones parts fit.

Any engine can get crankwalk. 7 bolts just seem to be more prone than most other engines. I think it is over exaggerated.:beatentodeath:
 
awsome thanks, now I know what I will be doing. My mechanic will be home soon from a trip so when he gets in, I will let everyone know what he has available. I should have some options with his connections. LOL Thanks again everyone.
 
What if I were to get a spyder or galant block. Would that be a 2.4 liter block that would bolt up to the head?

Yes, it'll bolt up, but it's not that simple. You have to get plugs made for the oil drain holes on the 4G64 that don't quite match up to the 4G63 head, or you'll have problems.

Here's a link that shows most of the parts you need, plus a diagram that shows you the holes that need to be plugged:

2G Turbo Head Swap on a 4G64

Here'a another link for a 4G64 bottom end with a 4G63 head:

7-bolt 4G64 buildup and swap with 1G head

He plugged the holes with crushed freeze plugs. The machine shop that did my bottom end custom made the plugs for me. They look like they were factory installed. I'd put a picture up, but I have to get 50 posts before I can add to my blog. :)
 
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