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think i found the culprit of the starting problem, please verify

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Tsi_User

15+ Year Contributor
1,265
1
Oct 19, 2004
East Lansing, Michigan
New ECU, MPI relay, spark plugs, wires, coil pack and still no spark :mad:

after replacing all these parts all I get when I turn the key over is a clicking from the ISC/battery area. It's not a fluttering sound, kinda metallic like and it makes this "clicking sound" 4 to 5 times a second when I try and turn the key.

I realized today when looking at my new NGK wires that EVERY wire seems to be 3+ inches longer then they need to be to get from the spark plugs to the coil pack. Could these be the wrong wires for the car?

Please if anyone has an idea post a reply, I'm heading to FLA this saturday and would really like to fix the DSM before I leave.
 
Sounds to me like you're barking up the wrong tree... Have you checked the starter? That's what it sounds like, the solenoid trying to engage and not being able to.
 
Clean and tighten the battery terminals as well. I think it's a battery/alternator/starter issue rather than ignition.
 
the battery was charged and "load tested"or something on the lines of that and they said it was fine and the terminals are nice and clean

we tried working on it some more, one of my friends said the ticking sound isn't from the starter, it's the battery trying to start the car but it's so damn cold it isn't starting it

so we jumped the car from his, it turned over but still no damn spark (new MPI relay, ECU, coil pack, ISC). He thought it might be that one of pins on the ECU was bent so I looked at them, all of them are fine and go into the harness just fine

One thing I'm thinking is that the ECU harness is messed, the previous owner broke the clips on 2 of the 3 harness and now isn't a pain to get off. I looked at the wires and none of them are loose or pulled out except the RPM siglan, but that's because I tapped it for an aftermarket tach and i broke where I soldered it.

I just put ANOTHER ECU in it and with the key on the auxillary position my aftermarket tach light goes bright and then dims and kinda fluctuates the brightness

You guys thing that my batterie's bad and they just mis-diagnosed it? Thanks for all the quick response guys, I really appreciate it
 
Get yourselft a multimeter and sevice mamual and take your own measurements. I still think it's bad connection with the battery or the battery.
 
Tsi_User said:
ha good point, would Autozone let me do that?

oh and also a fellow DSMer I know has a voltmeter and is going to help me diagnose the electrical problem if there is one. The only problem is that I have class in 1 hour and then I'm in Florida for a week so I won't have time to work on if for more than a week :mad:
 
If the engine isnt turning over don't bother with the ECU and spark stuff. Check your starter, battery connections and ignition. I'm pretty sure your car should still turn over atleast even without having an ECU because mine would when the ECU crapped out on me.
 
so I got a new battery today and the engine turns over now (the battery wasn't even turning the lights on) so finally some progress! I'm still not getting spark though, so what would you guys recommend? Getting a new starter and trying that?
 
No if the car turns over than the starter is good. If you know there's no spark for sure then work your way up to the ECU: plugs, wires, CAS, coil pack, transister and ECU. If you have a 1G turbo friend near by, start swaping parts.
 
ECU (already tried)
plugs (already tried)
wires (already tried)
CAS
Coilpack (already tried)
Transistor
ECU (already tried)
MPI relay (already tried)

So you guys think I should go out and get a CAS and a transistor? Exactly where is the transistor? Thanks for all the help by the way :thumb:
 
alright well then I guess I'll buy a transistor and a CAS

one more quick Q though, will a CAS and a transistor work on my Tsi if they cam of a 4G63 NT? My friend has a 92 Eclipse and he's thinking about parting it out.
 
whew, that's a relief, I can probably get the parts then for about $50 then. Anyone else know if they'll work?
 
johnk said:
The transistor should since all 4g63 use the same impendence injectors. Not sure on the CAS but I think if it's another 4g63 1G it should be ok. 2G has a different setup
^^WTF?? Transistor is for ignition, not fuel injection. All 1g 4g63 should have same transistor and coil pack. 4g63T does not have same inpedence injectors as 4g63 non turbo, that's why they have a resistor pack.
 
johnk said:
It's up on the firewall in the middle top a retangular grey box.
deffinatley not!!!, the transistor is behind the t-belt cover on the drivers side, basically its bolted to the drivers side intake, but its hard to see without removing the t-belt cover, it's possible to replace it without removing the cover though. :dsm:
 
92redman said:
^^WTF?? Transistor is for ignition, not fuel injection. All 1g 4g63 should have same transistor and coil pack. 4g63T does not have same inpedence injectors as 4g63 non turbo, that's why they have a resistor pack.

so that means theh transistor SHOULD work on my car because my car has different injectors and resistor pack?

And what about the CAS?
 
all 1g cas and ignition transistors are the same except the 90' model year, for a 90 you will have to use another 90 :dsm:
 
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