the start of my rebuild let me know what you guys think

[90redtalontsi]

just started the rebuild on my 90 talon just a few shots from the last two days of the rebuild....when i pulled the pistons out of the block the guy was running way to lean well at least i tthink becasue all the pistons had cracks in them and they were all melted haha but im fixing all that i have a new head to be put on new pistons rings rods bearings exhaust manifold the turbo is staying on becasue its in good shape

 

[LKWTSI]

Any chance you have or can take some pictures and post them of the head. Specifically the camshaft seal area and around the cam gears area. I have a leak in that area and would like to look at this area without all the junk in the way so I can see if I can pull the top half off and replace the seals while in the car.

Thanks,

 

[90redtalontsi]

yea ill take some pics for you i had a big oil leak in those seals and the balance shaft seal hence all the oil all over the engine bay well the guy that had the car before me had the leaks i just got the car and started the rebuild ill post the pics in a few mins for you man

 

[90redtalontsi]

you should be able to redo the seals by just taking the valve cover off take the cam gears off and right there they are the pic is of the new head seals im gonna replace them but that give u a pic of where they are sorry its not on the motor yet but they are easy to get to with the valve cover off

 

[LKWTSI]

Thanks..

Wasn't sure how much hassle I'd have or if I'd have enough room to move the camshafts out of the way without removing too much of the engine.

 

[talonDSMerr]

Man, those vac lines and electrical wires are all over the place. What a mess, . Good luck with the build, keep us posted.

 

[90redtalontsi]

haha yea there was a big oil leak everywhere obviously haha and everything got oily wires and all good thing is there was no rust so that was good i guess haha but yea ill have more pics of the buil up this weekend i need to get the new pistons on the new rods this week and get new bearings the new head is ready to go on and all the new gaskets so it should be up and running this weekend hopefully if all goes well....but then again it is a dsm and not known to all go well hahaha but i do love my dsms

 

[e85_4g63]

DSM's are great that way, just when you think you've got it figured out, BAM.,... they throw a whole new set of issue's at you. But on a serious note, what do you expect from a 20 year old car that's been beat to h*!! and back by 5 or more people. I love my DSM too!

 

[90redtalontsi]

haha def man i agree 100% i couldnt have said it better myself its like an addiction you know your losing money and it gives you so many headaches but at the end of the day you love it

 

[e85_4g63]

So what your saying is it's like having a second (more needful then the 1st) girlfriend! yep...

 

[90redtalontsi]

haha yup thats exactly what it is i actually spent valentines day workin on my car and not with the girlfriend she was a little pissed to say the least

 

[90redtalontsi]

where in lancaster are u from man

 

[90redtalontsi]

update on the build i ripped out the ac stuff!! weight reductions gotta love it all together that crap weighed alot surpiseingly. the previous owner dint have belts hooked up to the pump and the pump was fried so i just decided to take it all out vs buying a new pump

 

[toofast82]

It appears you're going to do all of this with the block still in the car. pretty cool!

 

[JusMX141]

It appears you're going to do all of this with the block still in the car. pretty cool!

I did the same to my buddy's 1G non-turbo daily driver last fall that he bought for $200 with two broken exhaust valve guides caused by a failed timing belt auto tensioner.

Swapped the head with a 2G turbo head that I rebuilt (smaller intake ports for more low-end torque)....new valve seals, re-lapped all of the valves. The car had 172k on it, so new rings and bearings were a must.

The car has about 3k on it since the rebuild, and it runs better than ever. The used 2G head set him back $85, and the full re-ring kit was on sale for $95 with free shipping on eBay. Not bad for a $200 car!

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[90redtalontsi]

yup im doing everything with the block still in the car mostly becasue i dont have an engine hoist to pull everything out but its not bad workin on it with the block in the car the hardest part was unbloting the intake manifold but when you have a jack and jackstands its really not that bad.....i got the car off craigslist near my hosue for 900 bucks and it had a brand new full magna flow exhaust big 16g turbo and tubular exhaust manifold and the guy gave me new rods pistons and a gasket set for the car to so all i had to do was go buy a new head that i got from a friend of mine and its brand new only charged me 150 bucks for it casue he needed it out of his garage so all in all im doing the work myself and a few random small parts im spending about 1400 on the car with a complete rebuild other then the block and trans not to bad

 

[toofast82]

I guess i never really thought of doing it like that. It makes sense if you are just throwing some bearings and rings in it and the motor was just down on compression.

 

[90redtalontsi]

well im puttin new rods pistons and rings in casue the last person melted the pistons and rings so while its open im doing rings rods pistons and bearings only thing thats staying is the block and its in good shape under all the oil

 

[toofast82]

well im puttin new rods pistons and rings in casue the last person melted the pistons and rings so while its open im doing rings rods pistons and bearings only thing thats staying is the block and its in good shape under all the oil

Did you mic out the cylinders or anything to make sure it wouldnt need boring? Are you using file-fit rings or pre-gapped?

 

[90redtalontsi]

i honed out the cylinder after the head was off and and the rods and pistons were out and the rings are gapped

 

[JusMX141]

When we did my buddy's non-turbo we tore it down first to make sure all the bearings and bores were standard, ordered the re-ring kit, then I cleaned up the cylinder bores and crank journals with some 3M Scotchbrite while everything was being shipped. The bores still had visible crosshatch, so I knew honing wasn't necessary- a quick scrub with a Scotchbrite pad was all that was needed to de-glaze the bores.

Checking the straightness of the bores is rather easy....use a piston to center an old compression ring at three points within the bore at the top, middle, and bottom. Measure the ring end gap at all three points and compare your measurements. As long as they're within .002" or so, the cylinder is rather straight.

**TIP** If the head's coming off anyway, pull it with the intake manifold still attached and install the head with the intake manifold already bolted to the head. It's a little heavy and bulky to handle, but I believe it makes the job a WHOLE lot easier.

 

[90redtalontsi]

When we did my buddy's non-turbo we tore it down first to make sure all the bearings and bores were standard, ordered the re-ring kit, then I cleaned up the cylinder bores and crank journals with some 3M Scotchbrite while everything was being shipped. The bores still had visible crosshatch, so I knew honing wasn't necessary- a quick scrub with a Scotchbrite pad was all that was needed to de-glaze the bores.

Checking the straightness of the bores is rather easy....use a piston to center an old compression ring at three points within the bore at the top, middle, and bottom. Measure the ring end gap at all three points and compare your measurements. As long as they're within .002" or so, the cylinder is rather straight.

**TIP** If the head's coming off anyway, pull it with the intake manifold still attached and install the head with the intake manifold already bolted to the head. It's a little heavy and bulky to handle, but I believe it makes the job a WHOLE lot easier.

thanks for the tip with bolting on the intake first that makes things alot easier when i put it back on instead of reaching for all those small bolts

 

[toofast82]

When we did my buddy's non-turbo we tore it down first to make sure all the bearings and bores were standard, ordered the re-ring kit, then I cleaned up the cylinder bores and crank journals with some 3M Scotchbrite while everything was being shipped. The bores still had visible crosshatch, so I knew honing wasn't necessary- a quick scrub with a Scotchbrite pad was all that was needed to de-glaze the bores.

Checking the straightness of the bores is rather easy....use a piston to center an old compression ring at three points within the bore at the top, middle, and bottom. Measure the ring end gap at all three points and compare your measurements. As long as they're within .002" or so, the cylinder is rather straight.

**TIP** If the head's coming off anyway, pull it with the intake manifold still attached and install the head with the intake manifold already bolted to the head. It's a little heavy and bulky to handle, but I believe it makes the job a WHOLE lot easier.

Definitely check the bores, It could save you in the long run and doesnt take long.
I think i've read 3-4 budget rebuild articles today where there was a compression issue that still existed after the re-ring
I thought the intake on head thing pretty much spelled itself out during disassembly. If you dont know, now you know!

 

[JusMX141]

I think i've read 3-4 budget rebuild articles today where there was a compression issue that still existed after the re-ring

The car we did definitely had better compression on all four after the rebuild and proper break-in.

If it were my car I would've changed the oil pump as well when we rebuilt it, but I couldn't convince my buddy to drop the extra $200 into a car that he paid only $200 for. Personally I wouldn't trust an oil pump with over 170k on it, and to this day the car still idles with very little oil pressure despite running 15W40 with almost perfect bearing tolerances, but while cruising the oil pressure is perfectly normal.

 

[90redtalontsi]

when i mic'ed out my cylinders it wasnt bad enough that i needed to get it bored out so i just used the honeing tool that u can attatch to the end of a power drill and i finished it off that way it was real easy and the tool wasnt that expensive casue ive used it on other build for friends cars...there shouldnt be bad compression after i put the new stuff in it cant be any worse then what it was before the build haha one of the cylinders was only about 80 the compression ring wasnt there and the piston was melted