The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

the REVERSE of shaft play

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Herbal

Probationary Member
25
0
Aug 9, 2009
cleveland, Ohio
okay guys, first post on here, familiar with automotive forum procedure though so i HAVE searched this but it's kinda weird.

i have a 14b that was stripped off a scrapper years ago, it hasn't been attached to a car in 5+ years and who knows how long it sat before that, dunno why the car was scrapped.

i may need to use this turbo, or find another 14b, first step, check for shaft play no?

zero shaft play is evident, nada in out up down tight. my problem? it spins a lil hard.

i've had a couple dsm friends take a look at it locally and the general consensus is "it's a bit tight" for their liking.

now,, since it's sat for so long i put some oil through the return line. at first the turbo was a making a faint noise on the hotside(rubbing the housing?) and also seemed to have a spot in it's rotation that it stuck a bit, now a couple days later the noise is gone completely and the tight spot is arguably gone. by arguably gone i mean if i use my finger to spin the compressor by pushing a blade at a time, i feel nothing. if i use a socket on the nut on top of the compressor wheel, i can feel it takes just a lil less torque, but it MAY be my fingers changing shape and thus generating more/less torque. in any case it's very very slight.

soo, before i swap this turbo onto my 4g, what should i do to do it right and make sure this turbo is good?? i wanna make it to the shootout!!
 
The overfilled oil pan could definitely effect the turbo's ability to drain properly.

1-1/2 quarts is probably enough to allow the oil in the pan to literally start backing up in the oil drain tube. The oil draining from the turbo has nowhere to go, so you're flooding the center housing.

As long as there's no shaft play, the problem should go away once you return the oil to the specified level and run the car a little while to clear the oil residue from the exhaust components.
 
welp got into it today and now this turbo is junk too:barf:. shaft play is not apparent at first because the oil in the bearings sort of cushions it but if you play with it it will go as far as touching the compressor housing. it has less then 400 miles on the rebuild:cry:

im done for the season. time to park it and save money. next time im just buying a turbo.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top