The Reno thread in which no arguing will take place....

[Stock Josh]

Ya, its top secret G14 classified. But if I take pictures at odd angles, you cant tell what it is, just how much its progressing.

 

[Talon11]

well my piece of crap is finally up and running again. anyone meeting up or doing anything later tonight?

 

[sp00ln]

well my piece of crap is finally up and running again. anyone meeting up or doing anything later tonight?

We're going to the track tomorrow... care to see what your "POS" can run? It should be runnin pretty good right now...

 

[Talon11]

I don't even get off work till midnight, so I don't think i'd be able to make it

 

[Libila]

So how did the races go?

 

[sp00ln]

So how did the races go?

It sucked. No one showed up and they cancled the event. There were only 3 DSMs and two civics a nd they just gave us a quick 15 minutes to run, so everyone was rushed. Justin's GST tore a coupling so he got no decent run in and parker was rushed to change his tires because they ALMOST didn't let him run due to bald front tires. I ran still ran a bit with an impressive first run of 14.8 with a 2.5 60'. Parker ran a run of 15.2@98 with an equal 60'. Our next runs were a little bit better. I got a 13.7@100 and parker got a 13.9@99 both with 2.0 60'. We just need more time, better practice, and upgraded clutches

 

[Stock Josh]

It sucked. No one showed up and they cancled the event. There were only 3 DSMs and two civics a nd they just gave us a quick 15 minutes to run, so everyone was rushed. Justin's GST tore a coupling so he got no decent run in and parker was rushed to change his tires because they ALMOST didn't let him run due to bald front tires. I ran still ran a bit with an impressive first run of 14.8 with a 2.5 60'. Parker ran a run of 15.2@98 with an equal 60'. Our next runs were a little bit better. I got a 13.7@100 and parker got a 13.9@99 both with 2.0 60'. We just need more time, better practice, and upgraded clutches

Doesnt parker have a front mount, 16g, afc, and 550's? Sounds like he needs tuning, even though he might need a clutch. He should be trapping a LOT higher. Like 105 or 106 on 18 psi. I bet he still has a stock air meter doesnt he. That will cause a lot of problems. BTW, if parker still has a stock clutch, he should be DUMPING it, no slipping at all, or else it wont grab. Pulsde the throttle around 5500 rpm and just drop it.
Ryan, dont you have my old turbo? You should be getting a lot higher than 100 mph, even on pump gas. Do you still have stock 440's?

 

[sp00ln]

Doesnt parker have a front mount, 16g, afc, and 550's? Sounds like he needs tuning, even though he might need a clutch. He should be trapping a LOT higher. Like 105 or 106 on 18 psi. I bet he still has a stock air meter doesnt he. That will cause a lot of problems. BTW, if parker still has a stock clutch, he should be DUMPING it, no slipping at all, or else it wont grab. Pulsde the throttle around 5500 rpm and just drop it.
Ryan, dont you have my old turbo? You should be getting a lot higher than 100 mph, even on pump gas. Do you still have stock 440's?

No, I have 660cc and AFC. I need a AFPR cuz it's dumping way too much fuel and I'm having to lean it out ALOT. I'm thinking I maybe should have bought 550ccs. We were both more than full weight and pumpgas.

 

[Stock Josh]

No, I have 660cc and AFC. I need a AFPR cuz it's dumping way too much fuel and I'm having to lean it out ALOT. I'm thinking I maybe should have bought 550ccs. We were both more than full weight and pumpgas.

Here is a problem I am sure you are running into with the 660's. The 660's will only work with REALLY high boost and pump gas. You can buy a AFPR, but Im not sure it'll help for pump gas. The problem is, you have to pull so much signal out with the AFC, that it ends up giving a lot of extra timing. (I used to get 30 degrees advance on 20 psi, not good). On pump gas, this will cause it to detonate. You'll have to run HIGH octane ( I used to run 118) to survive on 660's. I was running 550's on that turbo, they were ok till 22psi or so, but my timing was only 14 or 15 degrees because I was running so much duty cycle. Then I swapped the 660's in and could run 25psi with about 20 degrees timing. I actually saw 24 or so but manually dialed the timing back with the cam sensor. You cant do that because the 2g's dont have cam sensors (unless you did the mod). I also know you pulled the honeycombs from your meter, and that dials in less air signal/more timing as well. RACE GAS. You have to use it, and I mean super high octane.

 

[Stock Josh]

Oh, and if Parkers car still has a stock mas (gutted or not) with the 16g, it'll never run right. The only way you'll get a good clean air signal from the MAS on anything over 16psi is to hack off the bottom chamber and enlarge it so bad that the car will barely idle and want to die when the fans come on. He needs to wire up a 2g mas and that car will pick up a ton of power on higher boost levels.

 

[sp00ln]

Here is a problem I am sure you are running into with the 660's. The 660's will only work with REALLY high boost and pump gas. You can buy a AFPR, but Im not sure it'll help for pump gas. The problem is, you have to pull so much signal out with the AFC, that it ends up giving a lot of extra timing. (I used to get 30 degrees advance on 20 psi, not good). On pump gas, this will cause it to detonate. You'll have to run HIGH octane ( I used to run 118) to survive on 660's. I was running 550's on that turbo, they were ok till 22psi or so, but my timing was only 14 or 15 degrees because I was running so much duty cycle. Then I swapped the 660's in and could run 25psi with about 20 degrees timing. I actually saw 24 or so but manually dialed the timing back with the cam sensor. You cant do that because the 2g's dont have cam sensors (unless you did the mod). I also know you pulled the honeycombs from your meter, and that dials in less air signal/more timing as well. RACE GAS. You have to use it, and I mean super high octane.

I put the honey combs back in to get more hz signal to the ECU. It's running OK. My AFC settings around anywhere from -35% to -42%. On my logg runs I see 33 at crusing speeds, 22-25 at wot near boost kick in, 12 or so when boost hits and it makes its way up 18-19 by 7,000.

*edit*

this was all with 18psi.

 

[Stock Josh]

I put the honey combs back in to get more hz signal to the ECU. It's running OK. My AFC settings around anywhere from -35% to -42%. On my logg runs I see 33 at crusing speeds, 22-25 at wot near boost kick in, 12 or so when boost hits and it makes its way up 18-19 by 7,000.

*edit*

this was all with 18psi.

You know, that all sounds pretty good for a timing curve to me. Sounds like you got that in order. Not thats its relevant, but if you could find a way to get more timing through the middle of the rpm range the car will really pick up, but thats off the subject. Thats pretty decent to keep a curve like that on pump gas as well. Will the car get over 20 degrees if you turn down the boost? The only thing that would make it slow with a decent timing curve is if its PIG rich. Turbo cars can be REALLY rich and not blow black smoke, so if you ARE seeing black smoke when you jump on it, thats an indicator of being REALLY rich. What happens if you try to ADD fuel on the AFC? Does the timing stay the same? Go down? Go up?
Actually, you should touch NOTHING and run the car empty of gas, then pour in STRAIGHT 110 or 114 for 18psi and then re-log the car. If the timing increases, then you know you were detonating, if it does nothing, then you know you tuning was pretty good to start with.
For reference, I know 2g ECU's are different with their timing delivery than a 1g, but my curve would would just stay all the way through the pull. When cruising, it was 45 degrees, and when boost hit it was at 20 degrees and would stay all the way to redline. It wouldnt advance through the pull like a 2g. This gave more mid range power.
If you are getting good timing and the car is just rich, then a regulator is the smartest choice. I used to run mine at about 35 psi with the hose on.

 

[sp00ln]

I'll turn down the boost and see where my timing goes. If I lower my AFC settings my car sputters due to way too much fuel.

 

[sp00ln]

Turned it down, timing goes up. It's about +4/5 all the way through. I see about 24-25 degrees up top.

 

[Stock Josh]

Will a 1st gen fuel rail work on your car? If so, I have my old fuel pressure regulator setup I could sell to you. I had a fitting welded on the end so I could use EARLS AN fittings, and then I made braided lines to go to and from a Paxton FPR that mounted on the firewall. I dont know if you remember it or not.
What boost was that? For your race gas tune, you'll want to turn the boost up, and take the honeycombs out of your MAS to try and achieve that air signal but with more boost. Follow? You should take note of the HZ count, and try to tune to have the computer see that hz count for that "better" timing map but on more boost. Your car will pick up a ton.

 

[sp00ln]

Will a 1st gen fuel rail work on your car? If so, I have my old fuel pressure regulator setup I could sell to you. I had a fitting welded on the end so I could use EARLS AN fittings, and then I made braided lines to go to and from a Paxton FPR that mounted on the firewall. I dont know if you remember it or not.
What boost was that? For your race gas tune, you'll want to turn the boost up, and take the honeycombs out of your MAS to try and achieve that air signal but with more boost. Follow? You should take note of the HZ count, and try to tune to have the computer see that hz count for that "better" timing map but on more boost. Your car will pick up a ton.

Yeah, I think a 1g fuel rail will fit on my car. How much will you sell the setup for? With this FPR setup, you can turn the fuel pressure DOWN right?

 

[Stock Josh]

Yeah, I think a 1g fuel rail will fit on my car. How much will you sell the setup for? With this FPR setup, you can turn the fuel pressure DOWN right?

Ya, I bought it specifically to turn the pressure down. Ever seen or heard of a SX regulator? Its the exact same thing, only colored blue specially for Paxton. I had blue intercooler pipes, blue cam gears, and blue plug wires, so I wanted the blue regulator. I know, being color co-ordinated is ###, but hey. Its NOTHING like the lame B&M regulator, this is the hardcore shit. It will go from about 25psi up to 80 or so. I ran it as low as 32 at one point without any problems. It has a 6AN fittings and connects right to all the stock stuff, a bolt in of sorts.
The regulator is $140, the fittings and lines were about $45, a used fuel rail (we'll say 10 bux), and the cost to weld the fitting on $60 (people that weld aluminum rip you off, I still fail to see why it always costs so much). Thats $255. I'll sell it for $150. Thats a decent deal I'd say.

 

[sp00ln]

Ya, I bought it specifically to turn the pressure down. Ever seen or heard of a SX regulator? Its the exact same thing, only colored blue specially for Paxton. I had blue intercooler pipes, blue cam gears, and blue plug wires, so I wanted the blue regulator. I know, being color co-ordinated is ###, but hey. Its NOTHING like the lame B&M regulator, this is the hardcore shit. It will go from about 25psi up to 80 or so. I ran it as low as 32 at one point without any problems. It has a 6AN fittings and connects right to all the stock stuff, a bolt in of sorts.
The regulator is $140, the fittings and lines were about $45, a used fuel rail (we'll say 10 bux), and the cost to weld the fitting on $60 (people that weld aluminum rip you off, I still fail to see why it always costs so much). Thats $255. I'll sell it for $150. Thats a decent deal I'd say.

Hmmm.... give me a call Josh: 742.3018 I may need to negotiate the price because Im running low with this trip to japan coming up. I'm sure we could work something out. I'm ready to buy.

 

[Stock Josh]

Did everyone else die? When I signed back up, there were like 800 people on here, now only Ryan and I are posting. What gives?

 

[sp00ln]

Nick, did you fix that o2 yet?

 

[Driftt]

I am here still just got my internet up im at UNR now

 

[peregrine]

how funny. I saw mike last night at the farmers market and he reminded me that i posted here a week ago. im still alive guys. just got a lot of stuff going on. i just moved into an apartment last weekend with my girlfriend and i work alot. i DO plan on getting another car in the next year though. its looking more and more like i wanna get an LS-1 f body or 350Z and procharge it. i thought about getting another turbo mustang but i dont want to deal with those tuning issues again. i also thought about getting another dsm but i dont want the driveline issues. besides, no one around here has a really fast f body or 350z and the ram airs look mean with 18s and the 350zs look bad ass with 19s ryan, you are having the same kind of tuning issues i was having with my 660s although i ran 12.5@113 with a crappy tune i heard you got an awd. congrats. you should have alot of fun with it. ill keep an eye on this thread and try to give helpful advice where i can and maybe a smart ass comment or two. later.

 

[Stock Josh]

Ryan! Youre $hit is AWD? I thought those times were with a FWD?

 

[sp00ln]

Ryan! Youre $hit is AWD? I thought those times were with a FWD?

Nope. You talk to Randy... He's worked on it. :laugh:

John... there's a turbo charged Lexus IS300 at Sport Haus (sp?). I hear it does 180pmh in 5th gear... out of 6 gears... I heard its going for around $50k if you've got the money

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[Stock Josh]

Good lookin car. I like it.