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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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is it worth it?
2,000$

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T with 125,000 miles on the body. It has a 1st gen
4g63 engine that was imported from japan and it will not experience crankwalk,
like the original engine. The engine has been recently rebuilt and has 150
miles on the following: Pistons, piston rings, oil pump, water pump, head,
head gaskets, rod bearings, timing belt, and starter. The starter has been
acting up a little bit lately but it the car will always start.Also, i spun a bearing but was told it would be only 40$ to fix.
Both would be an easy and inexpensive fix, just no time to do it because i am a college student.Car does not
leak any fluids. All aftermarket parts were installed at a well known tuner shop in Columbus and
all reciepts and records are kept. Over $12,000 in mods invested.

ENGINE
-Big 16g turbo upgrade
-Front mount intercooler with custom cold side piping
-K&N air intake
-aftermarket stainless hi-flow headers
-full greddy sp2 exhaust
-Greddy type S blow off valve
-AC eliminated
-silent shaft eliminated
-racings polyurethane motor mounts

ENGINE MANAGEMENT
-DSM link
-HKS turbo timer
-Glowshift boost, engine temp, and oil pressure pillar gauges

TRANSMISSION
-ACT stage 3 racing clutch
-ACT lightened flywheel
-B&M short throw shifter

OTHER
-Enkei 16 inch rims
-wired for subs
-MTX door speakers
-MTX 6x9 speakers
-Pioneer head unit
-leather seats
-power windows
-aftermarket Pithon security system
-manual radiator fan switches high and low
-new headlight assemblies with halo lights
 
is it worth it?
2,000$

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T with 125,000 miles on the body. It has a 1st gen
4g63 engine that was imported from japan and it will not experience crankwalk,
like the original engine. The engine has been recently rebuilt and has 150
miles on the following: Pistons, piston rings, oil pump, water pump, head,
head gaskets, rod bearings, timing belt, and starter. The starter has been
acting up a little bit lately but it the car will always start.Also, i spun a bearing but was told it would be only 40$ to fix.
Both would be an easy and inexpensive fix, just no time to do it because i am a college student.Car does not
leak any fluids. All aftermarket parts were installed at a well known tuner shop in Columbus and
all reciepts and records are kept. Over $12,000 in mods invested.

ENGINE
-Big 16g turbo upgrade
-Front mount intercooler with custom cold side piping
-K&N air intake
-aftermarket stainless hi-flow headers
-full greddy sp2 exhaust
-Greddy type S blow off valve
-AC eliminated
-silent shaft eliminated
-racings polyurethane motor mounts

ENGINE MANAGEMENT
-DSM link
-HKS turbo timer
-Glowshift boost, engine temp, and oil pressure pillar gauges

TRANSMISSION
-ACT stage 3 racing clutch
-ACT lightened flywheel
-B&M short throw shifter

OTHER
-Enkei 16 inch rims
-wired for subs
-MTX door speakers
-MTX 6x9 speakers
-Pioneer head unit
-leather seats
-power windows
-aftermarket Pithon security system
-manual radiator fan switches high and low
-new headlight assemblies with halo lights

6bolts walk, just not as frequent.
 
That's also nowhere NEAR 12k in parts. ;) Maybe he meant 2k.

Spun bearing, eh...you a decent mechanic?
 
im really kind of lost on ## quote buddy. .
but he said 18s as low as he can go,
but a rod bearings a pretty simple thing to replace, well besides gettin to it. . .
and the bearing set is noly like 30 40 bicks
 
If it spun a rod bearing then you need to turn or polish the crank and recondition the rods. If you think you are just going to put a new rod bearing set in and be good to drive it you better think again. Most likely there are burs on the crank and rod and there is also most likely more damage then you can see. There is a reason it spun a rod bearing. They don't just go out like a sensor or an alternator or something. They either A: go out because of lack of lubrication, or B: they go out right after a rebuild because the builder assembled something wrong. Also the rod bolts (if OEM) are torque to yield which means they can only be used once and must be replaced. Just keep all this in mind when you are making an offer on the car because it is more work than you may think.
 
Thanks man that helped alot

If it spun a rod bearing then you need to turn or polish the crank and recondition the rods. If you think you are just going to put a new rod bearing set in and be good to drive it you better think again. Most likely there are burs on the crank and rod and there is also most likely more damage then you can see. There is a reason it spun a rod bearing. They don't just go out like a sensor or an alternator or something. They either A: go out because of lack of lubrication, or B: they go out right after a rebuild because the builder assembled something wrong. Also the rod bolts (if OEM) are torque to yield which means they can only be used once and must be replaced. Just keep all this in mind when you are making an offer on the car because it is more work than you may think.

so ### if i found a cheap crankshaft on c.l, should i just buy it? or would it be cheaper all together in the long run to buy new, the guy also has rods, and pistons ext.
 
Thanks man that helped alot



so ### if i found a cheap crankshaft on c.l, should i just buy it? or would it be cheaper all together in the long run to buy new, the guy also has rods, and pistons ext.

Well if you go and buy a used crank its most likely not going to be any different than the one you have, unless you find one that is a virgin crank and never spun a bearing. If this is the case than you may be able to get away with just doing a crank with new bearings, but in the long run you will be better off just rebuilding the short block.

Also if the issue to begin with was that the car was ran low on oil and caused it to spin a bearing, then most likely it could have also caused an issue with the cam journals since they get oil last.

If you do decide to get the car, then here is my suggestion for you so that you have a car that you know has a good engine and is reliable. Pull the engine and completely go through it. have the block machined and bored with new pistons and rings. Also a crankshaft kit is reasonably cheap and it comes with the crank and bearings that are matched to it.I would also reccomend reconditioning the rods by having new rod bolts installed and have the big end machined so that it is perfect. You can save a lot of money by doing all of the work yourself including building the engine, and you will be able to say that YOU did it. Hope this helps, feel free to ask if you have anymore questions.:thumb:
 
I just picked up a new 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX over the weekend. I was posting to get some opinions on what you think... I will of course have pictures when I get a chance to snap a few. I picked this car up for dirt cheap, because the rack & pinion went out and the kid couldn't afford to get it fixed so he opted to sell it to me. It has 150k miles on the body but the original owner bought a brand new stock OE 0 Mile motor from Mitsubishi at 80k miles. It is a 5 speed manual that runs great.

It currently has:
3 inch turbo-back exhaust
K&N Air Filter
Hard Intercooler piping (Upper & Lower)
He told me it was a 16G???? (I put question marks because I don't think there is any way it is a 16G)
Tial wastegate off Exhaust Manifold w/ Atmospheric Dump
Greddy Type S BOV vented....
Untuned 550's = 12 MPG

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What is it worth???? I know how much I paid for it, but take a guess...
 

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Oh yeah, forgot to post a mod list.

Engine and all internals have just under 3000 miles, transmission has around 5000 and suspension has around 20k body has 16X,XXX

6-bolt swap
1g head and block
Scat rods and MAHLE pistons .020 over
stock uncut crank ACL trimetal bearings (crank and rod)
BSE kit with Topline oil pump (oil pressure is 20psi idle 80psi at 7k)
ITM water pump
fluidyne radiator
1990 OFH with large B&M air oil cooler
stock head with 3 angle valve job
ARP head studs and main studs.
3g lifters
BC valve springs and TI retainers
BC 280 cams
Magnus old style street intake manifold.
ebay FMIC agp replica all piping re-fitted and re-welded to accommodate SMIM.
HKS ssqv
1g throttle body with bottom half blocked off (Idles like a champ!)
Turbonetics cast exhaust manifold
Tial 38mm wastegate with dump
T3 SC6152 jounal bearing .63 a/r exh and .70 a/r compressor housing
apexi n1 downpipe and thermal cat-back.
oil feed from filter housing with inline filter and .075 oil restrictor
-10AN oil drain
Dogboxracing race build transmission (Can be compared to the new stage 3)
KAAZ 1.5 LSD
ACT 2600 with ClutchNet 6-puck
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
stock axles.
PTE injectors 880cc
-6AN from filter to rail
Aeromotive FPR
wally 255 fuel pump
EPROM ECU
DSMlink v2.5
GMAFT 3" GM MAF blow through
AEM wideband
Autometer -30 +30 boost gauge
Autometer 1600 egt gauge
glowshift 7 color oil temp gauge
glowshift 7 color water temp gauge
HKS type 0 turbo timer
Forge UNOS boost controller
B&M short shifter
MACH V 1lb OEM 2g shift knob.
Solid shifter base bushings and roller blade shifter bushings.
Urethane motor mount kit

suspension:
slotted rotors
adr eite 17x7 bronze wheels on an asortment of tires.
tokico blues on eibach pro-kit springs.
ignalls rear camber kit (installed)
spc front camber kit (uninstalled)

---
Insignia radio with CD, SD card, USB and aux input.
Infinity 12" sub still in the box.
Infinity reference 6.5 components up front and reference 2way 6x9 in rear.
All gray leather interior with black dash.
10,000k HID's not installed

My Profile Photos pictures, photos, and videos, from on webshots

Heres mine...its in the classifieds on this site right now haha
In MY opinion this is a reasonable offer. KBB values this at like $3500 but thats without the money put into it ($500+)
My price IS negotiable also.
So what do you guys think?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/95-99-dsms-for-sale-4/1999-eclipse-gs-1723/

I would say about 4000 - 4500 if you put the stock muffler back on. It would make a great girls first car, or a good daily driver.
 
Last edited:
I would put the stock muffler and everything on except I took it to an exhaust shop and didnt ask for it when they took it off :ohdamn:

$3500 obo seems fair though right? I just wanna sell it soon so I can get this Z28 I have my eye on.
 
ok my turn, i have been wanting a 2g gst cause the awd is just not for me, i love the 1g but i want to move on, i just want to know what i could start the sale price as or :confused: pretty much just testing waters before i make a final sale.

the mods.

big 16g/550cc inj/2g mass/safc2/egt-30psi-and wideband air fuel gauges/straight 3'' pipe dumped at rear diff, xtd stage 2 pp and 6puck disc/ programmed eprom.

and more mod's i cant think of right now but...
 
ok my turn, i have been wanting a 2g gst cause the awd is just not for me, i love the 1g but i want to move on, i just want to know what i could start the sale price as or :confused: pretty much just testing waters before i make a final sale.

the mods.

big 16g/550cc inj/2g mass/safc2/egt-30psi-and wideband air fuel gauges/straight 3'' pipe dumped at rear diff, xtd stage 2 pp and 6puck disc/ programmed eprom.

and more mod's i cant think of right now but...

your car would easily catch $6000 here in Canada...very nice car btw. :thumb:
 
So i got this deal on a 91 awd,whole car motor and tranny pulled but included $800.00,so here is my delima,think i am gonna sell the fwd,to get the awd running.How much can i ask for it well whats a reasonal price here's the mods.
12k miles on the motor all mitsu parts rebuilt by me,(mechanic by profession)
arp head studs,topline non tick lifters
brand new mitsu valve seals
balance shafts removed
wally 225
aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
lc1 with innovate auto timer
cx racing fmic shot route piping
tial Q bov
ds-map speed density
punishment racing budget tubular manifold
Tranny grinds in 2nd gear,but i have a replacement tranny sitting at the shop which i will give the buyer with the car,with a brand new mitsu stock clutch and pp,so yeah don't think i can take less than 3500 for it,what do you guys think? Oh i will even throw in a dell laptop,to make tuning no hassle.
 
It all depends how bad ther person wants it but if you put the tranny on the good one and leave the laptop the minimum should be 3,000.i just paid 2500 for a tsi with a stage 4 shep tranny so it al depends how hard they are to come by in your area and how bad they want the car
 
why not put your rebuilt engine and other goodies on the awd to get it going,then keep the fwd for parts(if you have a place to keep it).never hurts to have extra parts(i've got three parts cars.
 
what do you guys think about this??

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

ive been talking to him and he says it needs a 2 tow core radiator, a new turbo, paint job, front mount intercooler is bent, the tags have expired, he "says" it has been rebuilt with bigger pistons and high performance valves etc. he also says the reason he says it needs a new turbo is because when it hits ten lbs of boost it doesnt push further. he went down to 3000 on the phone and then texted me saying even 2500 idn it sounds kinda fishy that he wants it gone so bad. but let me know what you guys think

i really want a tsi awd or a gsx but there just so damn hard to come accross here for a decent price
 
i just bought a 91 talon tsi from a buddy of mine, it's red with the black top. the timing belt broke on it so i got it and rebuilt the motor from the ground up. new ACL main and rod bearings, ARP main, rod, and head studs, new CNC motorsports pistons and rings, cometic metal head gasket, the head has cams in it(idk the duration) but it's definantly not stock, it has BC titanium springs and retainers, ported intake mani and TB, has a pacesetter header with 16g turbo and full 3 inch Jamco downpipe, and 3 inch greddy cat back, has 550cc denso injectors, and DSMlink for tuning. It has a new aluminum radiator(idk the brand), XSboost MBC, custom UICP, K&N filter, brand new CAS and power transitor, has KYB struts, big brake kit with drilled and slotted rotors, 18in Enkies, walbro 255 pump, with full AN fitted stainless lines with an aeromotive FPR, and a stage 3 6 puck clutch kit(idk the brand). the car has 60k miles on it, and the engine has litterally 128 miles on the rebuild (i have receipts). The bad part is, there is an electrical issue that i cannot figure out. The car will run great and pull hard but it'll up and descide to shut off at random. It's not the engine cause i hear the ECU click and it shuts off. You can test drive it, and even see what i mean with the click. but how much would this car be worth? oh and it's a 5 speed
 
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