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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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Yeah! The old "Well I'll call you thing." Give him your number, tell him your offer, and wait. I doubt anyone (except for an idiot hon-duh owner looking to cross over to the darkside) will give him that much for a car in need of 1500-2000$ worth of work.
 
Yeah! The old "Well I'll call you thing." Give him your number, tell him your offer, and wait. I doubt anyone (except for an idiot hon-duh owner looking to cross over to the darkside) will give him that much for a car in need of 1500-2000$ worth of work.

exactly...that is my concern...the work that needs to be done. I mean tires, suspension, alignment....prob close to 800 - 1000 there. Plus the FMIC hook up and whatever else ya know. Oh and AC condensor!
 
What do you guys think about a 95 gsx with 135,xxx miles:

bad:

-Needs new exhaust, but has one that can be put on

-Ac needs to be recharged (Meaning it probably leaks and would need to be replaced)

-Ebrake needs to be re-adjusted (not sure if that cold be something major or not)

-interior is in decent shape and will need to be torn out and completely cleaned (mice got in, died, and now it smells)

-There is a crack in the windshield.

-Passenger side strut tower rust (looks to be not a huge hole yet),

Supposedly has rebuilt trans, Act 2600 clutch, new timing belt but there are no receipts so how would I know if any of this was really done.



Asking price is $3,500 right now.


I'm thinking ~$350 for strut tower repair, $350 for a windshield, time for pulling the interior, ~$200 to get the A/C fixed

KBB for this car in mint condition is still only like $3,000. What do you think I should offer? Haven't looked at it yet, but based on this description want to give me a good idea?
 
Kelley blue book cannot be counted as accurate most of the time due to upgrades and the current economy. I'd say it sounds decent for the price. Pics? I'd try to bargain though, offer him like 3k. See if he will go down even just a little.
 
Kelley blue book cannot be counted as accurate most of the time due to upgrades and the current economy. I'd say it sounds decent for the price. Pics? I'd try to bargain though, offer him like 3k. See if he will go down even just a little.

I understand that KBB cannot be fully accurate, but I brought it up because even in Excellent condition it only has this car at $3,000. This car is no where near "Excellent" condition and would rate between "Fair" and "Poor" on their scale.

This car is basically stock so I wouldn't really count mods in there since there aren't any, but if I was to get it for $3,000 and then say put about another 1,000 -1,500 into it to fix it does that seem reasonable for a 2GA?

Also, I've never bought a used AWD car so I'm not sure what to listen to or look for on the transmission side. Would it make noise if the rear end was going out?

Basically here is what my plans are / were.

I was going to do a fully built motor and turbo set up on the 420a. I was looking at spending about $6,000 based on my parts list. I told myself the only reason I'd leave the 420a platform was if an AWD came along for a low price, and one may have come around.

Now I know it is easy to just say "Z.O.M.G 4g63 factory turbo car awd " which seems to be the mindset of 90% of the people on here, but I don't feel like spending money on it if its overpriced.


Thanks
 
I would not say it's overpriced necessarily. The reason I said KBB is not very accurate, is the fact that it does not really take into consideration of how rare these cars may be in certain parts of the US. In cali, this car is worth about 3k. Where I live, they could get about 5k because of how rare it is. I'd vote test drive it, get a compression test done, and fully look over the body. See if you think it's worth 3. I would for sure try to bargain with the guy and get it a little lower. Can you upload some pictures so we can atleast see if it is visually worth 3k.
 
I would not say it's overpriced necessarily. The reason I said KBB is not very accurate, is the fact that it does not really take into consideration of how rare these cars may be in certain parts of the US. In cali, this car is worth about 3k. Where I live, they could get about 5k because of how rare it is. I'd vote test drive it, get a compression test done, and fully look over the body. See if you think it's worth 3. I would for sure try to bargain with the guy and get it a little lower. Can you upload some pictures so we can atleast see if it is visually worth 3k.

I know exactly what you're getting at, and in fact I even ran a KBB using different zip codes around the country before you had posted that :cool: . The plan is definatly to test drive it, but I want to go in there with an idea of what this car is actually worth and not have my emotions play a part in it. I did that with my last car and paid too much for it. At the time it was just what I wanted so I was so excited to have found it I paid more then what it was worth. I don't want too look back in a week and think "WTF was I thinking paying that much?".

You have a Pm crimson


Thanks
 
A little while back i posted a thread about the Dilemmas of life (search that if you like)...well now i come to you guys for opinions....ive found a car...here are the specs...

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS Turbo

Car was JUST inspected! (NYS)

5-speed manual transmission
2.0L turbo engine
power windows
flip-top sunroof
aftermarket JVC CD player
rebuilt engine has less than 70,000 miles on it, but odometer reads approximately 200,840.
FOUR BRAND NEW tires
NEW brakes - pads and rotors - front AND back
NEW wheel bearings - front
NEW calipers - back

The only mechanical issues are - slight stutter on acceleration (only happens intermittently, when you take your foot off the gas it stops) and when using cruise control, and A/C is not working.


$1000 (firm) is what they want for it, owned my an older couple. Pictures here...1990 GST

So, should i take sometime off work to go look at it/drive it...im trying to sell my Spyder but low ballers are the only people interested...
 
I would rather have a cleaner more dependable running car. I will never do the maf-t setup again! It runs funny from the blow through set up and I'd have to tune a lot from that.. So, I just want to keep my dsm Link and i'd be happy..
 
I'm going to look at a 92 laser rs awd tomorrow. Couple of questions.

#1 he says it's firing on three cylinders, he has replaced all plugs and the wires, could it be the distributer?


#2 He says it's a 13sec cars here's the list of mods.

Short throw shifter
slow boy racing front mount intercooler (not instaled)
small 16g turbo with hard piping
255 walbro fuel pump
750 injectors
new timing belt
multilayer head gasket
short throw shifter
rebuilt transmission
tein axels
NEX coilovers
apexi boost controller
blitz turbo timer
big sunpro tachometer with shift light
carbon fiber hood and gas cap
wings west bodykit
probe rims with brand new tires all around
tuned at 18 pounds

could this really do 13 flat in the quarter?

Thanks for your helps,
Vette
 
Our cars run on coilpacks, not a DIS. The coilpack could possibly be bad. Have him run it at idle and do a cylinder balance test by pulling off plug wires one by one. The cylinder with the least change in RPM is the one that isn't contributing. As for the 13sec question, that seems like it could do a solid 13 with all 4 cylinders working properly and a decent driver.
 
How hard is it to access the coils and how much does a new coil cost? cause if i end up buying it, i'd like to drive it home.
 
The fact that he already replaced the plugs and wires rules those out of the equation. And if it really is running on 3 cylinders, like he says it is, It could be a dead injector, or a bad coil. Do the power balance test to narrow it down to which cylinder is the cause, then check spark to that cylinder. That's where I'd start. And the coil isn't hard to access, it's on the driver's side mounted on the intake manifold. Follow the plug wires to it, you'll find it.
 
I would also borrow a compression tester from a friend or go pick one up at Sears for 30 bucks if you are serious about the car. It could be something simple or pretty major. A compression test will tell you a lot. If all cylinders come up around 150psi or so you are doing pretty good. If not you will need a head, head gasket, or piston and rings. Do your homework to save a lot of hassles later. And yes, that car could run low 13s if running correctly.
 
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