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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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mitsumikey said:
yeah that rx7 is pretty cheap, but close to ontario, and i would swap the engine anyways, so i dont want a really expensive one if i m not keeping the engine.
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Okay, seriously, the FD is a rare car, a triumph in automotive history. I think you should consider an FD kit car if you want a different engine in it. You're basically talking about destroying an engineering masterpiece here, gutting the bay of a twin-turbo FD. If you still would rather do an engine swap, find one on ebay or craigslist with a salvage title or a non-running engine. Work off of that.

A non-rotary RX-7 isn't a real RX-7. Just like how a man with a vagina isn't a real man.
 
Right now I drive a peice of 420a garbage.

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I'm looking to buy either a GSX or GST. The one that caught my attention is the following. I just want to know from the more experience if it's a good buy and things to look for.

I asked him the reason for rebuild because I was wondering about crank walk and I'm waiting for a response.

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T

Thanks
 

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So I've been on these forums forever and never posted, but I also don't own a DSM. A friend's uncle owns a gas station locally and someone brought in a '95 Talon (AWD) to be checked out and repaired. Turns out there's more problems than the car is worth, according to the gas station owner. Owner of the car is asking $800, I think he's full of crap. All the information below was acquired by me personally by looking at the car, not just a list from someone else. I went over the car as well as I could parked in a parking lot.

Here's the rundown:
-'95 Talon TSi AWD 5-speed
-101,xxx miles
-Black w/ gray cloth interior
-Practically new Toyo Proxes4 tires (225 width, didn't write down the other dimensions)
-Has the following mods: K&N cone filter, custom turbo-back exhaust, manual boost controller, turbo timer, boost gauge, oil catch can (that's all I was able to notice)
-Comes with a few spare parts

Here are the problems:
-Paint is basically worthless
-Something is leaking around the hatch (see pictures)
-Massive oil leak somewhere, my suspicion is the valve cover but it may be more serious than that
-Water pump is gone
-Timing belt needs replaced
-Driver's door does not open from the outside, I suspect the lock mechanism since it can be opened from the outside
-Driver's seat has 2 small tears
-Interior needs torn out completely and cleaned panel-by-panel, it's nasty; it doesn't smell though; carpet WILL need replaced I'm guessing; headliner needs replaced due to being ruined near windshield
-No headunit, noticed aftermarket speakers in the back but couldn't tell on the front, so I'm assuming there's basically a non-existent/worthless audio system
-Missing coolant fill cap for some reason, might be in the gas station somewhere by accident

Pictures can be found here: Login to a private Photobucket.com album
Password: talondsm

Car idles pretty smoothly, but I didn't want to leave it running too long given that the coolant isn't circulating with the water pump being dead. Don't know what else to tell you. Basically I want to know what you think it's worth or if it's even worth fixing if I can get it for a couple hundred dollars. It's not for my primary car (I have a perfectly fine '95 Maxima as it is), this is a project basically. Thanks in advance for taking a look and helping out!
 
Sounds like a good project car, if you already have a car to drive than it can't hurt to have another to work on. It's up to you to decide if you have the money, time, and desire to take on a big project, but they are fun cars when they work right!
 
I would offer him $500 for it and see if he takes it. It will be a lot of work though and make sure you know what you are getting into. If its not your primary car only a project car then I would say go for it because you don't need to rely on it to get around. Oh and by the way, the pictures do not show up, your account is password protected so we can't view it.
 
Drive it. I wouldn't do anything or make any decisions until you can see how it runs first hand. Other than that do a thorough check for anything out of the ordinary.

I would say that the price is about normal, make sure to find out about maintenance though...

As to whether it is a "safe" buy, is buying a dsm ever safe?
 
kanderson said:
Drive it. I wouldn't do anything or make any decisions until you can see how it runs first hand. Other than that do a thorough check for anything out of the ordinary.

I would say that the price is about normal, make sure to find out about maintenance though...

As to whether it is a "safe" buy, is buying a dsm ever safe?
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Good call. As for the parts it has, anything that you'd reccomend replacing?
 
My apologies on the password thing, I didn't realize it was set like that. Password is "talondsm" and I edited the original post to include that.

EDIT: Just made it public anyway. Let me know if it works.
 
i would see if you could get it for less then 800 and if u could then i would get it it looks like a good platform to start with if it only your project car.. but also remember since its a project car you know your gonna b sinkin alot of money into it
 
your car looks pretty sexy. why not just get a home made turbo for it?
 
project98rs said:
i would see if you could get it for less then 800 and if u could then i would get it it looks like a good platform to start with if it only your project car.. but also remember since its a project car you know your gonna b sinkin alot of money into it
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Assuming the worst case scenario of the car needing a whole new motor, new carpet, and new hatch seals, what am I looking at cost-wise? I'm talking parts-only, I'd be doing everything myself.

I have a specific question about the transmission, too, since it's a 5-speed. What's the deal with 4th gear? I was able to find every gear, including reverse, easily. When it came to 4th though the car didn't seem to want to go into 4th as easily as the other gears. I found what I thought to be 4th gear, but it didn't slide in as far as the other gears did, if that makes any sense. Like it seemed like it was only going halfway in and stopping?

Also, is the clutch engagement point pretty high up normally? Seems like I barely needed to press the pedal down to engage the clutch.
 
My clutch engages right near the floor, although these clutches are notorious for being very light/easy to press down.

No problems with fourth gear for me, haven't really heard about it being problematic for others either, but it could just be adjusted wrong. Probably not if only fourth though...
 
Honestly it's difficult for me to tell. Like I think it's in 4th gear, it just seems like it would be too easy to knock it out of gear by accident compared to the other gears. I don't have any experience with these transmissions though so I'm not sure what it's supposed to feel like normally. I also didn't get to drive the car (didn't want to with a dead water pump), so I don't know what it's like with the vehicle running and moving either.
 
Prob why of the hard shifting into 4th is that the FMIC pipes are running into the 'shift' linkage on the tranny for that gear, since the 'select' linkage is in the (middle) position.

Pop the hood, have the car in neutral and see if you can move both 'select' and 'shift' linkages freely by hand. The 'select' is the one that goes up and down, and the 'shift' moves left and right. Low position is 1-2, middle position is 3-4 and the high position is 5th and R.
 
BigSorn said:
gut it and make it a race car!
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That would be a cheap and easy option, wouldn't it? :D If I got this car I'd want it to be my weekend fun car, though. I'm talking street driven fun. Either that or part the thing out I guess.

DSM1G90 said:
Prob why of the hard shifting into 4th is that the FMIC pipes are running into the 'shift' linkage on the tranny for that gear, since the 'select' linkage is in the (middle) position.

Pop the hood, have the car in neutral and see if you can move both 'select' and 'shift' linkages freely by hand. The 'select' is the one that goes up and down, and the 'shift' moves left and right. Low position is 1-2, middle position is 3-4 and the high position is 5th and R.
Click to expand...
I will see if I can't do that next time. Where abouts are they located and is it necessary to have the car on a lift or anything? The car has the stock SMIC, btw.
 
salvageable rx7 s are hard to find, i just want a reliable fast good looking car. I see what you are saying but many people have got sick of the rotarys poor reliablility and milage and do the swap, its a damn sexy car, but i would not have the patients for the engine
 
Just pop the hood and look down by the left side of the engine, right on top of the transmission. You don't have to have it jacked up or anything, just reach in from the top.

I also don't see how an intercooler pipe could obstruct the linkage because it is pretty buried/deep in the engine bay. Could be something else jamming it though.
 
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