The Official "What Should I Spend Money On?" Thread [Merged 10-6]

[MyÜberFastGSX]

A high flow fuel rail is a good thing to get even if you're not running single digits.
Even if it's only because they look cool.

.jk.

I suppose you could take the $170 you would pay for a fuel rail and get a pocketlogger and a pda

 

[staticbrainwash]

Or ebay a palm m130 like i did for like 40 bucks, dl mmcd for free. And get a cable for 15 bucks, which may already have mmcd with it.

My whole logger set up cost me MAYBE 50 bucks 60 shipped.

Past that i'd go with what everyone else said.

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

No offense to OP, but you have a lot of appearance mods (listed under speed mods no less, sorry they don't make you faster) and very few performance mods. Take all that crap off and revert back to stock, sell them to some 16 year old on ebay, and now you have a $1200 or so budget to work with. Based off your mod list...

1. Airflow (all intake and exhaust piping)
2. Fuel support and management (injectors, AFPR, logger)
3. SS autochrome FMIC
4. Evo 16G (when you scrounge up a bit more cash)

 

[JaxTalonTSi]

Dsms are not hondas, where NAWWWWWWWWWS is always the answer

Everybody is always against the spray, I don't know why. I have been messing with these cars for the last two and a half years, and if there is one thing that puzzles me is why people always want to do stuff the hard way, and try to go fast for as much money as they can spend. We put a wet nitrous kit on a stock 14b FWD 1g, ran open 02, we had a logger to monitor knock and timing advance, an aftermarket boost guage, and an Aeromotive AFPR. We never dynod the car or taken it to the track, but after smoking the piss out of a Suzuki Katana and a friend's 2g FWD with an AGP 50 trim and EVERY bolt on immaginable, we think that the car trapped roughtly 115-117 in the quarter. I'd like to see a Honda do that.

Point is, if you just want to empty your wallet quickly, go jump into the "upgrade path" right away. If you want to go fast for cheap, get a good wet nitrous kit.

 

[DSMunknown]

Point is, if you just want to empty your wallet quickly, go jump into the "upgrade path" right away. If you want to go fast for cheap, get a good wet nitrous kit.

I think you have that backwards. The "Upgrade Path" shows an individual how to make easy but efficient (and of course, long term) modifications. Presumably, an upgraded exhaust will always be on the car. Presumably, an aftermarket RV will hold more boost than the OEM POS. The gains seen will (presumably) not go away.

With a bottle, at one point or another, you need a refill. Refills cost money. More refills cost more money. Thus, it's a drain on your wallet.

John S. has done extremely well without the use of nitrous oxide. Sure, not everyone is an expert like John is, but it proves that one doesn't "need" nitrous oxide to be well into the 7s.

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

Point is, if you just want to empty your wallet quickly, go jump into the "upgrade path" right away. If you want to go fast for cheap, get a good wet nitrous kit.

I'm sorry, did you just brag about beating a katana? Heh.

Anyway, no thanks. Because when you're off the bottle, outta nitrous, you're still slow. Bottle are for babies.

 

[JaxTalonTSi]

I think you have that backwards. The "Upgrade Path" shows an individual how to make easy but efficient (and of course, long term) modifications. Presumably, an upgraded exhaust will always be on the car. Presumably, an aftermarket RV will hold more boost than the OEM POS. The gains seen will (presumably) not go away.

With a bottle, at one point or another, you need a refill. Refills cost money. More refills cost more money. Thus, it's a drain on your wallet.

John S. has done extremely well without the use of nitrous oxide. Sure, not everyone is an expert like John is, but it proves that one doesn't "need" nitrous oxide to be well into the 7s.

There isn't anything wrong with the upgrade path, I just disagree that it's the answer to every enthusiasts's quest for power. DSM enthusiasts are typicly the group that value the "bang for your buck" or "dollar/hp" gains. Nitrous oxide is probably the best bet, and it dissapoints me that it's not in the upgrade path on this board.

How much do you think it costs to make 350-400 whp? According to the DSMTuners' Tech Guide Upgrade Path, "Stage II" level of modification will tally up roughly $5000.

A Stage 2 setup can cost around $5000 for parts and can raise power output on a 1G DSM to nearly 400hp or more depending on the turbo upgrade and level of tuning (that's around 340whp).

So, your saying for the average guy who has a beater 1g, and is on a budget, a wet nitrous kit is a bad idea? I'd rather spend $500 on a wet kit, and $50 or so on the weekend to fill up the bottle and run some 100 octane to go race. You figure we probably make 150-160whp stock, and a 75-80hp shot on a forced induction application will probably yeild another 100-115hp. Couple that with a 3" exahust, the free mods, and 350hp is easily in reach. Sure, the power isn't always "on", but if anything, it'll probably help you out in the long run by putting less stress on the engine AT ALL TIMES, only on the weekend or whenever you want to dog on it, not to mention increase overall reliability over a bunch of aftermarket bolt ons. And it's not like even a lightly modded 14b car isn't enough for most Civics and other imports off the spray anyway.

Like I said earlier, I'm not against the upgrade path. I have two DSMs, and my 2g is sporting a 50 trim and supporting mods now. It is LONG TERM, of course, and there isn't anything wrong with planning these types of modification. But if I knew what I know now two years or so ago, I would have had spray and a few mods, and bought and stockpiled my 16g and supporting mods untill I had everything to put on at once.

 

[JaxTalonTSi]

I'm sorry, did you just brag about beating a katana? Heh.

Anyway, no thanks. Because when you're off the bottle, outta nitrous, you're still slow. Bottle are for babies.

A bike is a bike, sir. A Katana still traps roughly 110-112 in the quarter, and believe it or not, there are plenty of guys with slow DSMs with 16gs and supporting mods. Once again, I'll go over said car and mod list:

1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo FWD
unbolted exahust at 02 sensor housing- FREE
free mods- FREE
Hard UICP- USED on loan
Autometer boost guage- USED $25
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump -$80
Aeromotive AFPR w/ guage -new unit with lines and rail fitting, $190
MBC - FREE
Nytrex Wet Nitrous Kit jetted for 80hp shot- used $450

We estimated around 300-375hp at less than $800. How is this a bad thing? What other single bolt on will yeild as much power for that amount of cash?

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

Vid? Dyno? Meanwhile, I'll go find me one of those go-karts to race, everyone knows bikes are for ladies and all the real track kings stand 30 inches!

 

[Bmxr152]

I am soon going to recive $3,000 and was going to get a shepard racing stage 1 transmission and Spec stage 3 clutch. So that takes out about $1,400. So what im asking is what should i do with $1,600. Any imput will help. My mods are in my profile.

 

[1gcrazy]

I am soon going to recive $3,000 and was going to get a shepard racing stage 1 transmission and Spec stage 3 clutch. So that takes out about $1,400. So what im asking is what should i do with $1,600. Any imput will help. My mods are in my profile.

I'm thinking you should go with a Stage 2 or 3 honestly. I'm aiming for a stage 3 myself and my goals are 11.5. Its better to OVER-build than to do it twice...

Then with your 900 left get a decent sized turbo... and/or lightened flywheel and a 2600lb clutch.

I buy used so when I part out the car i'm not out any more cash than i've already put into her...
I can't really think of anything else. I'm still trying to figure out my basic mods...but my motors built

 

[Bmxr152]

My engine is built besides rods. I was mabie thinking about building the head, but didnt know what would be too much for my setup. Did you see any diffrence with the Fidanza flywheel? I want a good clutch, my clutch slips everytime i make a hard pass now, plus my second gear grinds more and more often.

 

[1gcrazy]

My engine is built besides rods. I was mabie thinking about building the head, but didnt know what would be too much for my setup. Did you see any diffrence with the Fidanza flywheel? I want a good clutch, my clutch slips everytime i make a hard pass now, plus my second gear grinds more and more often.

I havn't driven on the flywheel yet. Hopefully i'll be done with everything by the end of the summer.
If you're clutch keeps slipping then factor in a clutch for sure. I'm sure that 16g stops making power before redline so the only way a built head would help would be if you were running cams and bought a turbo that could still make power at 8k and even then, you'd need a transmission to take the beating. Not to mention you're rods will probably end up on the highway since our stock rods will push power but not RPM's.
A built head WOULD help if you were running beefier cams but then again you're turbo's kind of small to take advantage of that...or at least I think so...
You could start one at a time. I would get the beefier shep tranny. the clutch, you're at 2500 there or there abouts. Then you'll have enough for some valve springs. Your next mod could be cams or a turbo or both.

If it were me, I would yank the motor and throw some forged rods in there. Thats why I built first so I wont have to worry about it later.

Edit. You could always get cams with the stock springs and just keep the revs from floating your valves...

 

[Bmxr152]

I have comp cams 200's which are comparable to the HKS 272's and they pull all the way to 7800 rpm's. For sure the Shep tranny stage 2, stage 3 spec clutch, Fidanza flywheel.

 

[1gcrazy]

I have comp cams 200's which are comparable to the HKS 272's and they pull all the way to 7800 rpm's. For sure the Shep tranny stage 2, stage 3 spec clutch, Fidanza flywheel.

Ok so 1400+300 for shipping. Thats 1700. Now, brian crower springs are 200 bucks and you dont really need titanium retainers. Thats 1900. New 2600 flywheel is what, 400? I bought mine used for 140 so if you dont mind buying used you can save a bundle. So say you bought new, thats 2300. Now add the 200 flywheel and you're at a grand total of 2500 bucks.

500 bucks will take you a long way...lemme think on that one.

 

[1gcrazy]

I dunno man save up for a bigger turbo...

 

[EvolvingGST]

Well you seem to have your mind set. I however would suggest getting a ACT flywheel unless you are going to race your car and only race your car. The Fidanza flywheel isn't very street friendly from what I understand ofcourse you might like dropping your tranny and replacing the fidanza aluminuim replacement flywheel sections.

I would maybe suggest also getting a FPR and doesn't list what type of fuel pump you have but atleast a 255 highflow if you dont have it.

Edit: I also like the big turbo suggestion. I mean you have a setup for a car that can run 10s and you have a 11-12 second turbo.

 

[Bmxr152]

Well you seem to have your mind set. I however would suggest getting a ACT flywheel unless you are going to race your car and only race your car. The Fidanza flywheel isn't very street friendly from what I understand ofcourse you might like dropping your tranny and replacing the fidanza aluminuim replacement flywheel sections.

I would maybe suggest also getting a FPR and doesn't list what type of fuel pump you have but atleast a 255 highflow if you dont have it.

Edit: I also like the big turbo suggestion. I mean you have a setup for a car that can run 10s and you have a 11-12 second turbo.

I do have a AFPR but no fuel pump yet, im hoping to get that when i order the clutch and flywheel. i head about the fidanza not being streetable also, i heard its because its only 8lbs and the ACT is 12lbs. Im probly going with the ACT one since shepard racing is selling them for $200.

 

[EvolvingGST]

with the couple of extra dollars you have sitting around maybe suggest selling your AFC and picking up a dsmlink for like 500-600 and getting yourself a 255 high flow and you will be able to push a lot more boost.

 

[Bmxr152]

I have a dsmlink, i just havnt wired the ecu back for stock yet so its sitting there being useless. Any reccomendations on the Shepard trannys?

 

[EvolvingGST]

Stage 3 is probably the one I will get when my car finally takes a dive. I believe that is actually what everyone in the club in Ma runs.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

In the spring time I plan on doing a few things to my car to make it a bit more enjoyable to drive. I'm not really looking into upgrading the turbo at this point. So I was interested in some suggestions. I'd like to spend $1000-1500 not more then that though. The only things done to my car right now are gauges and a dejon tool intake, 2.5" exhaust (has a good sound not sure if I wanna change this). It doesn't have an after market down pipe which I'm going to buy, what about hard ICP's is it worth it? I might consider getting an SSQV recirculated just for the change in tone, but I'm not sure. I will only be running 15lbs of boost, so I don't know if it's exactly worth it. Any tips/thoughts on parts would be appreciated.

 

[218dsm]

look into the hard piping.the blow-off valve and maybe some cams..comp 101200's are nice and a decent price.and etc.... just a thought

 

[McFox]

Have you looked into DSMLink?

I hear it is great for 4g63's. Good way to get some extra power out of you car. Plus if you plan on modifying your car down the road you will need it anyways to tune.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

Have you looked into DSMLink?

I hear it is great for 4g63's. Good way to get some extra power out of you car. Plus if you plan on modifying your car down the road you will need it anyways to tune.

I don't really plan on going far enough to warrant buying it. It's really just a DD that I'd like to have some fun with. I'm thinking possibly some exhaust parts to give it some extra power? everything is stock on it minus the piping, cat, and muffler.