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The Official "What Should I Spend Money On?" Thread [Merged 10-6]

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I've got a set of stock '93 alloy 16" wheels with good rubber that I want $150. for but I see no advantage for you with them. I can tune the car for your needs in 30 minutes. I have a "scanmaster" that plugs into the diagnostic port and Reads out real time knock and timing. Get some race gas in it and we can find out how much boost you can run witout knock and keep the timing advance at or above 15*. Like I said. High boost on race, light weight, no muffler, just a straight pipe and a tune. plus what you do for an IC. The weather will be cool in october. You willneed to hit 3rd gear for the 1/10th mie. I don't know if there are any 14" rims that fit the talon but you could jump the gear ratio by .30 or more with shorter tires. I feel the AWD's have a 3.90 set-up and shore tires could net you a 4.30 ratio. That would help much. Anyone know of smaller wheels that would fit the talon? mark
 
Maybe we can work something out for the wheels i will prolly get ahold of you to meet up with me around the end of sept, i should have the car done from my end by then.
 
i totally hope you kick his ass. a friend of mine has a '48 chevy pickup with a 400 in it or something..he's always talkin trash about how us 'import boys' don't know anything about power etc. etc...its always been my dream to beat him with my car, but alas college boys don't have much money. beat this guy and i'll be sure to show him this thread...LOL car and parts for $500 or less. sweet action.
 
Well if this is only for one pass at the track and you are not even worried about the car. I would go crazy. Hell don't even hook up the wastegate. Run C16 Race gas. Take off all unneeded items like emmisions, a/c, even blower motor and controls. All that crap. Since you have to have your exhaust exiting the car run a straight 3" pipe right out the reat or even in fromt of the rear pass tire. I would also run that NOS kit with 200hp nozzels and not turn it on until you shit into 2nd and let it go. Crush the top of the stock Fuel Pressure regulator so you can get some good pressure and maybe see about swapping the fuel pump with a newer pump from a V8 as they are pretty decent and you have a salvage yard at your dispossale. That way you'll get more Fuel for the added Boost running full race gas to help detonation from all that added HOT air. Oh a thought. Build a intercooler Ice box so you can Ice up your Intercooler for the race. Wouldn't cost you but the raw materials to build it. I could do it for like 10-20 bucks. Throw a bag of Ice on it about 10-20 minutes before the Race and you'll be blowing decently cold air into the motor for even more power.

Now this is most likely going to end up being the total demise of the engine and maybe even the entire car. But you never said in the rules you had to drive to the track. It would run like utter crap at idle cause of all that added fuel from the crushed FPR, but it's cheeper than new injectors which is your entire budget.

Good luck. I love a challange also but I'm not sure I would have taken on this one. IF I did I would do what I mentioned and pretty much thrown the car away when I was finished.
 
It's going to be really close. Without some good tuning and some tricks you're screwed.

A high 12 second 1/4 mile DSM is going to run the tenth in like 7 seconds, approximately. Definately not down in the 6's.

Your best bet is lots of nitrous, lots of boost, lots of race gas, and lots of weight reduction.

Run C-16, don't mix it with pump gas. Run a 150 shot of nitrous, and run 20-25 psi on the 14b. That will probably be enough to beat him, if the clutch holds and you can lighten the car up.

If you have 1000 dollars to work with, I would be much more opimistic than I am with you having 500 bucks.

Take out everything, gut the interior like mad. Pull out the glovebox, stuff like that. If that sort of thing does not matter, get rid of it all.
 
maglin... i love the help you have given, but i dont want to ruin the car. Im going to run cam2 on 25psi, also the ice idea is goon, but i have 4 12oz c02 tanks left over from when i was a paintballer, im going to build an interchiller out of 3/8 brake line (drilling 1mil. wholes in it) to ice the ic, i will be making 3 passes against this guy, and i have to find out fore sure what he runs in the 1/10, 6 is what a friend said, he is also a muscle buff. I will have to get word from sweet97 about getting my bottle filled in auburn, i really didnt want to use the bottle because if he loses he will say i used cheater juice. I looks like i will have no choice but to spray, Also, mark i may need a hand installing the n20
 
I would not mess with the NOX. Too much to go wrong unless you had expensive electronics to control it. There is 112 leaded availale here. I don't know about cam2. Again I can tune the car for the boost in about 30 minutes but don't wait until last minute. I am disabled and move a bit slow.
like I said. 25 PSI on good fuel.
lighten the car as much as possible
no muffler just a straight pipe
If you can spray the IC with co2 simply with a shifter mounted switch that would be ok. I am near auburn, where are you? mark
 
OK but don't you have the "start" and "end" reversed?...LOL Do you want me to drive to OVID?
My car is in the shop today for an ACT 2600 install. Then I need to remove the EVO 16G that I sold and instal my new turbo. I have a "Scanmaster" from full throttle speed that gives knok and timing advance in real, actual time. I can plug it into your diagnostic post and get you set within 30 mnutes.
Did you say you might be interested in my stock '93 Talon AWD 16" alloy wheells w/good rubber for $150.?
i believe that is a great price and I just want them sold.
Is your car driveable as it sits? What is mthe octane of cam2? find out. Sunoco 112 "BLUE" leaded available here. mark
 
Your going to need a nasty launch to have any chance. You will need an upgraded clutch to accomplish this, most likely an ACT 2600. Other than that a MBC, open air K&N, fuel pump and exhaust will allow you to run 20+ psi of boost on race gas. Your going to have to hack you MAF some to avoid fuel cut. Of course weight reduction is another obvious choice on a budget such as yours.

After all this you still won't have a chance in hell. Your not going to beat a car with twice the horse power unless he does something wrong.
 
LessIsMore said:
Your going to need a nasty launch to have any chance. You will need an upgraded clutch to accomplish this, most likely an ACT 2600. Other than that a MBC, open air K&N, fuel pump and exhaust will allow you to run 20+ psi of boost on race gas. Your going to have to hack you MAF some to avoid fuel cut. Of course weight reduction is another obvious choice on a budget such as yours.

After all this you still won't have a chance in hell. Your not going to beat a car with twice the horse power unless he does something wrong.


AGAIN.. i am not changing the clutch. And we will see how it goes on the track :thumb:
 
Yeah forgot about the MAF. I remembered it when I went to bed the other night. Well just remove the honey combs and hack off the bottom of the MAF. That should allow you to stay away from fuel cut. That is going to be the next hurdle for you. Also Juice is not cheating. I personally don't care for it, but people race it all the time. I believe I don't recall you betting you had to be all motor with no juice. He has a lot of displacement on you and probably doesn't need NOS to make 500 HP.

FYI I'm currenlty building a 70 Skylark with twin GT42's on a L82 SBC. I'm looking to put down about 800-900 HP. American muscle is still a passion of mine. But I truely do hope that you can beat this guy who has to take his dyno slip around with him everywhere to brag.
 
Maglin said:
FYI I'm currenlty building a 70 Skylark with twin GT42's on a L82 SBC. I'm looking to put down about 800-900 HP. American muscle is still a passion of mine. But I truely do hope that you can beat this guy who has to take his dyno slip around with him everywhere to brag.

His dyno slip isnt even from his car, its from the stock car he got the motor out of, and it had a single 1200cfm carb on it when dyno'd, now it has a dual highride intake with two 650cfm carbs, so who knows what hes pushing, its also got press bend 2.25 dual exhaust
 
Maglin said:
FYI I'm currenlty building a 70 Skylark with twin GT42's on a L82 SBC. I'm looking to put down about 800-900 HP. American muscle is still a passion of mine. But I truely do hope that you can beat this guy who has to take his dyno slip around with him everywhere to brag.

simply gorgeous car.. one of my favs...

what are the specs on your l82?
 
pinknuggit said:
simply gorgeous car.. one of my favs...

what are the specs on your l82?
It's a 4 bolt out of a 80 Vette. Bored .020 over, decked and line honed. Power Forged Pistons currently on stock rods (shot peened and polished), Steel Crank, Comp Cams custom grind blower cam solid lifter w/ 310/320 int/exh duration @ .020 lift and .375 lift and 114 lobe separation (happend to have the cam spec card in front of me :) (I was going to put a 8-71 on it)). The heads are from the same vette with 2.02 intake and I think 1.5 exhaust valves, Milled and new 3 angle valve job. The CR should be around 9:1 if not maybe 9.2:1. Depends on the Head gaskets I go with. I'll probably go with a thicker copper gasket to lower the CR a tad for the big turbos. I haven't got the turbo's yet as I just decided to turbo it. I'll probably only push like 12 psi max with it and let someone else take it off my hands and blow it up. W/O EFI it's a little scary to run high boost and have no way to control detonation. I'm looking for the 800 HP range for power. The car I have is fairly straight with only one fender that needs to be replaced due to deer activity.

Sorry to talk non thread stuff in your thread 99 gst 420a dsm.
 
As much as you don't want to change your clutch my opinion is that a 2600 would be one of the best ways to go. If this guy is pushing that much HP and running that quick then his suspension must be already set-up for a good launch. And if he has a good set of slicks (even d.o.t.) you are going to need one hell of a launch. He probably has some mods in his tranny as well so you are really going to want a hole shot. You need your tires to hook and hook right away, once you have good footing let the go-juice fly. I've got a '71 Javelin and I've beaten lots of cars with more power than me simply due to the fact that they only modded their engine and overlooked the suspension/drivetrain. This silly little challenge will also be relying heavily on weather conditions. I just hate to see a 1g turbo getting trashed for just one day of use like this. Thats just my opnion again though.
 
i got a serious offer on the car last night, if the guy comes through im going to have to find something new to run...
 
Yea, sorry to let you all down but the car is sold... And i dont think my 1991 tsi awd with the auto trans can take that kind of a beating.
 
If that would get you outa wearing a mini-skirt I'da done the same thing!

Honestly It was a bit cockey to say you could do such a thing. Just the proper equipment to tune and fuel the thing would exceed your budget. I think someone hit the nail on the head when they mentioned the clutch. I don't think the stock clutch would hold all the power needed for a winning launch anyhow.

I'm glad to see you got a bit of money out of the car. This sort of thing happens all the time. I've personally made offered to misc. people on their cars. especially ones I knew were in bad shape or blown up. Not a single 1G DSM drives by without me thinking about spare parts:) unless its obviously Modified for speed..then I stop and ask questions and chat.
 
On my old car, the night before I was going to put a new head on it, I ran it at the track on three cylinders.... I pulled a 14.1 with a 1.8 60ft with a stock clutch. It held great.
~Mark
 
how about..................timing belt, waterpump, timing tensioner, balance belt, clutch/flywheel and a job. why do people skip maintenance. You'll thank me later after overboosting or not tuning right because you spent all your money in your car just to blow it up.
 
I already did all of that including tb, tensioner, wp, all accesory belts, switched to mobile one, changed tranny fluid to bg syncroshift, checked the clutch(already had a ACT 2600#), new fuel filter, new mdp sensor, and new plugs and wires.

I am new to modding my dsm but not cars in general.

PS,

I went with;

EVO III Big 16g
550's
SAFC II (for now) dsm link later
tubular o2 housing
walbro 255
dejon tool licp
s/s oil feed line
front strut bar
ported mani
egt guage

and i am only 1k over budget :laugh:
 
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