Tension on timing belt

[FastGS-T]

Ok I just did the timing belt install on my 6-bolt motor for my 2g eclipse. I used the 1g timing belt kit. and i used the 1g tensioner bracket with 2g mount and 1g timing pulleys.

My question is: How much tension should actually be on the belt? It seems pretty tight except on the side of the belt going from the exhaust cam to the tensioner pulley. Also I can get the tensioner bracket to come up even more than the tensioner is pushing it. Its not free moving but i can still make it tighter. what is up?

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[boosted_91_tsi]

The distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body should be 0.15 - 0.18 in. Judging from the tensioner pulley in the pic above I can tell it is not tight enough. All the info can be found in the VFAQs as well as a few different idea of how to set it just right.

http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

Nice looking engine by the way, very clean. Wish I had the time and money to pull mine and build it up.

 

[daren_p]

I haven't done my t belt yet, but have read over the vfaq as I will probably need to do mine this year. If I recall arent those 2 holes in the tensioner pulley supposed to be facing down? This would put more tension on the belt. But like boosted 91 said, read over the vfaq, think some of your adjustments are out of spec.

 

[boosted_91_tsi]

Those two holes should be facing up. The first time I ever did mine it took a while just learning as I go, but now I have it down pretty good and never run into any problems. Trust me it helps to have the tensioner tool.... makes life easier. If you get started and are unsure or have a question, post up. You know where to find help.

 

[wret]

The distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body should be 0.15 - 0.18 in. Judging from the tensioner pulley in the pic above I can tell it is not tight enough. All the info can be found in the VFAQs as well as a few different idea of how to set it just right.

http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

Nice looking engine by the way, very clean. Wish I had the time and money to pull mine and build it up.

It seems that measuring the clearance is out. Judging the correct tension by being able to insert/remove the "grenade pin" is in.

FastGS-T, did you replace the tensioner? This is always recommended but, if not you will need to come up with a pin. It appears that you do not have enough tension to align the holes on tensioner.

 

[boosted_91_tsi]

I have always used the drill bit method myself instead of trying to measure it out.

 

[FastGS-T]

yes everything on this engine is brand new. I rotated the pulley till both pins were semi-straight up and i got good tension. There was a pic on the vfaq that showed the right pin at 12 o clock and the left pin a little close to 10 o clock and it seemed to work for me

should i torque it? or just make it tight

 

[boosted_91_tsi]

Torque everything to spec. I go to 38 ft. lbs on the tension bolt. Don't just go by feel for proper tension as I am sure some will tell you it will not work out. The posistion of the pins should not be used as accurate tension setting, it may be close but I would not risk it... especially with it being a brand new engine. Would suck losing it to a jumped belt.

 

[turbo8765]

I have ALWAYS measured the protusion of the tensior rod. By chance, the holes in the tensioner pulley do tend to end up around 10 and 2. I set it and then turn the engine over quite a few times. Let it sit for a while and measure.

If you run your car the way you've have it pictured the timing belt WILL slip.

Why use the "insert the grenade pin" method over measuring the rod. I just stack up bunch of feeler gauge tabs and it's very easy to do. IIRC, the way I do it, the rod is out slightly too far to re-insert the pin.

 

[steve]

One difference between the 1g and 2g timing belt procedures is how the tensioner pulley works. On 1g's the holes should be on top and the tensioner rotates clockwise into the belt to tension on the 2g's the holes are below the bolt and it rotates anti-clockwise.

So the tensioner pulley in the picture is installed and tensioned incorrectly for a 6 bolt.

Steve

 

[FastGS-T]

well see ive never done this before that is why im asking. So the pinholes on the tensioner pulley should be straight up, and when everything is tensioned the rod should be sticking out .15-.18 inches? Looking at pics of 7bolts and 6bolts on vfaq show the pinholes in all diff directions, i dont know what to do... is this right?

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[steve]

Yes, when your done a 6 bolt engine should look something like that picture.

Right now in your picture the auto-tensioner (timing belt tensioner) looks like it's fully extended. You'll need to slowly compress the pin back into it and reinsert the retaining pin.

Loosen the bolt on the tensioner pulley and rotate the pulley until the holes for the tensioner tool are on top of the bolt.

Using the tensioner tool preload the timing belt by rotating the tensioner pulley clockwise into the belt until the retaining pin in the auto-tensioner starts moving in and out freely.

Lock the tensioner pulley in place with the bolt and make sure that the retaining pin remains free to move in and out.

Rotate the crank clockwise 6 turns (to go though a full cycle) until all the timing marks line up again and check the retaining pin, wait 15 mins and check again, if it's still free torque the tensioner bolt to spec making sure not to more the pulley and then you can remove the retaining pin in the auto-tensioner.

Repeat adjusting the preload as needed if it's not correct. This is the critical adjustment and getting it wrong can cost you an engine.

Steve

 

[FastGS-T]

I didnt think i could use a tensioner tool since its a 6-bolt swap, im using a 2g motor mount not a 1g one :-/

and also how can the retaining pin move freely in and out? because it takes a vice to compress it? Or do you mean that the auto tensioner can go in and out of its place freely

 

[gsx rated98]

The granade pin that goes in the tensioner, when the timing is set, should be able to move in and out of its hole freely. When the tensioner arm is pressing down on the tensioner, it will keep it comressed so you can slide the pin in and out. If you can do this, then your timing is properly set.

As previously stated, its important to let it set and settle for about 15mins after doing the first rotations of the engine, and to recheck it, to make sure everything stayed where its suppose to.

 

[steve]

I didnt think i could use a tensioner tool since its a 6-bolt swap, im using a 2g motor mount not a 1g one :-/ and also how can the retaining pin move freely in and out? because it takes a vice to compress it? Or do you mean that the auto tensioner can go in and out of its place freely

The Tensioner tool is the one that fits into the tensioner pulley so that you can rotate it, not the threaded rod used to compress the tensioner.

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If you correctly tension/pre-load the timing belt the tensioner arm is going to push on the pin in the auro-tensioner and the pin will only extend .15-.18" from the body of the auto-tensioner not all the way like you have it now. The correct distance happens to also be when the retaining "grenade pin" is free to move about because the belt pre-load is pushing the tensioner pin in enough to line the holes up and the retaining pin is free.

Steve

 

[FastGS-T]

ok i got it, but my oil pump sprocket is one tooth off. is that ok since i dont have any balance shafts?

 

[steve]

My oil pump sprocket is one tooth off. Is that ok since I dont have any balance shafts?

Yes, the timing mark on the oil pump is only so you can time the lower balance shaft.

Do you want to take pictures of how you have it tensioned now and let us double check things?

Steve

 

[FastGS-T]

Yes i will and ill post them tonight. It all made sense this time, as when i pulled out the grenade pin the tensioner arm only came out 3-4mm instead of the entire distance. Both pinholes are also on the top now, and the belt has plenty of tension. I also torqued all of the pulleys.

But i have to leave for the drag strip as my buddys nonturbo lancer is racing with its new PnP parts! thanks steve