The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Tapping my DNp manifold.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mitsuclipsegsx

15+ Year Contributor
2,561
8
Apr 5, 2004
Dover plains, New York
Once the manifold is installed, can i still tap it. Or does it have to be out of the car. I am asking because i am installing the manifold, but having someone else tap it.


thanks
 
Are you talking about tapping for an egt probe? If you are then I would just wait, it's not worth the risk of metal shavings going through the turbine wheel.
 
Yea i am talking about the probe, if you say wait, then i will, thanks for the info
 
GVR4592 said:
Are you talking about tapping for an egt probe? If you are then I would just wait, it's not worth the risk of metal shavings going through the turbine wheel.

This is one thing I'd have to disagree with you on. Perform this with the car running, do it immediately after starting before the car warms up. Grease the hell out of the drill bit and the tap, and 90% of the shavings are going to get trapped in the grease. The little bit that doesn't will blow out, and any that does happen to go in will just blow past the turbine. If you want an extra measure of safety, pin open your wastegate. Safe, effective, proven.

Which brings me to point number two: if the manifold is already off of the car, just wait until you drill/tap before you install it.

Which brings me to point number three: If this is a DNP tubular, you're going to have to weld a bung on. Not going to be enough material to tap for one. I don't have an effective or even safe method of welding under the engine bay, for obvious reasons.
 
I have had to repair a DNP manifold that was tapped without a bung that blew out. A bung is a MUST for reliability reasons you dont want to have to worry about repairing a stripped out hole in your manifold.
Bryan
 
suicidal2af said:
This is one thing I'd have to disagree with you on. Perform this with the car running, do it immediately after starting before the car warms up. Grease the hell out of the drill bit and the tap, and 90% of the shavings are going to get trapped in the grease. The little bit that doesn't will blow out, and any that does happen to go in will just blow past the turbine. If you want an extra measure of safety, pin open your wastegate. Safe, effective, proven.

Which brings me to point number two: if the manifold is already off of the car, just wait until you drill/tap before you install it.

Which brings me to point number three: If this is a DNP tubular, you're going to have to weld a bung on. Not going to be enough material to tap for one. I don't have an effective or even safe method of welding under the engine bay, for obvious reasons.

GREAT advice here :thumb:
 
blcknspo0ln said:
GREAT advice here :thumb:

It saves a ton of time and work. The flutes on the bit and tap by design channel the shavings outward anyway, so those steps are just helping 'em out.
 
I always though that 100% of the shavings NOT going into the turbo was better than 90% haha.

Are the runners thick enough for the egt probe? I have a DNP Ext Gate manifold aswell.

and i passed on drilling the runner, i didnt want to give it an excuse to crack.

i tried to mount it in the back of the collector, under the outlet for that runner, but it created bolt clearance issues..... You couldnt get the bolt in with the bung, LOL..

Its mounted in the 02 housing now. and before we get posts and posts of how that is stupid because you cant use everyone elses reference numbers because its not in the same location, YOU are stupid for depending on the readings of anothers car to tell if yours is running the correct temp. It still reads the exact same exhaust that the other way does, just a little cooler.
 
if you plan to hit the runner, Dont tap it. get a bung and weld it on.

some egt's come with the bung, I had to order mine from Slowboyracing.com it was like 20$

or you will reduce the integrity of the runner, put the probe tip on, or real close the the runner wall. ect ect.
 
suicidal2af said:
Which brings me to point number three: If this is a DNP tubular, you're going to have to weld a bung on. Not going to be enough material to tap for one. I don't have an effective or even safe method of welding under the engine bay, for obvious reasons.

Well, why don't we all just start quoting his post? ROFL

Anyway, this is exactly what I had to do. Like it's already been said, if it's still not installed.....just knock it out now. The thought of welding in/around the engine bay makes me a sick panda. :barf:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top