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TALON center tail CF overlay

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uscomposites, or even eBay. I think I bought this CF on eBay, but it was a while ago so I am not sure. But you can usually get great deals on large orders, single yards, or even scraps on eBay. Just make sure they are rolled, not folded, and make sure you are getting the kind you need. Plain weave is commonly found but plain weave won't match the 2x2 twill weave that most USDM CF parts are made from.

The epoxy resin I bought at a local surfboard shop. It is used here to build boards and is higher quality than ester resins. But you can get ester resins at the auto parts store, WalMart, or many other places.

Oh, and the weave being the opposite direction? I did that on purpose. Frugality. I would have had to use twice to CF to get the weave to lay the other way, and it sort of helps draw the eye to the TALON letters anyway.

This is the Ebayer I have been talking to about CF sheets and CF fabric. He has alot of different products in stock, and is located in Wausau, WI.

eBay Store - Elite Motoring: Fabrics and Cloths, Vacuum Infusion and Bagging, Epoxy and Polyester Resins

Could you share the product brand and description of the epoxy resin that you use?

I am interested in doing this for a few parts on my car for fun.

I would really appreciate any extra information or tips that you have learned from this experience!

Thanks,
 
I'm part of the SAE club at my college working on a high mileage car. Since weight is a factor, we've used a good bit of carbon fiber. Here's a few tips we've discovered:

1. Prep work is key. Make sure you sand it well, we've used 80 grit. Then clean it. You don't want any oils from your hands on it. It can make weak spots in the bonds. (We've tested this in a tension tester.)
2. If you aren't vacuum bagging, Put some epoxy on the surface first. It makes it easier to get all the air bubbles out of the back. It also helps hold it in place (like mentioned above.)
3. Start at a corner and work across. It helps in keeping air bubbles out.
4. Don't try bonding to aluminum. It's really hard to get a good bond. A reaction occurs between the aluminum and the carbon which weakens the bond.
5. If you want a part to have strength, lay the layers at 45* angles. This helps a TON.
6. If you have the option, vacuum bag the parts. They turn out MUCH better.
7. Wet BOTH sides of the carbon fiber down with resin, then squeegee the extra resin out after you lay the layer. You don't want too little resin, but you also don't want too much.
8. Wear gloves. Resin is a pain to get off your hands. Also, use plastic to cover your work surface. The epoxy will peal right off. If you get it on something, you're almost better letting it dry then picking it off.
9. Carbon fiber bonded pieces have decent tensile strength, but very limited shear strength.

I don't have too many tips to help appearance. Everything we've done is structural.
 
The secret to bonding to aluminum is to wrap the part with a layer or fiberglass first. This will keep the reaction from happening. We do this for our one of our trunks that uses core instead of the underside skeleton where the stock hinges bolt to. Also another thing I have noticed over the years is vacuum bagged parts tend to make the carbon look squished, especially if it's 2x2 twill, so if it's a overlay without any crazy bends or shapes where tape won't hold it down on the back I always suggest no vacuum if possible. Vacuum does help you if you have really crazy shapes or when you want to cut down weight. The only way that makes a part a bit lighter is infusion and imho that is my favorite way of making something out of a mold. There is almost no time limit to layup and when done right the part only uses the least amount of resin that is needed so no extra weight.
 
Well, I have been working on a few things, upgrading my skills, etc.

I just made my first female mold casted part.

Here it is:

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Making the mold was not too tough. I took some moldmaking silicon rubber and coated the emblem on the car, then put some chop mat fiberglass over that, then some epoxy over the 'glass and let it set.

Unfortunately, when I removed the mold, it had taken some of the cheap Maaco paint on my bumper with it. Even using mold release compound and wax. That stupid bumper needed to be repainted anyway.

The part I made from it is basically a layer of CF with the Talon emblem in raised resin. Getting the fiber into the sharp corners might be too difficult. I vacuum bagged this part and this still occured. After this I just trimmed in to put on the car. Which I will do after I get rid of that Maaco paint.

Oh, and another project I finally accomplished:

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I used the how-to I found on this sight. I love this steering wheel. Got a the wheel for $200 and don't regret it.
 

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Do you have photos of the mold/cf process? I pulled my Eagle Nose Badge, and just cut the shape out (just the main shape, not the eagle) and laid the CF Onto the nose. So its just a cf dot pretty much LOL... I also did my fuel door, that was easy.
 
Came out very well. This is some type of thing I would love to start doing. Keep up the good work.
 
Now THAT would be a lot of CF.

As it is, I used an entire yard making this splitter:

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Which didn't turn out perfect but still will be an effective splitter. Originally I wanted it to go all the way to the firewall, but that was turning out too complex and heavy, so this one just extends a little bit past the oil pan.
 

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excellent work guys I have seen a lot of Fail with people working with carbon fiber overlays, like trying cover a stock hood:cry:. But you did a seriously good job of this and it came out looking alot better than i was expecting when i clicked the link.
Tint those rear lights a little bit and your golden!
 
Nice work ;) We will be releasing our universal eclipse splitter soon.

Someone needs to release a 2G Talon splitter. No aftermarket splitter available looks right because of the shape of the Talon bumper. Hence why I made one myself. I might also make canards to fit on the natural lip of the bumper.
 
I also have cf hood and hatch i painted my center piece flat black with color matched letters but now i'm going to do the carbon fiber overlay. I always wounder if it would be possible to do the roof in carbon fiber. Now that would look sick.
 
Doing a roof overlay would be easy, albeit expensive. You would need 2 yards of 50" wide twill to cover it, and about a half gallon of resin. It would add several pounds. But since there are no really complex curves and convenient trim to cover up the edges, it would not be that hard.
 
I wanna do my roof badly. It is soo nasty looking. I was thinking of doing it before the new window goes in but I'm afraid of messing up and having a permenate crap roof.
 
I've never done a roof overlay on a dsm before but on the honda's I have done we took off all the molding. The drip rails made a nice place to hide the edges and gives it a very clean finished look. We also took off the rear window and front window molding to give it the same look. In the end it came out looking like it had a carbon roof. Very clean and I was happy with it.
 
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