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Synchromesh bad?

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JayRolla

15+ Year Contributor
5,629
34
Feb 23, 2006
Colorado Spring, Colorado
I was talking to my mechanic who builds tons of dsm tranny's anyways he told me not to put synchro shift in my tranny, because he has noticed that it wears down synchros. He said he uses only redline but not to put it in an old tranny because he has had times where the tranny wouldnt even shift afterwards. He says to use mobile synthetic 10w-30 motor oil and a lot of times it smooths out shifting especially in the early dsm trannys. He said he has rebuilt them and they always seem to be in better shape with the motor oil than synchro shift. Has anyone heard about using motor oil and have you heard about the redline messing up older trannys?

Im sorry I meant to say not to use synchromesh the pennzoil stuff. Not BG Synchroshift because it seems to work.
 
sounds like your trans mechanic has more experience than myself, but i swear by synchromesh, it has saved many of my trans. from grinding and hard shifting. I never heard of any "bad" feedback from using synchromesh
 
Oh so there is a difference in syncromesh and BG Synchroshift. Thats what I asked my mechanic is should I use pennzoil synchro and he said no. Anyways have you heard of using motor oil because he swears by it? Also he said not to use the redline in the older dsm trannys unless its rebuilt?
 
I dont know all about that. Synchroshift II made my trans shift like butter. I got it for free too from a BG rep along with some other oil additives. I love this stuff.

-Anton-
 
if your mechanic it telling you to put 5w-30 in your tranny then he needs to go...

first off synchroshift is very good on newer transmissions, olders ones i have seen it make the shifting harder.

you want to use somthing like a 70,95
 
I am just curious, but what company is this mechanic with. Reason being I live in the Springs too and most of the mechanics I have tried here have destroyed my Eclipse which is why I have done all the repairs since my engine blew myself. Thanks to a couple of shops here I have had to replace my engine, my turbo, my ECU, and some other parts that were just fine until the shops started screwing with my car.

Edit: My engine blew because of an import performance shop in town putting on the wrong oil filter so I lost all my oil on the highway at once and shot a bearing through the engine.
 
John Shepherd's suggestion on transmission fluid for your average mid-horsepower DSM: Penzoil Synchromesh.

And which Red Line fluid are you talking about? MTL? MT-90? Shockproof Lightweight? Heavyweight?

As for "shift like butter", keep in mind that lubricants are a trade-off between ease-of-engagement and protection; the notchier it shifts, the less it protects.

And finally, as for putting off-the-shelf motor oil in your transmission, SAE 10w30 is roughly equivilent to the GL-4 transmission fluid recommended as far as viscosity goes, but it's not quite the same thing, as it's engineering for different purposes. Red Line actually has a pretty good technical paper explaining some of this (and, of course, why you should buy their products).
 
I have a brand new Shep trans and I was told to mix 2 qts of Mobil1 75-90 synthetic and a qt of Redline Shock proof. Mix it all together and then pour it in the transfer case and trans.

I haven't tried it yet so I can't quite comment.

As far as the guy telling you Syncroshift is shit, well I'm not sure how must trust I'd have in that guy working on my car. It has cured TONS of people's problems.
 
I am just curious, but what company is this mechanic with. Reason being I live in the Springs too and most of the mechanics I have tried here have destroyed my Eclipse which is why I have done all the repairs since my engine blew myself. Thanks to a couple of shops here I have had to replace my engine, my turbo, my ECU, and some other parts that were just fine until the shops started screwing with my car.

Edit: My engine blew because of an import performance shop in town putting on the wrong oil filter so I lost all my oil on the highway at once and shot a bearing through the engine.

My mechanic runs his own DSM shop here. His name is Jack(Jacks Speed Shop). He has no advertisment just his good work is how he got his name around. If you know some people here in the springs im pretty sure you have heard of him. I would never go to a local import shop.

if your mechanic it telling you to put 5w-30 in your tranny then he needs to go...

first off synchroshift is very good on newer transmissions, olders ones i have seen it make the shifting harder.

you want to use somthing like a 70,95

He said to use 10w-30 and he does not need to go because he has built many 500+whp motors and has had 0 fail rate. Same with his transmissions which people have said where way better than there shep trannys and would never buy another another shep again. I just wanted to see if anyone has ever used motor oil or if they have ever heard of redline making there tranny shift heard. Also if you've heard penn. sychroshift to be bad on the tranny.
 
As far as the guy telling you Syncroshift is shit, well I'm not sure how must trust I'd have in that guy working on my car. It has cured TONS of people's problems.

I never said it wouldnt fix shifting problems just that he said it wears down tranny components.
 
I wanted to just give you a warning, but I have never heard of Jacks Speed Shop so I have no comment on how his shop is. I would however stay away from Doug's Japanese Automotive (formally D&H Specialists), Firestone, and the Dealership as far as repairs go. Everytime I took it to one of those places, it cost me thousands of unecessary dollars that I could have used to complete my car already. In Doug's defense, he wasn't around when his tech screwed up on the oil filter that blew my engine, but I did have other small problems and instances with them that made me never want to go back. It has been a heck of a lot easier using these forums and my own common sense to repair the car. Now the only thing I pay to have done are diagnostics I don't know how to do myself.
 
Yea ive never took my car to the dealership or anywhere else to do work. I do mostly all my own work. Jack is a great guy im surprised you never heard of him. If you ever see anyone driving a dsm here ask him about Jack. Almost everyone knows him here if you own a DSM. He's rebuilding me a motor with 2g pistons right now for about $1000. I pulled the motor, but hes great. He gave my brother a tranny with about 75000 miles and went out 15000 miles later and replaced it no questions asked for one with about 25000 miles and a galant first gear. He also mounted a 4" core intercooler with custom pipes and a j pipe all for $400. He stoped doing FMIC because he is to busy with motor rebuilds and trannys. If you ever need a tranny or some good work done let me know. He builds performance trannys with anything you want for a fraction of what shep will do it also people say they shift smoother. He quoted me a fully built stroker with eagle rods and je pistons for $2000. Who can beat that, I just wish I had the money for it.
 
JayRolla said:
Yea ive never took my car to the dealership or anywhere else to do work. I do mostly all my own work. Jack is a great guy im surprised you never heard of him. If you ever see anyone driving a dsm here ask him about Jack. Almost everyone knows him here if you own a DSM. He's rebuilding me a motor with 2g pistons right now for about $1000. I pulled the motor, but hes great. He gave my brother a tranny with about 75000 miles and went out 15000 miles later and replaced it no questions asked for one with about 25000 miles and a galant first gear. He also mounted a 4" core intercooler with custom pipes and a j pipe all for $400. He stoped doing FMIC because he is to busy with motor rebuilds and trannys. If you ever need a tranny or some good work done let me know. He builds performance trannys with anything you want for a fraction of what shep will do it also people say they shift smoother. He quoted me a fully built stroker with eagle rods and je pistons for $2000. Who can beat that, I just wish I had the money for it.
Cool, it's about time I find out about someone locally that knows what they are doing. I bought my motor rebuilt and installed it myself, no performance mods. Would have been nice though. I spent $2000 just on the rebuilt engine and the shipping alone and that was last January of 2005.
 
So he suggested using something along the lines of Mobile 1 full synthetic motor oil 10w-30 in both the trans and the transfercase? Did he tell you he did this in his 500whp motors cause I am lookin to make baout that much power and I'm curious if that is actualy what he uses. By the way I have 130k on my trans and my transfercase was rebuilt not to long ago.
 
I've never heard anything but bad things about using motor oil in a transmission. Its formulated for a completely different purpose.:notgood: Gear oil has to put up with some extreme abuse and shearing and has no oil pan to sit in and cool off. You need something formulated to withstand that.

I can't aruge with someone building 500hp cars, because I have yet to do that. But if he's so good then why isn't he nationally known like Shep. Stick with heavy weight gear oil, not ultra light motor oil. 10w-30 maybe have less resistance and friction, but it also won't protect as well.
 
So he suggested using something along the lines of Mobile 1 full synthetic motor oil 10w-30 in both the trans and the transfercase? Did he tell you he did this in his 500whp motors cause I am lookin to make baout that much power and I'm curious if that is actualy what he uses. By the way I have 130k on my trans and my transfercase was rebuilt not to long ago.

He said to use syntec 10w-30 in my tranny because it has almost 100,000 miles on it and the earlier trannys seem to love it. Also he said when he rebuilds them they tend to look in better shape then trannys without it. He said to use gear oil for the rear and transfer case. He said to usually use some type of Redline I dont know what type but not to use it on mine, could cause problems because its got some miles on it.

I've never heard anything but bad things about using motor oil in a transmission. Its formulated for a completely different purpose. Gear oil has to put up with some extreme abuse and shearing and has no oil pan to sit in and cool off. You need something formulated to withstand that.

I can't aruge with someone building 500hp cars, because I have yet to do that. But if he's so good then why isn't he nationally known like Shep. Stick with heavy weight gear oil, not ultra light motor oil. 10w-30 maybe have less resistance and friction, but it also won't protect as well.

It does make sense about it not being able to cool, but my brother put the motor oil in about 2 years ago and the tranny is over 100,000 miles, shifts good. I just wanted to see if any one else has done this and I guess not. Also he isnt a big known shop becuase he does not want to be. Him and his brother run it and make very good money. Hes not into talking about his work just doing good work and it shows. He used to have a forum on www.coloradoracing.net but since he got so busy they closed it because he never answered his email. I guess thats how he got known. Plus he's never built a car as fast as shep.
 
Just out of curiosity does anyone think the diffrence in alitutude would make a diffrence as most of us are at or around sea level while these guys are in colorado? I am very curios to see how that works out for you as I have a trans with some mils on it as well and if a 500whp car in colorado can handle it might be worth a try. If anyone is running something else with a high hp motor and a trans with descent miles feel free to say what your using I hear people saying they don't think the 10w-30 is a good idea but I don't hear what they're using and I am curious as well.
 
Just out of curiosity does anyone think the diffrence in alitutude would make a diffrence as most of us are at or around sea level while these guys are in colorado? I am very curios to see how that works out for you as I have a trans with some mils on it as well and if a 500whp car in colorado can handle it might be worth a try. If anyone is running something else with a high hp motor and a trans with descent miles feel free to say what your using I hear people saying they don't think the 10w-30 is a good idea but I don't hear what they're using and I am curious as well.

I do know that when you rebuild a motor that has been ran up here the whole time compared to a car at sea level the motor looked way better. But you do lose about 3psi of air pressure up here meaning less power. Also im sure no one used the motor oil on one of his high power motors.
 
I'm using syncroshift, just like 50% of the DSM community. It made a world of difference and completely stopped the reverse grind that I used to get when the tranny was really hot.
 
My experience is thus. My car shifted sorta badly when I got it, last spring. I changed to Red Line shockproof, & it would barely shift at all. Tried BG, it now shifts pretty good when its cold but when its warm it shifts great. :thumb: I may try R.L. MT 90 with a bit of shockproof next time. I do know that Acura reccomended 10w30 in my old 89 integra, don't really know how it works in a dsm
 
No way thanks man atleast someone heard about using motor oil, even if it wasn't a dsm. Thanks for telling me that you had problems with the redline. My mechanic said the same thing that my tranny wouldnt shift. Im pretty sure he told me not to use pennzoil synchromesh which is different than the BG Synchroshift im guessing right? Because everyone says that it is great. Thanks again your the only one who gave me some real answers on my question.
 
Whoa, don't read too much into the Redline thing, I should note; I used Red Line Shockproof alone, which isn't supposed to work anyway. I' ve read that MT90 works good. I've also read that adding 1/2 to 1 quart of Shockproof to Penzoil/BG/Redline works well also, hence my desire to try it myself.
 
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