The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Summer of set-backs finally progess

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Slowboy racing has several different types. And straighline specialties does too. Just take a look and see what you would want. They have them for the raido bezel or the vent bezel.

If you do buy the vent bezel, go to home depot and buy some foil tape and a small piece of cardboard. Cut the cardbard in the shape of the vent (on the inside and insert it there, then tape off the vent cover so the heat doesn't get to the back of the SAFC. It helps keep it alot cooler.

Oh and the bezel's run for about 55-60bucks.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Quick question.

My ecu was lost and I'm trying to find a replacement. We have an Avenger 2.0 aka 420a ecu here and the plugs have some what of a lip preventing my factory harnesses from fitting in them. If we were to smooth the lip down to plug the avenger ecu into my car would it be ligit? Please any answers are welcome.

Thanks in advance :thumb:
 
honestly every ECU is kinda different from year to year.

like the 95-96 ecu's are the same (I think)
97 Ecu has got something in it so that they can use howell's afx ecu, but no one else can.
98-99 I believe are the same as well.

So I dunno if its gonna work, or maybe ## using the wrong ecu for that year avenger. But be really careful, you can fry ecu's pretty easy.
 
95 ECU = EPROM ;) ...get one of them :thumb:

EDIT: don't mind me, I'm just partial to my 95 and it's little perks :p
 
w00t tuners is back up.

Anyways. Im not sure what year the avenger ecu is, I do know for a fact its a 97-99 though so hopefully it doesn't fry.

Wish me luck guys :sneaky:
 
Ok did some more research. According to www.2gnt.com they say that 1995 is unique. Nothing about 96. 1997 is unique and so is 1998, nothing about 1999. :confused: Uh so I am guessing 97-99 might be different? I don't understand because Howell's website advertises the AF/X ecu's in one generall category 97-99 manual ecu. So I don't know what to go from. The good thing is the computer was free and if it fries no cost. THe bad thing if it does is then I have to find another computer :(
 
95 and early 96's are the same. late 96's and 97's should be the same. 98 and 99 are identical.

The only reason I'm saying it might not work is because you have to shave off the fittings in order to plug it in makes me think it belongs to a different harness. Did the ecu out of the avenger come inside the engine bay or in the car?
 
ive bought alotta stuff from sbr and didnt notice the guage bezels ROFL thanks for the heads up!
 
BigRand said:
95 and early 96's are the same. late 96's and 97's should be the same. 98 and 99 are identical.

The only reason I'm saying it might not work is because you have to shave off the fittings in order to plug it in makes me think it belongs to a different harness. Did the ecu out of the avenger come inside the engine bay or in the car?


Rand-engine bay the car started fine.

The results are in. The plugs fit fine. The car needed jumped, then a couple sputters and my baby breathed fire. :thumb: I reved it up in neutral to about 4k and listened to the turbo spool. It sounded soooooooooo cool. No boost though? I am guessing because its a .57 trim it wouldnt hit boost at that low of an rpm in neutral. But yeah its going to the exhaust shop today after work. Then tomorow i should be able to taker er' home. BTW my BOV was opening without even being at 1 psi wtf? :rocks: :dsm: :thumb:
 
what he said^^^

the bovs opening in neutral with little to no boost is normal.. you cant build boost in nuetral. because you have no load..but if you hgad a supercharger.. LOL


take her for a spin and feel the boost..and tell how long it you kept smiling afterwards :)
 
Yeah I cant wait guys, I pick the car up in a few hours from the shop.

Oh, yah more pics
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Good news and Bad news.

Good news I got my car back and got a 3'' dp which is awesome. So now i have a 3'' turbo back. It sounded good I guess.

Now to the bad news. It doesnt run right surprise. The battery was dead the other day when we fired with no DP so we jumped it and it ran. Last night I picked the car Up poured coolant in it because there was non when he made the DP because he had to remove the rad hose. Also When i got to the car there was a batter booster on it He said it would not start w/out that. On top of that the car runs rediculously rich because of the big injectors and pump. The only way the car would stay on even with jumper cables on the terminals was if I kept my foot on the accelerator. I think that is just a bad battery correct me if I'm wrong. The car has not been wideband tuned yet. So it was running really rich. ANd i couldn't rev very fast and it would backfire. I don't even think I got one mile down the road driving very carefully. I was blowing oil out of the exhaust and engine bay. I think my XS power turbo seals suck and that I need an oil restrictor. I looked at the compressor inlet and I did not see any oil on the fins. So I had to tow it back to the original shop. My mechanic is going

Selmer guy if you used the same turbo did you need an oil restrictor on your feed?

Please help :(
 
no i didnt need a ristrictor. i used -4an ss braided line for the inlet.
i think without a adjustable regulator ie sfmu or afpr you are asking for trouble changing injectors out for bigger ones. i don't think the ecu can compinsate for injectors too much bigger than the sock ones. my 2 cents. good luck hope it runs riht soon.
 
Ahh some relief.

The battery is phucked definately. Because of this it reset the S-AFC and the 360cc's had nothing controlling them. The turbo no longer smokes. I don't think it was oil. At night its hard to tell what the color the smoke was. So I think it was just to much fuel going in the engine. The car was towed back to the shop and it runs better now. The car needs to be hooked up to a booster or any extra electrical stimulant even tapping the breaks turns the car off, so battery is very bad. I have never had any even similar issues before so its surprising for me. Also my spark plugs are fouled from the excess fuel and I will need to change them. Other than that it should be fine once they are replace.
 
The car will not start itself? When tapping the brakes the car dies? If that is the case it sounds to me like you need a new alternator. The battery is used to start the car, and to have lights and what not when the car is off. After the car is started power is generated by the alternator. If the alternator is bad the battery is running the car, which will drain it in no time, which is why the brakes kill the car. You should get that alternator checked :thumb: Good to hear that your problems are much smaller than you thought! Congrats!!
 
but if the batery is so old,it would do that too..put in a new battery,then go check the alternator (you cant test the alternator on a bad battery anyhow)
 
Updates

The battery did the trick. The car stays on now. The extra fuel fouled my spark plugs and the car has a rough idle. The car also needs a base tune with the wide band before it can drive. I also forgot to put water back in the rad. It was only runing for 10 min and my mechanic wondered why it wasn't getting hot. Yesterday we put some in and the temp stayed right in the middle where it should. But it was raining and I think I got water on the TB and it was making a squealing noise at idle that went came intermittenly and would go away after rev. But Ill keep everything updated.
 
More updates. The spark plugs were messed up but not the problem. That Avenger ECU must not work correctly. The car turns over but does not give power to one of my coils. The diagnostic tool says cylinders 1,4 are not firing. Which tells me that the ECU does not give power to my other Coil. In search of an 1997* Ecu mtx let me know if anyone wants to let go of one.
 
Nah $400 is too much.

But on the good note. I drove my car last night. w00t. Its finally done. I can get up to 7or8 psi in first gear but from second on up it stops at 5-6psi not sure why that is. Not complaining either. With stock internals 6psi is great and I am happy with it. I will save money and build this spring most likely and crank it up to 10-11 then. But I am soooooo happy boost is awesome and thanks for everyone that helped me out.

I have been checking for leaks and in the past 24hrs still have not seen any. I have only got on it for like 10 seconds at a time here and there just to be sure. Any thing else I should look at?

Sorry one last thing I am getting it wideband tuned today so Ill now just how rich I am running.

Chalk up another n/t-t success :rocks:
 
Are you putting like soapy water on your connections when testing for boost leaks?
 
Ecu is figured out I had that taken care of last week.

Ratchet sets really come in handy I have had a couple IC pipes pop off at boost.

Anyways new problem now :cry: My Oil return fitting in my pan is leaking a medium amount of oil and Im not sure if this is relevant or not but, In the past few days after I got my car wideband tuned, the car shuts off after a cold start unless I keep my feet on the accelerator and rev for like 20 seconds then its fine. This has happened like twice before in the past year then it goes away like after a few days. Thats one thing my car was running fine even know rich, then a few days ago it was running pig rich and burning black smoke out the exhaust and running crappy until boost. So I got the car wideband tuned and it was awesome. Then on saturday night i was messing around with an STi when I was at 6psi spiking at 8 and like I should I let the car idle for about 5 min just to be safe. I started driving again and the CEL started to flash but everything felt OK. At Idle it sounds different. Im not sure if its missing a cylinder or what. I am taking it to get fixed tonight but I would like to know about the cold start thing if possible.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top