STUMPED! really need help

[1Gina2G]

I just got finished doing a boost leak test, and it's good to go with boost. I'm really thinking there's some kind of crankcase problem, but I have no idea. I really need help on this one.

Since I've first got the motor running, (6 bolt bottom, 7 bolt top) the idle has been kind of high even though I timed the motor with a timing gun. For some reason after only letting the car sit there for 2 days, I tried to start it up and it will start up the first time, but it will die out when you try to engage the clutch, and after dieing a cupple times, the motor won't start up, it only turns over. When the motors idleing, it sounds kind of sluggish than how it has been. It's idleing around 650-850

But if I take the spark plugs out and take the valve cover off, and then try to start it with the valve cover off, it will work but I know you're not supposed to do that. Before doing this, I looked in the head for any oil or water that wasn't supposed to be there.

I'm really stumped because I didn't adjust anything like the screws on the throttle body or the cam angle sensor on the head, like I was told I should probably do, but I can't figure out what screws you are supposed to turn on the throttle body, as much as I've looked I've only seen a black screw next to the throttle cable.

I thought it would have had something to with the catchcan I installed, but I know I did it correctly, and I even put back the original hose to the valve cover/intake pipe back, with the same results.

The car will start up and move, it's just been idleing alot lower and acting more sluggish, and it has been dieing. It almost is acting like it's overheating, but I know it can't be with new water and radiator w/ fans (on) I'm just suspecting crankcase gases but I don't really understand how?

 

[jpmxrider489]

The biss screw on the tb. Its pointing almost diagnole. you can play with that. You can also do a compressions test. Are the plugs wet. If not then see if you can hear the fuel pump kick on. Its under the back seat. If it is then maybe its fuel pressure problem. If they are wet then maybe the plugs are bad. Try some ngk plugs and new wires. If your not getting spark you can check with a meter the power transister pack beside the coil pack. If you did all testing then maybe you got a bad batch of gas. That happend to me. Mine was hard to start. But I went through all the test just to find out I had to hold the gas to the floor to get more fuel. I dont know why these are so dang complicated. Is your car stock?

 

[1Gina2G]

The biss screw on the tb. Its pointing almost diagnole. you can play with that. You can also do a compressions test. Are the plugs wet. If not then see if you can hear the fuel pump kick on. Its under the back seat. If it is then maybe its fuel pressure problem. If they are wet then maybe the plugs are bad. Try some ngk plugs and new wires. If your not getting spark you can check with a meter the power transister pack beside the coil pack. If you did all testing then maybe you got a bad batch of gas. That happend to me. Mine was hard to start. But I went through all the test just to find out I had to hold the gas to the floor to get more fuel. I dont know why these are so dang complicated. Is your car stock?

I've only seen a screw right next to where the spring actualy turns, but it wasn't diagnole. I have yet to do a compression test but its a rebuilt block and head, and trans. I know the fuel pump kicks in, I have gone to it to open it up because I was trying to figure out how much gas was in there and it turned out my gas guage is broken, but the pump is still good. I drained out the whole tank recently with a seperate pump, and filled it up completley with 93 and some fuel cleaner. I deffinatley know the plugs can't be wet becuase i've had the hood and the top of the valve cover covered with towels, and these are NGK plugs and NGK wires both new matching set. Coil pack is in good condition and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner.

This car is mostly stock, its just a 92 6 bolt block machined to fit a 7 bolt stock head. Stock ecu, stock intake size, with 14b 6 bolt turbo, 3'' full exhaust, stock 2g intake manifold, stock 2g throttle body, aftermarket intercooler piping and front mount intercooler.

 

[SpeedMetal]

Are the coolant lines to the fiav connected? That can cause idle issues like the car dieing and poor idle.

 

[1Gina2G]

Are the coolant lines to the fiav connected? That can cause idle issues like the car dieing and poor idle.

not sure what the fiav is but nothing is leaking so I assume so

 

[nitroazz]

If the lines are capped or not present, they won't leak. The fiav is located on the throttle body iirc. Been awhile since I played on the intake side of my car.

 

[04bls84]

The FIAV or fast idle air valve is located at the bottom of the throttle body. It is controlled by heat from your coolant. I suggest that you pull the throttle body and eliminate this, along with the EGR crap and the rest if the emissions crap under the hood.

 

[gsxxer]

+1 for fiav block off. Fixed my nasty idle creep and the coolant leak I had there.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Follow the lines from your thermastat to your tb. The biss screw is on the throttle body on the top by the hoses. Since there is a 2g intake mani maybe the 4 vacume lines under it are loose. If you said your plugs are for sure not wet then your not getting fuel. You can stick a screw driver in the whole and see if your getting spark. If you are for sure getting spark then you can focus on the fuel since your plugs are not wet. There is a relay under the dash by the radio, maybe you can hear if that clicks on. Check your fuses. I cant think of other reasons your not getting fuel. Heres another idea. Take the line off thats on the fuel rail and turn the car over and see if it squirts. If it does then you know the fuel is getting that far. If its not squirting then maybe you have a cloged fuel filter. If it squirts maybe your injectors are bad. If it squirts bolt it back up and take the rail out and turn the car and see if it squirts out all the injectors. If not then maybe its your resistor I think thats what its called. Its a pain to change. Its under the intake mani. But before you switch it. Get a meter and see whats up.

 

[1Gina2G]

So the water hose from the thermostat to the throttle body, is called the FIAV.

I know it's connected since I attached it, so I should remove completley? Or just remove it to see if it's not clogged?

my friend did said I should remove the egr valve, and unpluged the hoses, but i cant remember if we also removed the egr valve from the intake manifold, do I need to get that plate?

 

[04bls84]

There is a tech article that explains how to block off the EGR and how to eliminate the FIAV as well. But back to the problem of it idling better when the valve cover is off. That is because when you take it off you creating a vacuum leak so it idles faster. My car did this for a while so I eliminated my EGR and a lot of the vacuum hoses and it went away. I just need to remove my FIAV and it will be good.

 

[bryanwheat]

Does the car run when you give it gas? Put the valve cover back on and quit messing with that. You problem isn't in there. There is something going on with the throttle body or something electronic.

 

[jpmxrider489]

The hose is not called the fiav. The bottom part of the throttle body is the fiav. Are you getting fuel? Is the problem you cant get it to start?

 

[1Gina2G]

The hose is not called the fiav. The bottom part of the throttle body is the fiav. Are you getting fuel? Is the problem you cant get it to start?

I'm really sorry for the confusion, but let me try to explain some more

The problem is that sometimes it's acting like it doesn't want to start but when it does start running now, it's sounds a little sluggish and idleing lower than before.

Sometimes it dies when i try to let off the clutch, not even stalling out.
Before, It was idleing pretty high, around 1100-1200 or so and when it was ideling then it didn't have any problems with randomly dieing.

I've taken off the gas line from the fuel rail and it's squirting gas but I have yet to take the injectors out to see if they're squirting (best way to do this?), next thing to check I guess.

 

[jpmxrider489]

When I checked I just let them squit in the bucket while someone cranked the car. Just take the rail out and crank it. If they do squirt then thats good news. Check the injectors first. Heres a link. Look at the pick. Thats the biss screw. Make sure you unplug the sinoid first under the battery I think.

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[Calan]

But if I take the spark plugs out and take the valve cover off, and then try to start it with the valve cover off, it will work but I know you're not supposed to do that. Before doing this, I looked in the head for any oil or water that wasn't supposed to be there.

Not sure what this would accomplish, other than a lot of oil being sprayed everywhere.

The car will start up and move, it's just been idleing alot lower and acting more sluggish, and it has been dieing. It almost is acting like it's overheating, but I know it can't be with new water and radiator w/ fans (on) I'm just suspecting crankcase gases but I don't really understand how?

First of all, you really need to fill out you profile with up-to-date vehicle information. Without that, we have no idea what we are dealing with.

Without having any information to work with, I would suggest starting with a leak-down test, if you have covered the basics like the BLT, checking the timing marks, verified that fuel flow is consistent, etc.

BTW - Fuel should not be "squirting" out of the fuel rail; it should be flowing steadily. And to check it, you want to pull the line after the pressure regulator, right before it goes back to the tank.