Stub Shaft Issue

[gofast63]

I have movement in my oil pump from the stub shaft, is that normal? I had an odd noise coming from the engine while it was running and I'm 95% sure its from the oil pump. Here is a couple of videos of the stub shaft and oil pump housing.


[ame=http://youtu.be/VWgT_m639iQ]Front case - YouTube[/ame]
[ame=http://youtu.be/P9wa0kwM2h8]Oil pump housing - YouTube[/ame]

 

[BogusSVO]

You need a new front case, looks like the timing belt was too tight and cocked the gears into the case.

 

[gofast63]

You need a new front case, looks like the timing belt was too tight and cocked the gears into the case.

Is it normal for the stub shaft to have any play? I had a balance shaft failure previously on this pump. While the engine was running you could tell somthing was unbalanced. I remember the shaft having play when I installed it. But I didn't really think anything of it.

 

[BogusSVO]

It should have a touch, just a couple thou worth.

The Rear BS galley in the back casting is wallered out, with how much movement the stubby shaft has, cased the gear to chew up the inside of the oil pump on the back casting.

 

[dsmreck]

the service limit is virtually nothing on the oil pump gears.

 

[untouchablecc]

Is it normal for the stub shaft to have any play? I had a balance shaft failure previously on this pump. While the engine was running you could tell somthing was unbalanced. I remember the shaft having play when I installed it. But I didn't really think anything of it.

A big steel rod and steel gears failing while spinning in an aluminum housing . The failing BS probably egged out the aluminum housing making it sping out of round. I would just get a new oil pump and new BSE or a used one that came off of a known engine. Stay away from topline pumps.

 

[gofast63]

the service limit is virtually nothing on the oil pump gears.

Yeah, after I got the main gear off you could tell it was totally fried. Today I'm starting to notice how hard its starting to get on finding parts for these cars.

A big steel and steel gears failing while spinning in an aluminum housing . The failing BS probably egged out the aluminum housing making it sping out of round. I would just get a new oil pump and new BSE or a used one that came off of a known engine. Stay away from topline pumps.

Yeah, I read about the Topline pumps a couple days ago. I would be sick to my stomach after a build and having that fail. The BS has been my original theory. It screwed up my block for sure. The odd thing is that engine always sounded normal. I rebuilt the engine because I wasn't satisfied with my compression numbers. I've found an OEM 2g oil pump from Summit Racing for $140. You know of any cheaper places. I perfer to stick with OEM.

 

[dsmreck]

the real issue i have is all the chunks had to go somewhere. if it were me i would do a full tear down and inspect everything and clean clean clean. It only takes one chunk to cause failure. hate to see a $200 oil pump and case go to waste

 

[untouchablecc]

Yeah, after I got the main gear off you could tell it was totally fried. Today I'm starting to notice how hard its starting to get on finding parts for these cars.



Yeah, I read about the Topline pumps a couple days ago. I would be sick to my stomach after a build and having that fail. The BS has been my original theory. It screwed up my block for sure. The odd thing is that engine always sounded normal. I rebuilt the engine because I wasn't satisfied with my compression numbers. I've found an OEM 2g oil pump from Summit Racing for $140. You know of any cheaper places. I perfer to stick with OEM.

Thats actually a really good price. Usually they are around 300 from the dealer with gears. I always ran the straight cut gears out of a 90 if I could, or buying new. If they say its oem (mitsu) I would go for it. Do not reuse your old gears. They may be ok but its just not worth it. Ive had oil pump issues in the past and purchased a new pump, gears, and BSE and didnt have an engine fail on me. I just changed the oil a few times. I would hate to see you tear an engine out if you didn't have too.

 

[gofast63]

the real issue i have is all the chunks had to go somewhere. if it were me i would do a full tear down and inspect everything and clean clean clean. It only takes one chunk to cause failure. hate to see a $200 oil pump and case go to waste

The flakes are extremely fine. I'll inspect the rod bearings and if they look good I'm not going to worry about it to much. The oil is definitely going to get changed out twice. Before I put the final oil in. I plan on priming the oil pump for awhile to help move along any metal particles out of the system.

Thats actually a really good price. Usually they are around 300 from the dealer with gears. I always ran the straight cut gears out of a 90 if I could, or buying new. If they say its oem (mitsu) I would go for it. Do not reuse your old gears. They may be ok but its just not worth it. Ive had oil pump issues in the past and purchased a new pump, gears, and BSE and didnt have an engine fail on me. I just changed the oil a few times. I would hate to see you tear an engine out if you didn't have too.

I agree with you 100%. I was thinking about reusing the stub shaft. But I'm not willing to risk it and plus its only a $12 part. I'm going to confirm that the pump comes with the gears tomorrow. How much of a pressure gain do you get with the straights? I was using helical gears

 

[dsmreck]

the crank bearings and lifters to me would be a concern

 

[farmer890]

I have a brand new front case, brand new OEM BSE kit and after I tightened the bolt for the stubby shaft, I had play similar to the video op posted. Thoughts?

 

[gofast63]

That's sucks. I bought a new 2g pump and Mazda stub shaft and had no to very little play.