streetable 2.3 stroker cams

[elyk]

Guys i currently have a 2.3l stroker with bc 280 cams and a gt35r daily driver. as much as i like the top end power, im thinking of swapping to a gt30r and more low end streetable cams with a nicer idle. valvetrain is Manley 1mm OS SS valves Manley Retainer and Springs. and i dont plan on reving past 7k even at the track.

iv searched but couldnt find a definitive answer. what would you guys recommend.

 

[delta448]

Has the head been ported any?

On a typical 2.3 stroker, a set of 272s should give you the better low/midrange you're looking for, but if the head has been ported to the point where the valves really needed to be a larger size, a smaller duration set like a 264/272 combo may yield better low end and midrange. The best bet would be to use the smallest grind available that was designed around a 100mm stroke engine.

The low end power is going to be hurt by your head's larger valves and especially if there's been considerable porting done. The key to low end power is keeping the intake air velocity as high as possible at the valve. A larger passage will slow velocity down unless there is a good tapered shape retained in the port. At the same time though, larger passages and valves will flow more air at high engine speeds, as it seems your head has already been specifically tailored to. You're at a slight low end disadvantage already due to starting with the 1G head's larger ports, the 2G head's smaller ports are generally considered to be a better design for low end and into the lower midrange area.

All things considered, I would recommend using a set of FPcam3's. I don't know if your Manley springs are compatible or not, might want to check with Robert or someone at FP to verify.

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FPCam3
Dual valve springs required. STDuals at 1.500-1.530" installed is required. The first camshaft designed with the 100mm stroke crankshaft in mind. Often referred to as the "square lobe", No valve to piston interference issues, and no retainer to guide interference issues. This is a drop in cam in the sense that no issues with geometry or interference exist. This cam produces very broad power bands in stroker engines, easily consuming all available airflow from 800cfm and larger turbochargers.

 

[talonballs]

I dont think the manley springs will work , you either need a dual valve spring setup or kiggle beehive set up to run those cams. I got the fp3x's in my motor from what i hear they are not too bad to dail frive on. Fp for the most part makes there parts around driveability

 

[andy4g63]

I don't know, what you are talking about...
I have 2.0L mototr, with turbo a little bigger than yours/HX-40/, BC 280's with BC springs and retainers, 1mm oversized SS- SI valves and unported 1G head and the freakin car is revving and pulling like a bike. Boost starts to build little above 3K. Aftr 3.5K pulls hard and I get full street boost of 23 PSI by 5K/20 PSI by 4800 RPM. And you have a 2.3 stroker and you complain about it??? Something is wrong someplace, cause I am extremely happy with my 2.0L and kind of the similar combo on turbo, cams valves and springs...

 

[elyk]

Has the head been ported any?

On a typical 2.3 stroker, a set of 272s should give you the better low/midrange you're looking for, but if the head has been ported to the point where the valves really needed to be a larger size, a smaller duration set like a 264/272 combo may yield better low end and midrange. The best bet would be to use the smallest grind available that was designed around a 100mm stroke engine.

The low end power is going to be hurt by your head's larger valves and especially if there's been considerable porting done. The key to low end power is keeping the intake air velocity as high as possible at the valve. A larger passage will slow velocity down unless there is a good tapered shape retained in the port. At the same time though, larger passages and valves will flow more air at high engine speeds, as it seems your head has already been specifically tailored to. You're at a slight low end disadvantage already due to starting with the 1G head's larger ports, the 2G head's smaller ports are generally considered to be a better design for low end and into the lower midrange area.

All things considered, I would recommend using a set of FPcam3's. I don't know if your Manley springs are compatible or not, might want to check with Robert or someone at FP to verify.

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thx for that reply delta. great info
sorry i now have a 97 talon, not a 90 anymore. its got a 6 bolt 1g head, magnus IM, tubular EM.
so fp3 cams are like 272/272? they idle nice? and what 272s or 264/272s would you recommend

I dont think the manley springs will work , you either need a dual valve spring setup or kiggle beehive set up to run those cams. I got the fp3x's in my motor from what i hear they are not too bad to dail frive on. Fp for the most part makes there parts around driveability

yeah your probably right with the valvetrain. i dont really want to upgrade if i dont have too. fp3x are out of the question, but i mayyyybe could pull off fp3s but i need more advice.

I don't know, what you are talking about...
I have 2.0L mototr, with turbo a little bigger than yours/HX-40/, BC 280's with BC springs and retainers, 1mm oversized SS- SI valves and unported 1G head and the freakin car is revving and pulling like a bike. Boost starts to build little above 3K. Aftr 3.5K pulls hard and I get full street boost of 23 PSI by 5K/20 PSI by 4800 RPM. And you have a 2.3 stroker and you complain about it??? Something is wrong someplace, cause I am extremely happy with my 2.0L and kind of the similar combo on turbo, cams valves and springs...

driving on the street im always around 2k-3k rpm. with people in the car its so under powered. i dont like driving high rpms.

screw it just put stock cams in. unless your gonna spend hours on the dyno adjusting your cam gears to get your engine timing right then there is no point in running bigger cams especially on the street. it all comes down to tuning. you have no low end becuase ## exhuast and intake valves are open at the same time(valve overlap) ## just blowing boost in the intake and right out the exhast its not getting compressed enough. the high peaky power is nice but only if your a drag car and even the guys that actually go fast ahve there engine timing tuned to get the best performance out of their camshafts. i bet it takes quite a fewe cranks to get it to start too right?

it does take a little extra cranking to start and some gas but thats not really an issue. stock cams i wouldnt consider. there are cams that idle nice with low end. fp2s are suppose to idle like stock. but i need more input.

thx guys

 

[91spoolin]

The fp3 cams work great in my setup. They have ramp profiles designed for the stroker motors. IMO the 272 or 280 are more for topend (high rpm) usage 7000+ something the stroker motor will not be seeing a lot of.

 

[DSM-sagacious]

Fp3's are the way to go. FP also informed me that the fp3 cams can be run on the stock valve train dispite what their website says. The fp3x's on the other hand are supposed to be a whole 'nother beast.

 

[elyk]

The fp3 cams work great in my setup. They have ramp profiles designed for the stroker motors. IMO the 272 or 280 are more for topend (high rpm) usage 7000+ something the stroker motor will not be seeing a lot of.

hows the low end idle? rough/medium/smooth. whats your idle speed. i think iv seen a video and they sounds very loopy at idle.

Fp3's are the way to go. FP also informed me that the fp3 cams can be run on the stock valve train dispite what their website says. The fp3x's on the other hand are supposed to be a whole 'nother beast.

thats awesome! thx for that info sagacious. now ill def consider the fp3s.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

driving on the street im always around 2k-3k rpm. with people in the car its so under powered. i dont like driving high rpms.

why would you spend the time building a stroker motor, running a 35r; a basic setup to run 600whp and close to that in torque, and not rev the car out or drive it to its extent? You may be seeking longevity of the parts you have but under powering it wont really contribute to that at all either.

If you're going to go with a smaller cam duration because it seems underpowered with people in the car at lower rpms, assuming you still have some lag and arent in boost when this happens, you might just want to run 264s at the very minimum and lean the crap out of it pre boost and/or add timing down low. Doesnt seem like your tune is perfect yet, so id start there before you start changing parts.

 

[elyk]

why would you spend the time building a stroker motor, running a 35r; a basic setup to run 600whp and close to that in torque, and not rev the car out or drive it to its extent? You may be seeking longevity of the parts you have but under powering it wont really contribute to that at all either.

If you're going to go with a smaller cam duration because it seems underpowered with people in the car at lower rpms, assuming you still have some lag and arent in boost when this happens, you might just want to run 264s at the very minimum and lean the crap out of it pre boost and/or add timing down low. Doesnt seem like your tune is perfect yet, so id start there before you start changing parts.

i bought the car how its is and im looking for more broad street/road race power. the tune is good. alot of dyno time. ill probably go with fp3s, if anyone has anything more i would like to hear it. is the fp3 cam what I AM looking for? good idle/broad power for the street.

 

[andy4g63]

Just curious -elyk...
At what RPM you get full boost on the GT35R ???/with 280's ???
I assume, you run somewhere in the neighborhood of 20ish PSI ???

 

[whitedawg]

Stroker engines are duration hungry due to the longer stroke and added displacement. Like my V8 friend says, you can't use a cam designed for 350 engine on a 383 stroker and expect the same results. I am using Kelford 272's but they have 226 degrees of duration at 1.0mm (.050 in) lift. Compare the duration at .050" lift to HKS 272's & BC 272's. I would say they would be an ideal selection for a 2.3 street car.

 

[talon_swift7834]

FPCam3
Dual valve springs recommended. The first camshaft designed with the 100mm stroke crankshaft in mind.

as taken from Forced Performances Website.

I personally have the FP2 cams and am very happy with them in my 2.0 application. They have a very slight lumpy idle if your idle is set around 800rpm, but just like Forced performance says they come alive on the top end. When i build my 2.4 I will most likely end up getting a set of FP3 Cams just because of how great the FP2 cams are.

 

[elyk]

Just curious -elyk...
At what RPM you get full boost on the GT35R ???/with 280's ???
I assume, you run somewhere in the neighborhood of 20ish PSI ???

around 4100rpm 25psi. ill run around 32 psi 94 oct + meth injection

 

[andy4g63]

I am sorry, but this is 4th gear, I assume ???

 

[elyk]

I am sorry, but this is 4th gear, I assume ???

yes 4th.

so i ordered fp3s. ill let everyone know how it goes. thx guys.

 

[webconnect]

screw it just put stock cams in. unless your gonna spend hours on the dyno adjusting your cam gears to get your engine timing right then there is no point in running bigger cams especially on the street. it all comes down to tuning. you have no low end becuase ## exhuast and intake valves are open at the same time(valve overlap) ## just blowing boost in the intake and right out the exhast its not getting compressed enough. the high peaky power is nice but only if your a drag car and even the guys that actually go fast ahve there engine timing tuned to get the best performance out of their camshafts. i bet it takes quite a fewe cranks to get it to start too right?

Lol that made me laugh

 

[HIGHPSI4]

I have the FP3X's on my bored 4G64. Love 'em. Spools my tiny 35r like a big 16G on a 2.0.

 

[andy4g63]

Thank you and good luck...