Strange rattle, 2G 4G63, 7-bolt (sound clip)

[7b2g4G63e1]

Hi Guys, I need some help. First post ever, sadly.

I´ve recently built a evo 1 engine(2g 4G63, 7-bolt) with the following specs:

Wiseco 85.5mm, 8.3:1.
Eagle h-profile rods.
Cometic headgasket
Balance shafts removed (by kitt)
All the belts are new, gaskets
Top Line oil pump
Clevite 77 bearings
ARP bolts (everywhere except rod)
ACT2900 with 6-puck sinter disc
NGK B8EGV spark plugs

The head was left standard.

Now, for my problem. On idle I hear a rattling sound every 4th of a second, sometimes randomly. When reving the car to 2-2500rpm the rattle gets louder. Now, I´ve searched the forums but it seems like it can be anything from a heatshield to big end bearings.

I´ve talked to some e1 gurus in nz and they dont think the sound is solid enough to be a big end bearing. I dont think its a lash adjuster either cause of the more random rattle on idle. The sparkplugs looked all ok. Will empty the oil later today but I dont think I will find anything. Also, will remove the rocker cover and see whats going on, what is there to look for ?

The sound sounds like its coming from behind the mainfold, but I did check and it all looked OK and the screws where tight. All the belts are OK aswell.

I have the soundclip here, so if you think you´ve hear this before, please tell me what it is, or what you think it is... The camera (or my cellphone is just infront of the engine.

Save target as...
www.evo1.se/alvinsjeatteprivata/rattle.wav

Any help is apriciated!

This is what the evo looks like:

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[andymoraitis]

First of all, congrats on building such a beautiful car. Now on to the rattle:

If it makes the noise around 2500-3000 RPM, I would suspect rod bearings, but before tearing everything apart, try a simple test.

With a friend revving the motor to the point at which the noise starts, carefully remove and replace your plugs wires one at a time. If the noise disappears, this points to a rod bearing issue since the load is being taken off of that cylinder. Dropping the pan will confirm it.

If the noise continues, it could be any of the following:

Separated Crank Pulley: I'm betting this is the problem and I hope it is. Often when these crack and separate, they go out of round and beat against the timing cover. Pull the splash guards and see if yours is wobbling or cracked.

Collapsed lifter: remove the valve cover, and see if you can press any of the lifters down with finger pressure. If so, the lifter needs to be replaced.

Bad Auto Tensioner: These will often rattle when they're gone. Pull the front cover and see if you can depress the tensioner by hand. Bad idler pulleys can also make similar sounds.

Excess slack in the timing belt: If the tensioner is bad and you have the upper timing cover on, the belt may be slapping the inside. Take it off and have a look.

Good luck and please let us know what you find,

Andy

P.S. While we're happy to have you here, there's a sister site to DSM Tuners called EVOTuners and I'm sure they'd be happy to have you as a member (http://www.evotuners.net)

 

[7b2g4G63e1]

First of all, congrats on building such a beautiful car. Now on to the rattle:

If it makes the noise around 2500-3000 RPM, I would suspect rod bearings, but before tearing everything apart, try a simple test.

With a friend revving the motor to the point at which the noise starts, carefully remove and replace your plugs wires one at a time. If the noise disappears, this points to a rod bearing issue since the load is being taken off of that cylinder. Dropping the pan will confirm it.

If the noise continues, it could be any of the following:

Separated Crank Pulley: I'm betting this is the problem and I hope it is. Often when these crack and separate, they go out of round and beat against the timing cover. Pull the splash guards and see if yours is wobbling or cracked.

Collapsed lifter: remove the valve cover, and see if you can press any of the lifters down with finger pressure. If so, the lifter needs to be replaced.

Bad Auto Tensioner: These will often rattle when they're gone. Pull the front cover and see if you can depress the tensioner by hand. Bad idler pulleys can also make similar sounds.

Excess slack in the timing belt: If the tensioner is bad and you have the upper timing cover on, the belt may be slapping the inside. Take it off and have a look.

Good luck and please let us know what you find,

Andy

P.S. While we're happy to have you here, there's a sister site to DSM Tuners called EVOTuners and I'm sure they'd be happy to have you as a member (http://www.evotuners.net)

Thanks for the comments and the fast reply Andy!

The pulleys and the tensioner was changed upon rebuild aswell. But, will check this out tomorrow just to be on the safe side of things.

The upper cambelt cover was removed, and the rattle is still there.

Engine has done 400 miles now since rebuild, will send some angry mails to clevite if the bearing is gone!

ps. Will check out the evotuners aswell, i think the early evo has more common things with 2g DSM then the evo

 

[7b2g4G63e1]

Hello all,

just wanted to give you guys a report back. Metal pices in oil, most of it stuck in the filter. 4th bearing spun(so far). Never ever use clevite 77 no matter what!

Will get back when I know more.

 

[Deadly BlaZe]

Saw a problem like this before, it was the timing belt tensioner.

 

[92awddsm]

Saw a problem like this before, it was the timing belt tensioner.

WTF Did you read his post?

Hello all,

just wanted to give you guys a report back. Metal pices in oil, most of it stuck in the filter. 4th bearing spun(so far). Never ever use clevite 77 no matter what!

Will get back when I know more.

 

[Raph]

i was going to ask if the cam caps were torqued down but i guess thats irrelevant now

hey 7b2g4g63e1 whereare you from? belgium?(they have red plates right?)

well if you are from belgium, maybe ill see you at the nurburgring/nordschleife or at the track in bitburg/trier

 

[7b2g4G63e1]

Sorry Raph, not from Belgium more Sweden. Although, will see you at nordschleife next year, and probably with a working engine!

It wasn´t the tensioner, tried everything Andy tipped me about without luck. So, will see tomorrow if new rods are needed (brand new eagle where purchased upon rebuild) a new crank is deffo on the buy list.

Are the eagle cranks any good? Bought my clevites from slowboy by the way and it was those with the nascar logo on them..(if it tells you guys anything).

 

[Raph]

off topic: and the slowboy shippment got to sweden swiftly? on topic

well,if i go out then only with friends driving awds too, my gst has silly torque steer (fwd)
when do you plan on doing a weekend at the nordschleife? spring summer?? let me know when,maybe we can meet up.. or ill chase down the evo and blow my horn and wave like a madman.. then youll know its me .

you can always find deals on evo parts from ebay.co.uk sure its more expensive,but the shipping is cheaper,and you get your stuff quicker .

 

[7b2g4G63e1]

off topic: and the slowboy shippment got to sweden swiftly? on topic

well,if i go out then only with friends driving awds too, my gst has silly torque steer (fwd)
when do you plan on doing a weekend at the nordschleife? spring summer?? let me know when,maybe we can meet up.. or ill chase down the evo and blow my horn and wave like a madman.. then youll know its me .

you can always find deals on evo parts from ebay.co.uk sure its more expensive,but the shipping is cheaper,and you get your stuff quicker .

Nah, not swiftly at all. 1 month late actully but thats another story. The parts sent where correct tho

Will be selling the evo and buying a R33 GTR. I am tierd of always repairing, spending money on it and not driving it!

 

[Raph]

r33 sweet!

some guys i just met have a r33 in thier club..hot as hell in white !

many brits come over here for weekend skyline meets at the nordschleife,they seem to know thier skylines because there fast out there.