Stock turbo blew

[bpk1337]

So pretty much what happened was I was driving (pushing it kind of hard) when then when I was shifting from 3 to 4th and my stock turbo blew. I plan on buying an MHI EVOIII 16g from either RRE or SBR but i have a few questions.

1. I'm assuming my turbo blew since it was the stock one and It had 122k+ miles on it, but what should I look for when taking it off just in case it didn't just blow because of old age? Reason being is I am afraid of my turbo going bad again after putting in a new one since I don't know exactly why it blew in the first place. Also, I do remember my car was smoking but only at idle a for few days before the turbo went. Which was probably a sign that I shouldn't have driven it hard.. but boys will be boys haha..

2. Are there any differences between RRE's MHI EVOIII 16g's turbo and SBR's? What about their install kits? I noticed that SBR's install kit is 100 dollars less. Is it everything I will need to swap turbos? or no? Thanks in advance.

 

[mindset]

Well how much boost were you running on the t25?
I know too much will definitely ruin it.


Extreme PSI Install Kit $160, I believe it's 40 bucks cheaper than SBR's? Not sure of difference though.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Extreme PSI 16G Install Kit : Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99

 

[Gamble97]

The evoIII 6g turbo is an evoIII 16g turbo. The only difference is if you decide to pay extra for port work or an 34mm flapper. The install kit varies from place to place.
I don't like playing with 16gs and 14bs, I hate those stupid J pipes.
The install kit from SBR is the only kit I know of that comes with everything needed. It is the only kit that includes the silicone coupler 90*.
If you get any other install kit, say FP then you will need to buy more parts and it will cost you more in the end.
My honest opinion for you.
FP Big t28. Drops right in. Has as much power as the 16g but will a lot less boost creep.
Forced Performance Turbochargers: DSM FP Big 28 Turbo
OR
The garrett one. I'm sure the FP one is far better though.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Garrett Big T28 Turbocharger: Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99

But figure by the time you get a 16g and a install kit you can get a t28 and save money. It has just as much potential and it's like the underdog. It looks stock.

 

[Gamble97]

Well how much boost were you running on the t25?
I know too much will definitely ruin it.


Extreme PSI Install Kit $160, I believe it's 40 bucks cheaper than SBR's? Not sure of difference though.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Extreme PSI 16G Install Kit : Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99

Look at the difference.

Most people.

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[chico904]

Pull the lower intercooler pipe, and check for oil. If that area was oily to begin with, unbolt your downpipe, stick your fingers in as far as you can into the o2 housing and see if there is oil there. Take intake off, and check for oil and shaftplay on the turbo.

 

[bpk1337]

Well how much boost were you running on the t25?
I know too much will definitely ruin it.


Extreme PSI Install Kit $160, I believe it's 40 bucks cheaper than SBR's? Not sure of difference though.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Extreme PSI 16G Install Kit : Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99

I didn't up the boost at all actually. Everything is pretty much stock except for the things in my profile.

 

[chico904]

Check the things I suggested earlier. What makes you think your turbo blew?

 

[bpk1337]

Pull the lower intercooler pipe, and check for oil. If that area was oily to begin with, unbolt your downpipe, stick your fingers in as far as you can into the o2 housing and see if there is oil there. Take intake off, and check for oil and shaftplay on the turbo.

I havn't gotten a chance to pull the lower ic pipe or my downpipe. I did take the intake off and there is shaft play. i didnt find oil in there but there was a little layer of oil in my intake but thats normal right? Ill check the lower ic pipe and the o2 housing sometime later this week

 

[Gamble97]

Your going to need a boost controller, and a fuel pump. I hope you have a boost gauge too.

 

[Gamble97]

I havn't gotten a chance to pull the lower ic pipe or my downpipe. I did take the intake off and there is shaft play. i didnt find oil in there but there was a little layer of oil in my intake but thats normal right? Ill check the lower ic pipe and the o2 housing sometime later this week

some shaft play is normal.

 

[bpk1337]

Check the things I suggested earlier. What makes you think your turbo blew?

Well after i saw all the smoke come out of my exhaust and a grinding noise (which i was told was my bearings) and huge loss of power i had it towed to a shop and they used a Stethoscope and told me my turbo was blown. They told me they dont know if anything else is wrong with the car and that they dont know if there will still be a problem after I get a new turbo.

 

[bpk1337]

Your going to need a boost controller, and a fuel pump. I hope you have a boost gauge too.

Thanks

 

[bpk1337]

Okay, I removed the stock turbo last night. When i pulled the lower intercooler pipe a lot of oil poured out like crazy. There was oil in my down pipe and in my o2 housing as well. What does that mean exactly, and why do u guys think my stock turbo blew? If these questions are noob I'm sorry but I'm still learning I took a few pics of the turbo. It was in pretty bad shape.

<a href="http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/bpk1337/?action=view&current=Turbo004Small.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/bpk1337/Turbo004Small.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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[jrohner]

Your going to need a boost controller, and a fuel pump. I hope you have a boost gauge too.

He also won't NEED a fuel pump unless he already has mods that would make the fuel pump not able to keep up; don't really NEED a boost controller either.

 

[Littlebeeper]

if he gets anything other than a stock turbo i would get a boost controller. i put a 14b in my 1G FWD Auto and it overboosts. it shouldn't but it does. i had a Evo 16G in my 1G AWD and it would shoot past 20PSI at 3/4 to full throttle. it wouldn't hurt, its cheap insurance for a manual one and he will need it sooner or later anyway.

 

[JusMX141]

Okay, I removed the stock turbo last night. When i pulled the lower intercooler pipe a lot of oil poured out like crazy. There was oil in my down pipe and in my o2 housing as well. What does that mean exactly, and why do u guys think my stock turbo blew? If these questions are noob I'm sorry but I'm still learning I took a few pics of the turbo. It was in pretty bad shape.

It blew because it's a T25- you did absolutely nothing wrong. They're horribly undersized and overworked on our cars, not to mention their poor thrust plate design. Yours is just another one for the scrap pile.

If you're planning on keeping your car somewhat stock, I'd recommend the Small 16G over the Evo III. It offers a quicker spool while generating nearly the same airflow as a regular Big 16G because it's rotating at a faster RPM. The Evo III 16G will outspool and outflow the Big 16G, but the Small 16G will outspool the Evo III. Another key point is the Small 16G works better with your stock fuel system, which is a plus for most DSMers who don't have fuel system upgrades. If you buy an Evo III, you won't be able to run over 10-12psi or you'll overrun your stock fuel system, which is way under the Evo III's efficiency range. Your T25 at 15psi would feel faster than an Evo III at 10psi.

Another gimmick / waste of money is the "2G install kit". The only parts out of that kit you'll need are the j-pipe (compressor outlet pipe) and some sort of oil supply....whether it be a 1G oil line (to the head) or a braided stainless line that attaches to your filter housing. Your stock 2G coolant lines and banjo bolts will work fine on an MHI turbo, and you can easily slot the two upper holes on your oil drain toward the center slightly to fit the oil drain flange on the 16G. I think the 2G oil drains are better, actually....they don't break at the flex like a 1G drain.

I have a pile of turbos at my shop if you're looking for a cheap replacement to get you back on the road....all are rebuilt before they ever leave the shop, and come with a 30-day warranty to cover parts and labor. PM me if you're interested.

 

[Falcon55]

I have a pile of turbos at my shop if you're looking for a cheap replacement to get you back on the road....all are rebuilt before they ever leave the shop, and come with a 30-day warranty to cover parts and labor. PM me if you're interested.

I'll take a look at my turbo sometime soon when my mechanic swaps my motor (ya know, rod bearing wear, rod knocking motor). If my current turbo is damaged, you can ship me a replacement t-25 for cheap, which is guranteed to work correctly, right?

I may be interested if my turbo is damaged, even though I doubt my turbo is damaged, but just in case, ya know.

EDIT: Also do you require us to send in the old turbo, to recycle your inventory?

 

[JusMX141]

Honestly, I don't play with T25's much. If I get one in as a rebuildable core, I'll rebuild it and put it on the shelf or sell it on eBay to make a Honda guy's day....but they don't have much place for DSMers. It's actually hard to find a good rebuildable T25 core that doesn't have wheel damage- check out the O.P.'s photos to see why.

I could pull yours down and rebuild it, which would guarantee it will work just as good as a new one.

 

[Falcon55]

Honestly, I don't play with T25's much. If I get one in as a rebuildable core, I'll rebuild it and put it on the shelf or sell it on eBay to make a Honda guy's day....but they don't have much place for DSMers. It's actually hard to find a good rebuildable T25 core that doesn't have wheel damage- check out the O.P.'s photos to see why.

I could pull yours down and rebuild it, which would guarantee it will work just as good as a new one.

Oh cool, but will it be cheaper to pull mine down and rebuild it (that's if it has damage, were not sure yet until I check it out) than just replacing my turbo for a rebuilt one?

 

[JusMX141]

Unless it has damaged wheels, yours would be a fine rebuildable core. If your wheels are damaged or if you're looking to upgrade, that would prompt the purchase of another turbo.

 

[sirspoolalot]

i might have a similar problem. I'm looking into a 92 TSI and it's all stock except a turbo xs BOV and when the car first starts up, the turbo smokes for like 1 second. then stops. my friend says it's probably just a gasket. but is that something i should be worried about? the car has 170k on it.

 

[JusMX141]

170k on a daily-driven 14B isn't bad at all. It's probably totally coked with oil, rendering the turbine seal useless....which is where your smoke is coming from. Nothing a replacement turbo or a rebuild on your current one wouldn't fit.

There's always the possibility the smoke is completely unrelated to the turbo- valve seals become hard as bricks with that type of excessive mileage.

 

[sirspoolalot]

oh ok. sounds good. should i take it out and check for shaft play?

 

[JusMX141]

A leaking turbine seal doesn't always denote shaft play. Sometimes burnt oil will clog the turbine seal groove and ruin the seal's effectiveness.

A leaky turbine seal will almost always make the wheel appear "wet", but you have to remove the o2 housing and peer into the turbine housing to see the wheel.

Here's an example of a turbine wheel's appearance with a leaky turbine seal:

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[sirspoolalot]

ok. i'll take a look at it later this week when i'm off work.