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TSG59_Steve

15+ Year Contributor
717
2
Jun 27, 2006
Dunlap, Illinois
I don't have any idea what it could be. Car just stumbled and died and hasn't started since. It just cranks and cranks and cranks.

It doesn't have any spark.

Tried:
power transistor
coilpack
CAS
checked ECU for bad caps
checked fuses
checked for unplugged plugs
new spark plugs

I'm picking up a multimeter tomorrow.
 
Check profile for mod list. I've got a 6 bolt. No crank sensor.

No the timing belt isn't broke. I'm getting power to everything and it's cranking so for some reason I doubt it's the ground. The ground is definitely connected, but it's kinda beat up around where it meets the firewall.

Any other ideas?
 
have you done anything to the car in modifications in the last year or so?
The MPI relay plays a huge factor in cutting off spark. I had one neckbraking one when the fuel pump's power wire inside was touching ground, causing the relay to cut off spark.
 
yea i would definetly try another ecu . We just did a swap in a friends 97 awd talon and checked spark, fuel, grounds, everything, would not start, changed the ecu and started right up
 
Since I assume it used to run ok and you've TESTED (for 2g but may help: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/pro...art-no-fuel-prime-no-spark.html#post151265626) all the components listed in post #1 and it stopped so suddenly, I'd say a wire broke or is not making contact in a connector. Start checking wire continuities and voltages. Do you have +12V at the coil?

Well, I did go by that. But instead I just replaced everything because I've got spare parts and a parts car. I'm not too good with electronics stuff. But I just bought a multimeter. So hopefully you can help me with testing the voltages. I'm sure it's not hard, just something I haven't done.

Is this the car with DSMLink? Can you connect and get a log while your trying to start it?

Never been able to connect unless the car was running. Even before it died on me. I think it might be the usb cable.

have you done anything to the car in modifications in the last year or so?
The MPI relay plays a huge factor in cutting off spark. I had one neckbraking one when the fuel pump's power wire inside was touching ground, causing the relay to cut off spark.

Everything was done in the last year.

I think you should try another ECU. Even if there are no signs of leaky caps, they could still be leaking - directly underneath them. Crack open that ecu and examine it futher. Or swap it with another.

I plan on swapping the ECU when I get out of school tonight.

Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it.

-Steve
 
Here's some mods that might be needed info:
6 bolt - EVO III 16g
DSMlink
Accel 8.5 mm spark plug wires
NGK BRP6ES spark plugs (Gapped .028)
Just swapped the plugs from 7ES'

Fuel:
FIC 850cc injectors
Re-wired Walboro 190lph fuel pump

Edit: Here's the full most recent list - 1995 Eclipse GS-T - Steve’s Photo Gallery
 
if you have a 6-bolt swap, then you do have a Crank sensor. Although it may not be a seperate sensor, you do have one. The 1gen CAS functions as both the CAS and CPS as one, unlike the 2g motors which have the CPS and CAS seperate. Im going to bet that your CAS is shot. If the ecu isnt receiving a crank signal from the CAS, than you will have no spark, therefore your car will crank and crank and crank, but never start. I'd say test the CAS, and my money is going to be that it's that. let us know
 
if you have a 6-bolt swap, then you do have a Crank sensor. Although it may not be a seperate sensor, you do have one. The 1gen CAS functions as both the CAS and CPS as one, unlike the 2g motors which have the CPS and CAS seperate. Im going to bet that your CAS is shot. If the ecu isnt receiving a crank signal from the CAS, than you will have no spark, therefore your car will crank and crank and crank, but never start. I'd say test the CAS, and my money is going to be that it's that. let us know

Okay, I'm not going to argue with you.

I tried replacing the CAS already, still wouldn't start.
 
Took the rest of the day off to work on the car. It's freezing outside though so I'm take a break right now. But I got the ECU out and I can't see any visible damage. There is some discoloration along the edges and under the board but I can't tell if it's just the coating or what. I took a picture of it incase someone wants to see it but I think it's probably normal.

So my next step is going to be swapping the 850's out and putting the 450's back in. Then I'll put my stock ECU in and see what happens.

One thing I noticed is that my battery keeps dying. I have to recharge it everytime I go to work on the car. I don't know if that's because it's been sitting or what... It's an optima red top in case that matters.
 
So my next step is going to be swapping the 850's out and putting the 450's back in. Then I'll put my stock ECU in and see what happens.

One thing I noticed is that my battery keeps dying. I have to recharge it everytime I go to work on the car. I don't know if that's because it's been sitting or what... It's an optima red top in case that matters.
If you're not getting spark stay working on that - the injectors have nothing to do with not getting spark so leave them alone for now. The only things involved in producing spark are the CAS, ECU, PT, coils, plugs, battery, fuses, and wiring between all this.

If your battery is draining it may be weak or you may have a short. Either of these could also cause no spark. Measure the battery voltage first by itself, then with just headlights on, then with just key on, and then while you are cranking to see if you have enough power there. To find a short or power drain: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-partial-short-battery-drain.html#post1496998
 
I can't mess with this thing anymore. It's too cold and frustrating. I'm taking it to RevHard. I'll let you know what they figure out.
 
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